Anyone converted the oil pump on a 450 to the adjustable one on a 455? Looks like it will fit right in place of the 450s. I saw something on Google about doing it. I searched here didn't really find anything.
Husky 450 adjustable oiler conversion?
- Thread starter Mustang71
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LegDeLimber
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Here are some photos from my oiler swap. I shot these over several different days, so there are a few gaps in the group.
Let me know what else I missed and I'll try to get it shot and posted.
(Such as the oiler gear differences & thus why the bar plate needed swapping )
Starting with [image]
0465. After you have removed the bar, chain, clutch, bar plate and the oiler worm.
You now see the original, non-adjustable, 450 Rancher, oil pump.
0477 Remove it. Don't forget to pull out that pin where the pencil is pointing.
0468 Just a look at the pump parts after removal.
0506 Here is the original clutch shell and worm gear. Notice the shape of where the clutch shell engages the worm gear.
These pieces will not fit with the 455/460 parts.
Let me know what else I missed and I'll try to get it shot and posted.
(Such as the oiler gear differences & thus why the bar plate needed swapping )
Starting with [image]
0465. After you have removed the bar, chain, clutch, bar plate and the oiler worm.
You now see the original, non-adjustable, 450 Rancher, oil pump.
0477 Remove it. Don't forget to pull out that pin where the pencil is pointing.
0468 Just a look at the pump parts after removal.
0506 Here is the original clutch shell and worm gear. Notice the shape of where the clutch shell engages the worm gear.
These pieces will not fit with the 455/460 parts.
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LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
Now we are ready to start mounting the, adjustable flow, 455/460 oil pump.
0475 Here is our shiny new, adjustable, 450/460 oil pump.
0479 Here we have the oil pump body, just started to slip into the oil delivery hose.
Notice the pump body still needs to rotate another quarter turn, so that the nipple aligns with the top of that square end of the hose.
0480 Shows the oil pump body now aligned and fully inserted into the hose end block.
Notice the adjusting screw is also inserted into the opening of the saw body.
Nice that Husqvarna provided that opening, wasn't it?
0484 Now we tuck the oil hose back into its slot and make sure the new pump fits nice and smooth without any interference.
If everything is in place without problems, then insert the new screw that holds the pump body.
Personally I like a dab of, dollar store nail polish, on the screws that are used in the plastic. Seems to keep them in place without needing to torque them as much.
This helps with not stripping them!
And always remember to gently back turn the screws and find the existing thread, whenever you re-insert a screw in plastic or metal.
0475 Here is our shiny new, adjustable, 450/460 oil pump.
0479 Here we have the oil pump body, just started to slip into the oil delivery hose.
Notice the pump body still needs to rotate another quarter turn, so that the nipple aligns with the top of that square end of the hose.
0480 Shows the oil pump body now aligned and fully inserted into the hose end block.
Notice the adjusting screw is also inserted into the opening of the saw body.
Nice that Husqvarna provided that opening, wasn't it?
0484 Now we tuck the oil hose back into its slot and make sure the new pump fits nice and smooth without any interference.
If everything is in place without problems, then insert the new screw that holds the pump body.
Personally I like a dab of, dollar store nail polish, on the screws that are used in the plastic. Seems to keep them in place without needing to torque them as much.
This helps with not stripping them!
And always remember to gently back turn the screws and find the existing thread, whenever you re-insert a screw in plastic or metal.
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LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
0493 Now we can slip the worm gear and clutch bearing on and check that the worm smoothly engages and turns the pump.
That the pump makes the stroke that it should.
Just fingertip grip should be all it takes to operate things.
IF it binds or gives any trouble, now is the time to find out about it!
0493 You can now see why the 450 clutch shell & worm can not be mixed with the 455/460 parts.
0497 Be sure to align the slot of the clutch shell/drum with the oiler gear as you slide it over the clutch bearing.
0495 now look , to be certain, at the crankshaft shoulder and the clutch shell/drum to see that it goes in far enough that the clutch hub doesn't bind against the clutch shell/drum.
Screw the clutch hub (and any washer/spacer) in and double check that the clutch still spins freely, by hand.
See, I warned y'all that I would be missing some photos along the way.
That the pump makes the stroke that it should.
Just fingertip grip should be all it takes to operate things.
IF it binds or gives any trouble, now is the time to find out about it!
0493 You can now see why the 450 clutch shell & worm can not be mixed with the 455/460 parts.
0497 Be sure to align the slot of the clutch shell/drum with the oiler gear as you slide it over the clutch bearing.
0495 now look , to be certain, at the crankshaft shoulder and the clutch shell/drum to see that it goes in far enough that the clutch hub doesn't bind against the clutch shell/drum.
Screw the clutch hub (and any washer/spacer) in and double check that the clutch still spins freely, by hand.
See, I warned y'all that I would be missing some photos along the way.
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LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK. After taking the clutch and worm gear back off......We are ready for the fun part.
Hammering the sheet metal!
Alrighty.
Because of the difference of the offset of the worm gears,
We now need to use the back plate from a 455/460 Rancher.
0688 Of course it has to modified a little bit.
You can see how the curve (towards the rear of the saw) doesn't quite fit into the slot of the case.
Phooey.
0725 So let's go find something sturdy (like this vise body ) to do a little metal hammering on.
It really, really, really helps if you have something that is pretty close to the final shape/curve
that you want the plate to have!
0737 This vice just happened to have a couple of curves that were pretty close to what I needed.
You can also see some of the, now surplus, metal that I hammered over the vice body.
We will have trim this up before we're done.
Hammering the sheet metal!
Alrighty.
Because of the difference of the offset of the worm gears,
We now need to use the back plate from a 455/460 Rancher.
0688 Of course it has to modified a little bit.
You can see how the curve (towards the rear of the saw) doesn't quite fit into the slot of the case.
Phooey.
0725 So let's go find something sturdy (like this vise body ) to do a little metal hammering on.
It really, really, really helps if you have something that is pretty close to the final shape/curve
that you want the plate to have!
0737 This vice just happened to have a couple of curves that were pretty close to what I needed.
You can also see some of the, now surplus, metal that I hammered over the vice body.
We will have trim this up before we're done.
Attachments
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
0740 In this view, You can see that the edge of plate needs to be a bit flatter.
0733 So out comes one of those "universal tools", the impact socket!
Not only does it push seals and bearings, you can also do a bit of metal shaping with one.
Heck, I've even turned nuts & bolts with 'em.
0741 After a few whacks with the socket & hammer, we've got a much better looking corner on the plate.
Now you have to trim off that sloppy looking area where we bent it over the "anvil".
You have to get it trimmed back to match the original height of the rest of the lip.
Oh and make sure you deburr it well. If it is left sharp, in ANY manner,
it will cut into the side of your saw case.
Obviously, We don't want to slice the saw case, 'cause we don't want to destroy the saw after all of this effort. Right?
0833 Now we have the plate fitted to the saw.
You can see the screw that I added to the lower left corner of the plate.
I had added this to the original plate, because it didn't fit snug enough to keep the sawdust out from behind it.
So I carried the idea over to the new back plate. for the same reason.
That's really just too long of a spread. for just the single screw that Husqvarna used.
And yes, that's another dab of cheap nail polish, on each of the screws.
0733 So out comes one of those "universal tools", the impact socket!
Not only does it push seals and bearings, you can also do a bit of metal shaping with one.
Heck, I've even turned nuts & bolts with 'em.
0741 After a few whacks with the socket & hammer, we've got a much better looking corner on the plate.
Now you have to trim off that sloppy looking area where we bent it over the "anvil".
You have to get it trimmed back to match the original height of the rest of the lip.
Oh and make sure you deburr it well. If it is left sharp, in ANY manner,
it will cut into the side of your saw case.
Obviously, We don't want to slice the saw case, 'cause we don't want to destroy the saw after all of this effort. Right?
0833 Now we have the plate fitted to the saw.
You can see the screw that I added to the lower left corner of the plate.
I had added this to the original plate, because it didn't fit snug enough to keep the sawdust out from behind it.
So I carried the idea over to the new back plate. for the same reason.
That's really just too long of a spread. for just the single screw that Husqvarna used.
And yes, that's another dab of cheap nail polish, on each of the screws.
Attachments
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mustang71 It's been a couple of years since I did this project.
I've dumped a few of the original pics and some could have been better composed.
Just let me know what I skipped, or doesn't make sense and I'll try to give a an answer or photo.
I've dumped a few of the original pics and some could have been better composed.
Just let me know what I skipped, or doesn't make sense and I'll try to give a an answer or photo.
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Now I'd call that a pretty durn thorough answer to the question......good job Leg.....
Yea this is awesome thanks for all the help I ordered the parts and am waiting to recieve them. Hopefully I'll be oiling again or possibly for the first time ever in this saws life.
Put it all together started it up and the oil started running out. Finally works. I did use a pinion gear off a 350xp and you don't need to change the back plate or clutch cover just pound out a small dimple in the cover.
I don't notice an excessive amount of oiling happening when its on high but its 3 years since I did the swap and I have had no issues with oiling. I wouldn't have done the swap if my oiler didn't break.
Well I pulled the bar and chain and everything looks normal. I'm not about to pull the clutch for educational purposes. I dont remember exactially what I did any you aren't going to find much info on the conversion. I remember Googleing it and thats where I found the part about the plate. Ill look for a few later but like I said its not spitting oil like crazy now. I only did it to replace a broken oiler and noticed it had the spot for the adjustable oiler like the 455 and 460.
No problem and I understand. So my situation is that this 450 Rancher is used and was missing the oiler. I ordered a new parts from Husky. 5.99 and 4.99 for pump and piston. I also ordered the 455 rancher oiler from amazon. So Ill install the factory setup first and see how that does.
Saw seems to run well. 150 psi compression. It fired up right away on first attempt with the cold start procedure. Will be using the stock 0.325 pitch chain on stock bar 20’’ Also got a new clutch drum and chain brake / cover as part of kit. I am just fixing it up. Will post a pic later. Thanks for the reply.
I ended up just going with the stock oiling system. It works but not as good as Id like. I didnt have the 455 pinion, so the 455 oiler I had from amazon would work. Here is a pic of the painted and restored saw tho. I used it to fell 4 trees and well well. I also had my 130 working aside to piece up the logs.
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robk450
New Member
Ok I ordered the 455 oil pump for my 450 and a 455 rim gear clutch with the worm gear and the worm gear doesn't engage the the 455 oil pump. So do you know the part number of the correct worm gear I need for this convention? Thank you
robk450
New Member
I'm not sure that saw will like 3/8 pitch... my smaller stihl 028 will out perform my 450 any day.
cranman1951
ArboristSite Operative
I find the 50 cc Huskys I play with like the .325 pitch better then 3/8
