New piston ring compressor and you already own it.

[ft. churchill]

Yesterday I was replacing the cylinder on my white top 61/272 project (hylomar was leaking without a gasket :msp_angry: and I was worried about the squish height of only .017"). I've been just squeezing the ring in with my fingers, but with ultra grey sealant on the gasket I didn't want to foul the lower edge of the piston with sealant while trying to get the cylinder on. Then it dawned on me to use a ty-wrap to hold the piston ring compressed while I fit the jug on. Put the tail of the ty-wrap parallel with the piston pin and it also forms a nice handle to manipulate the piston/rod assembly. As the cylinder slides on the ty-wrap will slide down the piston skirt and will not scratch it like a metal tool would. When the ty-wrap pops below the piston skirt, cut it off with some dikes and set the jug.

 

[nmurph]

That's not a novel idea...and I would have left the squish at .017".

 

[Mad Professor]

Sharpen the handle of an old tooth brush.

Works wonderful on rings, and won't hurt piston, cylinder, or rings

 

[ft. churchill]

I was disappointed that my cylinder leaked with no gasket and hylomar sealant. I cut a .004" gasket from a heavy paper envelope and used ultra grey sealant. Should put me in the .021" area which is what I'm readin' here on AS is to shoot for. Just came in from the shop and the saw no longer leaks. :smile2: I set up last night for a pressure test, and waited overnight for the gasket sealant to set up.

 

[Jacob J.]

I've used nylon zip ties on larger pistons. They have limitations though on
great big pistons.

If you're using liquid sealant and you don't want to foul it, put it on the crankcase
rather than the cylinder.

The sharpened toothbrush idea is an oldie but a goodie. Old toothbrushes have
mountain of uses. Mostly mine go for parts cleaning.

 

[nmurph]

JJ, I apply a skim-coat on both surfaces and then give them a little twist back and forth: any thoughts on this technique?

 

[Jacob J.]

JJ, I apply a skim-coat on both surfaces and then give them a little twist back and forth: any thoughts on this technique?

That's about the best technique you can use with the liquid sealant.

Some of them even benefit from some set-up time before assembling the parts,
like Form-A-Gasket.

 

[SkippyKtm]

Yesterday I was replacing the cylinder on my white top 61/272 project (hylomar was leaking without a gasket :msp_angry: and I was worried about the squish height of only .017"). I've been just squeezing the ring in with my fingers, but with ultra grey sealant on the gasket I didn't want to foul the lower edge of the piston with sealant while trying to get the cylinder on. Then it dawned on me to use a ty-wrap to hold the piston ring compressed while I fit the jug on. Put the tail of the ty-wrap parallel with the piston pin and it also forms a nice handle to manipulate the piston/rod assembly. As the cylinder slides on the ty-wrap will slide down the piston skirt and will not scratch it like a metal tool would. When the ty-wrap pops below the piston skirt, cut it off with some dikes and set the jug.

Ultra grey will work, but its an RTV and not recommended for contact with gasoline.

LINK
about 2/3 of the way down under "chemical/solvent resistance"

That's about the best technique you can use with the liquid sealant.

Some of them even benefit from some set-up time before assembling the parts,
like Form-A-Gasket.

Permatex Moto-seal is like that, they want you to apply it to both surfaces and then wait 1 minute before joining.
LINK

I've been using this stuff for several years now and it works great. Less than 1/2 the price of dirko and works just as well. This is meant for gasoline resistance and joining things such as crank case halves.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

How 'bout Permatex Tack&Seal? I went that route recently to seal a base gasket leak since the only other sealant I had was Permatex Black, (which is RTV silicone based.) And my choices were very limited to Advance Auto Parts, Advance Auto Parts, Advance Auto Parts, and Wal-Mart.

Poge

 

[Scooterbum]

Good on ya' for using the ol' noodle.

Other choices can be hose clamps, duct tape (grease the ring first) and cutting up a soda or beer can.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I bought a ring tool thing on e-bay it is made of like,,, 5--- 3/4 circles of red plastic to fit diffrent sizes of piston and comes with a bridge sort of thing that you slide around the connecting rod and below the piston skirt it holds the piston straight up and down as well as a "L" shaped white plastic tube thing that you can insert into the plug hole for a piston stop $9.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CYLINDER-PI...3?pt=Concrete_CutOff_Saws&hash=item1e64102d07

 

[mistabarista]

another idea for ring compressor, i just used a saddle from the down pipe off the house, worked mint on me 385xp

 

[Cantdog]

I have always used the zip tie method, however I always orient the coupler 90 degrees from the OP more or less depending on where the ring ends are. The joint never really lays flat against the ring/piston and provides a "window" to make sure the ring ends are positioned correctly. I prefer the zip tie method over any other I've used because when the piston is supported on two blocks of wood at near TDC it's a hands free operation. I even have a wide cable tie that can be released and used over. It is wide enough for 2 ring pistons. I believe I found it on and old auto wiring harness. If I am using just sealer and no gasket I use two thin strips of wood to hold the larger blocks up off the gasket surface so the sealer is not disturbed. I use the blue Hylomar and have never had any leaks....I prefer this product as it never hardens and gas won't touch it. I just make sure I have a very very thin continous layer on both pieces to be joined...works perfect for me.

 

[sachsmo]

Hose clamps +1.

Used them for years on bikes and small engines.

 

[Zippy]

Good photos Cantdog

 

[starsailor]

Another piston ring "clamp" I've used several times is to cut a band of clear thin plastic out of a 2L soda bottle just wide enough to catch both rings and long enough to wrap all the way around the piston with a little overlap. Then I wrap it around the rings and squeeze them closed and add a piece of packing tape to hold it. The thickness of the soda bottle plastic is just enough to catch on the bore bevel and keep sliding down as the rings enter cleanly. I just cut the tape with a little knife once the rings slide in the bore and the plastic band pops right off.

I guess it's pretty much the same as a zip tie, but I always seem to be out of zip ties and I always have bottle available in the recycle bin. In fact you'd be surprized how many "tools" come from my recycle bin.

Hmm, maybe I should start a new thread on that...