Canyon Angler
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Don't know about saws specifically, but if you use Loctite (or any other lubricant) on the threads, the rule of thumb is to back off the torque spec by 20%.
Head bolts loose?
- Thread starter Okie294life
- Start date
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I found out when I went to the stihl shop to get a new torx screw & base gasket for my 044 when they looked up the specific screws for it, the gasket blew because one of the cylinder screws broke of its own accord, I got 4 new ones, some of the ones used on the cylinder were the wrong grade from somewhere else on the saw.
So what do you guys think Loctite or no? Assuming the head bolts are correct and torqued correctly. I’m a big nerd so I want to do everything I can to keep that head from coming off or backing the bolts out.
No need for it, if you have a torque wrench & use clean dry OEM bolts & a gasket...
If you do get nerdy & use the thread locker, let it cure/set overnight.
If you do get nerdy & use the thread locker, let it cure/set overnight.
I think I am going to need out
I think I am going to nerd out with blue loctite. If you are saying 80 inch lbs, and someone else is saying 20% then 65 inch lbs. with blue?
No, 80 is fine with Loctite 242.
I just did a Super 045 & an 045 plain Jane top ends the same way, using Loctite 242 & the factory torque spec.
Same for the four muffler bolts, but used red Loctite on those.
We’re not talking 65 ft-# V8 head bolts here.
I went at it, it may be this torque wrench but it “starts” at 120 inch lbs. I backed it off a couple rolls to where 80 should have been and gave up. I got it tight as hell with the torque wrench but it never popped. Felt like I was going to strip the case out or break the bit...my main concern. So I quit.
You should use a smaller torque wrench. Torque wrenches are not accurate at the ends of their range, let alone outside their range. The Harbor Fright click types are accurate enough for home use and they make a small 1/4" drive one.
Get the torque spec from an official Stihl publication.
I've built a number of two stroke engines and never use loctite on the cylinder (or head) nuts/bolts. If they're torqued properly they don't need loctite. Check after a couple heat cycles.
Get the torque spec from an official Stihl publication.
I've built a number of two stroke engines and never use loctite on the cylinder (or head) nuts/bolts. If they're torqued properly they don't need loctite. Check after a couple heat cycles.
I got the little one from autozone the needle gauge 1/4”. Good thing I did because I think these may have been way over torqued. We shall see how it goes tomorrow once all this stuff has had time to set up and cure out.
I think I may have messed this up started the saw it won’t idle worth a crap and it wants to scream when I give it gas. What’s the correct way to apply the sealer and torque the cylinder? Maybe when it was overtorqued it squeezed out all the goodness between the cylinder and case?
You need to get a Mityvac or some sort of pressure/vac tester cobbled up & that case tested for air leaks.
There's no way of knowing if that cylinder base is leaking, or if that is even the reason that it idles poorly & screams.
Sounds more like a carb issue now.
There's no way of knowing if that cylinder base is leaking, or if that is even the reason that it idles poorly & screams.
Sounds more like a carb issue now.
