Log Splitter Grate

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gulity1

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For those for you out there that have bulit a log splitter/processor. When you built the split table how far apart are your tubes kinda seems like everyone either uses 1"-1.5" round tube of some kind or angle iron maybe 2" what kinda of spacing works best? I am going to be using old hyd shafts 1.5 dia 3/8 wall tube stock crome plated for my grate was thinking about 40" wide overall about 4 ft long with 10-12" sides I need the spacing so I can figure out how many shafts I need, they are free from work :clap: kinda looks like this shape \_____/ If you can imagine that with 4ft crome grate bars. I think it was hedgerow?? that made a flip style for his splitter awhile ago I have also been looking at commerical units for some time stealing and reverse engineering some of the stuff. At any rate thats for all the input advance
 
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Them cylinders sound like they'll be heavy, not to mention dealing with flaking chrome down the road? I used 1/2" black pipe and 1" square tube on mine, it pivots on one 1/2" grade 8 bolt. It's had prolly at least 100 cord across it and no problems.







 
Output tables are great speed and labor savers. Most have to be removed to transport splitter. Weight becomes an issue if you work alone and have to wrestle it on and off, a creation above 60 lbs with an awkward shape. The hollow tubes, or small rebar at 1.5", let the chips fall through and cut down on weight. Be careful to avoid any gaps on the side rails that can catch split wood. Four or six way wedges tend to starburst split wood at an outward angle, right into your side rails.
 
After looking at the picturesof splitter and table, it was blazin that I was thinking of -- thanks for the idea

I am looking for a dimension that works or maybe one that does not, I was thinking about 3" on center and the wieght thing is not an issue as it will be a semi-perment part of the machine. At 3 inches that leaves about a 2 hole/slot for stuff to pass through and since they are round and not sqaure the wood should slide a little easier less contact area. It was said once here before, the 4-way is for go, 6-way is for show. As far as the crome pealing if and when it does I will take it into work and blast it and paint with our epoxy base primer We have some really tuff 2 stage paint once it cures is dam near E Coat like. That is a long way down the road yet I want to see how it performs before I make any adjustments to it. Keep the ideas coming and again thanks for the input
 
big enough to manage

I have a tsc/huskee/speeco 35 ton splitter with a different end so mine doesn't matter ..but keep in mind if you want to push your woodpile further off..think about some type of roller rack off the end and spacing wide enough to drop bark/splinters/unstackable wood to the end. just my .02. I make a log rack off the side of mine with a piece of trailer gate and wish I would have made it out of round tubing with at least 3" spacing and 6" supports under to get rid of the chips of bark. but again..mine is for pieces to be split or split again. but same concept..the less you have to clean out at the end of the day the faster you can get to AS
 
I used a 2x4 on edge to space out 3/4" black pipe for inner foot my outfeed table then an 10" strip of plywood on the outside. I do not have any up wings. The plywood makes a handy work surface to service my saw on. Trashy pieces fall through the 1-1/2" gap no problem. I split everything 2-1/2" or bigger so it can dry better & did not want the smaller pieces to fall through.

I would recommend your table start 2-3" BEFORE the wood hits the wedge. This way as you place the wood next to the wedge it will already be over the outfeed table preventing the wood will from be driven into the end of the table.
 
wndwlkr that is a nice looking machine can we have some more pictures that looks real sharp. thank you everyone else who commented I am going to start building this week I think if the boss let me work at work no goverment work in the shop while the owner is there, Oh well Thanks AS
 
splitter table

I went to the local steel step and walkway builder and bought some [offcuts]they work fine. like this Steel Grating - Steel Grating Ltd Christchurch I paid $30 for a piece about 3ft square it had a few faults in it, mainly cosmetic bit bent and some of the bars were not aligned properly but whatever, its only holding wood, not in a beauty contest, and it was galved
 

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