Water Heater Drain Pan Drain completely cloged

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Replace that drain valve with a straight 3/4 ball valve so you can get access THROUGH the valve.
With both top shut offs closed and nothing else open to air water will come out of the heater so slowly you can do an element, drain valve or T&P valve replacement without draining the heater. ;^)
Milkstone remover found at the farm store is a VERY effective lime dissolver.
I'll do that tomorrow and check out Milkstone remover.
I have some phosphoric acid laying around for de-rusting tools, but I also have the 9% vinegar. I'm hesitant to use anything stronger as it might cause trouble with the lining in the water heater.
 
Most modern water heaters are 'glass' lined. You won't hurt it any more than the lime scale is...

Interesting, I was wondering what they used for the liner. Regardless, there are still all the pipes valves and fittings. We'll see, I finally got the thing drained and tomorrow I can get a ball valve for it
 
All the box stores have them. You want a full port WOG valve (Water-Oil-Gas) with a stainless steel ball. Brand don't matter.

Yeah I got one this morning and installed it. Now I need to figure out how to unclog the drain pan drain. Pneumatic pressure has it completely clogged, but I've now determined the clog is beyond where it makes a 90° turn downwards. If it's mud, stagnant water should dissolve it.

For some stupid ****-for-brains reason I didn't buy a drain snake even though I was looking at one. Now I regret it. I've only ever once regretted the purchase of a good tool, but all too often I've regretted not purchasing a good tool.
 
there are water heaters that claim they have a swirl feature that is supposed to keep the sediment from sitting in the bottom, I guess as you use the hot water is swirls the bottom keeping some of the sediment suspended in water allowing it to be flushed out threw the faucets. I have a Rudd and it seems to work better than not having that feature, as like the old water heater that got replaced (GE). but I still drain off a coupla gallons monthly and check for solids.
 
I don't like any of this.

The drain snake is properly stuck. Tried turning it in reverse and forward and reverse, but eventually it got kinked up and broke at the spinner guy. Now I have this piece of steel wire sticking out of the pipe about 3 feet, but still can't do anything with it; about 15 feet is still in the pipe.

On the bright side: I think I found the outlet and it *might* be a straight shot to the end. It's on the whole other side of the house which makes no sense (the drain pipe crossing 3/4 of the house. It might be easier to clear the clog and go from the other end with another drain snake.

I'm counting my blessings I learned this lesson on an unimportant drain that didn't work anyway.
 
Our water is not too hard, but I have occasionally drained off some sediment from the bottom of the tank. Never replaced an anode. Not sure if it's true but I always figured the chance of something going wrong like some threads stripping or something breaking was high enough that I was better off leaving it alone and waiting until it failed. I'm usually a big preventative maintenance type of person but sometimes I worry about the unintended consequences. I suppose if I was disciplined enough to really stay on top of it there would be less chance of things seizing.

Good luck on getting the snake out! Sounds like the pipes are not exposed so that's a bummer.
 
Hallelujah. HALLELUJAH! I got it sorted.

I was wrong about the drain pipe exit, it was sitting exactly where it should have been, just the grass had completely covered it.

The drain snake had hit the root system so hard it was basically impossible to get out. I had convinced myself it had twisted itself into a knot, was trying all sorts of insane **** with vice pliers and whatnot, it turns out that was completely unnecessary.

Once the water heater was flushing cleanly I used the hose shoved it up the outside drain pipe. Turned the water on full blast, and to my amazement, the water started coming out into the water heater basin; The clog was clear!

Once I managed that I could pull the drain snake out.

Beware anyone using a drain snake, it's not a trivial matter to use one of these, and if you **** up, you can be in for one HELL of a rude awakening. It takes skill to use one properly, and a good plumber will have that skill and know what to do. Not saying don't use it, just don't be an idiot and stick it on a drill at full speed thinking it'll just do its magic.

Our water is not too hard, but I have occasionally drained off some sediment from the bottom of the tank. Never replaced an anode. Not sure if it's true but I always figured the chance of something going wrong like some threads stripping or something breaking was high enough that I was better off leaving it alone and waiting until it failed. I'm usually a big preventative maintenance type of person but sometimes I worry about the unintended consequences. I suppose if I was disciplined enough to really stay on top of it there would be less chance of things seizing.
I get that line of thinking, but I've learned it's never a good idea to get intimidated by a job. Dig in hard, go deep, you'll figure it out along the way, and then you'll get it sorted how you like it.



ALL of this said... I think my water heater might have a leak in it, and it's even possible I caused it. Obviously I hope not... but I'll have to investigate.
 
I get that line of thinking, but I've learned it's never a good idea to get intimidated by a job. Dig in hard, go deep, you'll figure it out along the way, and then you'll get it sorted how you like it.
I get it, I've charged right into stuff and had it work out great, and I've charged right into stuff and made a bigger mess. As I get older, and especially with plumbing in critical applications, I have become more cautious on what I tackle. Maybe being more cautious is the wrong word, but my calculus has changed so that I plan, or am prepared, for the worst case scenario and if I think I can deal with it or tackle it I go ahead. It's not always PVC, you can be in a 2' crawlspace with a dirt floor and find the cast-iron pipe with a non obtainable geometry joint that was only held together with wax from a toilet flange going into a crushed lead pipe under a space too narrow to crawl under. :)
 

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