What would you venture to say is an acceptable amount of radial play on the PTO side? I'm guessing I have around .010" of detectable radial play, but it turns over smooth.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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It's worth it in my book.
I would pressure/vacuum test the crankcase. If the PTO side seal is not leaking I'd venture a guess that the radial movement is not a problem. Even a small amount of movement seems like a lot when you are wiggling the crankshaft.
Mark
Mark
Roger that, and boy are you right about a tiny bit of radial play feeling like a lot.
After I replaced the bearings and seals in my SP40 it still had a tiny amount of radial play in the crank which I wasn't happy about, but it runs absolutely great.
After I replaced the bearings and seals in my SP40 it still had a tiny amount of radial play in the crank which I wasn't happy about, but it runs absolutely great.
I went through the same experience with a 600 Series saw many years ago and learned that the needle bearings always seem to have a bit of radial movement. They do carry a greater load with the increased bearing area due to the long rolling elements.
Mark
Mark
Got the carb off and apart....the 10-10 has a little scuffing on the intake side on the piston skirt, but is showing real nice compression. The filter screen is junk, I wonder if it was eating some sawdust.
My fuel tank is full of peeling paint, I've been working on cleaning it out, but I have an idea that might really do the trick. We have a steam cleaner with a pointed nozzle that I think might really blast the junk out. I will report back once I have a chance to try it.
Makes me miss the plastic tanks on my mini macs haha.
Makes me miss the plastic tanks on my mini macs haha.
I have very succesfully cleaned that same mess out with nothing more than nuts and bolts. 1/4 x 1 inch bolts and nuts loose and just rolled it around and shook it back and forth alot for what seemed like just a few minutes at a time. Cleaned it up real well.
I did that exact thing and got a lot out. There was some stubborn paint that required more effort but I think I've got it pretty clean now!
Just waiting on my carb rebuild kit, and if it runs good I'll be looking for a 24" bar and chain combo.
You're a keen man running a 24 on 10-10
The kicker is... the 24" B&C is going on my 10-10S, and the 20" B&C from that saw will go on this saw.
I have a 200 in waiting. So many saws ,so little time!
Just want to slip in a word of thanks Mark. I gain a lot of knowledge reading your posts and it is much appreciated!
PerfectThe kicker is... the 24" B&C is going on my 10-10S, and the 20" B&C from that saw will go on this saw.
Got ya a big boy toy there! Big saws are fun
Go big or go home,
Finally made some time to work on the 1-76. Rebuilt the carb and installed a nos main check kit, getting rid of the screen. Which was needed as it was totally gunked up. Decided to take a chance on the primer, It seems to function just fine. Added a slightly stiffer spring under the check ball and new seat + o rings where it bolts to the carb. Fuel tank had this floppy plastic liner thing in it, doesn't fit real well, and I'm contemplating leaving it out. Tank was remarkably clean.
Question, what's a good starting point for the jets? Low was 1 1/4 turn out and the high jet was only 1/2 turn out. The high jet seemed very lean to me. I'll finish cleaning it up and get the top tank bloated back on this evening.
Question, what's a good starting point for the jets? Low was 1 1/4 turn out and the high jet was only 1/2 turn out. The high jet seemed very lean to me. I'll finish cleaning it up and get the top tank bloated back on this evening.
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G70 for sale nearby. a gear drive that looks like a 10-10. odd. what was the purpose of gear drive anyway? were the older saws so weak that they needed gear reduction? weren't the gear drives from the 60's? just curious.
That G70 was one of the last gear drives made from early to mid 70's Homelite dropped their remaining 2 gear drives around that time too.Lots of torque,with normally less chain speed they wouldnt bog down in anything,but if you pinched the bar in a log accidentally during use,unlike a direct drive saw which would freeze up,a gear drive would keep going & launch itself outta the saw kerf towards the operator
Ask me how I know this,lesson learned....lol
Ask me how I know this,lesson learned....lol
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