How am I doing with this chain...

[hearnoevil]

Any advice? new saw and I want the chain as sharp as i can get it. Thanks

 

[DSW]

Looks alright from what I can see. The picture doesn't focus on the top plate too much, don't forget that top plate plate is very important. Also, it definitely looks new but as it gets older to keep that gullet filed out.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

The rakers will need to be adjusted also. What are you cutting? Looks like round filed 3/8 chisel. The chisel does not work well out here in the south west where humidity gets below 20% unless the wood is pretty green. Thanks

 

[old guy]

That looks pretty good, however if you click on the picks to enlarge them you will see the right hand tooth in the top pic does not come to a point at the corner, the file is too low.
Enlarging the lower pic shows a curve in the top plate edge which means your'e rocking the file. It all takes time to learn.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

When hand filling I would always get too low, and the cutting edge would be too thin to hold an edge. For years I used a Grandberg jig. Now I use Stills three in one file holder and have been very happy with it. I use it with the saw mounted in a bench vise. Next time I'll have to take pictures and enlarge them for a better look. Something white behind the tooth helps show that edge. Great idea hearnoevil.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Old Guy is right if you take a close look at them. It is likely that you are rocking your file a bit causing some curve to the cutters. Yes it does take some practice and time to get a perfect routine. My approach is a three part for each cutter. The first part is to line up my file to the desired angle, 60 or less for a aggressive bite. More than 60 for a very hard wood. The biggest change might be 10 degrees variation. Just say 60 degrees for now. Then file towards the pointed end until there is a noticeable point. Most of the time the pointed end is rounded just through normal wear and the top part of the cutter is often nicked a little. Then with the file in the gullet area a gentle amount of pressure up and away making sure that the top part of the cutter is not blunt, but at least 45 degrees to the top surface. As this last step is taking place take note that the angle is staying consistent. The raker adjustment is a process that can be most accurately done after the cutters are already done, but messing up cutters is less likely if it is done beforehand and can only be guessed at since you do not know exactly how much material will be taken off. It is often pointed out that a sharp section of chain can be a good guide to compare to as you get finished. Most often this takes takes two or three stokes at the most. Thanks

 

[hearnoevil]

its a new chain, cutting green spruce.
I'll check the file.

So I'm pushing the file down on the handle side when I'm doing it? I should be keeping it more level??

Thanks I'll try again see what you think once I dull it.

 

[old guy]

What I meant by rocking is, instead of pushing the file in a straight line it is turning slightly horizontally producing the curved top plate.
That right side cutter in the top pic actually looks like too small a file was used but I see no evidence of that on the rest of the chain.
I went to the Husqvarna roller guide a few years ago & still use it.

 

[coryj]

The picture is a little out of focus and appears cut-off, but from the bottom of the label on the neck of the bottle it appears to be bud light. I'm not sure what that has to do with a new saw or getting the chain sharp though.

 

[old guy]

The picture is a little out of focus and appears cut-off, but from the bottom of the label on the neck of the bottle it appears to be bud light. I'm not sure what that has to do with a new saw or getting the chain sharp though.

?

 

[aokpops]

I need to show the line the bottom of the file should follow . A carlton fileoplate or I think a roller guide would keep the file at the right height . From the left side I can see your just starting to rise from the line staying on this path the chain will become slop, get to low the chain has to much hook . I never did a free hand file sharping with much luck I seen people that could, well just one . Just saying not a crime to use a good tool . I just use the dermal file now .

 

[turnkey4099]

I use a bar mount file guide - sets all the angles and depth. File, usually 5 strokes if it only needs a touch-up, advance, file, advance, don't need to watch anything except how the file is cutting. About 10 min per 20" chain and that includes mounting saw in vice and setting up the file jig. Main trick to a sharp chain is to throw away a file when it quits cutting. Took me years to learn that.

 

[hearnoevil]

Ok thanks I got the guide.. this saw cuts.. wasn't really happy with the way i did it this time.. seems I was off a bit.. but it still cut

before

And After

And yes bud light in the picture again...I enjoy relaxing with a beer cleaning happening my saw after I'm finished.

 

[coryj]

I was just having some fun with the bud light comment, maybe it needed a smiley face.

This load was sponsored in part by PBR



And this one was fueled by Bud light.



The chain looks good. Buying a guide made a big difference in how sharp I could get a chain and how long it stayed sharp.

 

[Marine5068]

I've filed too thin too.
Where did you buy that (?) guide and how much was it.
What's the name of that guide?
Thanks.

 

[hearnoevil]

Bought it at husky dealer 27 canuck dollars. Its husky brand and came with guide 2 files and flat file