KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Not sure Keith i've never had my saws that close to the edge they're more on the fat side and my 372 and 390 i have to push a little or dog in to really clean up so even if im limbing 4" wood im still ok.
Anybody got a 661c they wanna trade for a masterminded 461 with about 5 tanks through it?
Very true! I can tune one but ill take an Mtronics/Autotune anyday over manual carbIt's funny, I never realised how many people can't tune a saw until recently, I kind of knew most homeowners have no idea but most of the professionals I've met don't either, not even increasing idle speed
Theres just too many advantages of mtronics over a manual carb but in the right hands the standard carb is deadly!!! To me tuning a carb is like a manual shift vehicle. Mtronics cranks easy, idles perfect, accelerates quick, adjust for optimum cut regardless the size of wood! Whats not to like? Let me guess , "It has too much stuff on it !!" Really???? A board and a solenoid???After your speech about M-tronic? If it was a 441CM that had some extra bananas I might think about taking a trip up the road but... I think if a newbie like me is going to have something that nice it better tune itself or I will kill it some how.
Theres just too many advantages of mtronics over a manual carb but in the right hands the standard carb is deadly!!! To me tuning a carb is like a manual shift vehicle. Mtronics cranks easy, idles perfect, accelerates quick, adjust for optimum cut regardless the size of wood! Whats not to like? Let me guess , "It has too much stuff on it !!" Really???? A board and a solenoid???
Who all wants to go back to carb vehicles with manual shift?
Board is around 150 and the solenoid im not sure? If you havent tried mtronics u should give it a whirl. My opinion is if a board or a solenoid made a saw unreliable and we used that philosophy with cars we would still be in the stone age with vehicles? Seems vehicles have worked out just fine with electronics and solenoids?
Thinking about a cannon 18" supermini .370 picco bar and a Stihl ps picco square filed chain with a 7 or 8 pin sprocket?
I agree. I like the 6 spur , 3/8 ps chain with rakers at .025, and the stihl 18 bar for all around performanceI didnt read the entire thread yet but...I am gonna say you will kill the lightness and flick-ability that saw is known for with a cannon bar. I could be wrong but I would go with the OEM Stihl Rollo E 18 picco bar. Doesnt mean you shouldnt try it. If they werent 100 ducks I would have one just to try too.
I have not tried the 8t on the picco yet as there was noticeable torque drop going to the 7t 3/8. The 7T .325 did not seem much different as far as lugging power is concerned than the 6t spur it came with.
I
I have run on mine with combinations of 6t spur or 7t rims the following:
16" picco Stihl Rollomatic E bar - good setup, just to short to be practical
18" picco Stihl Rollomatic E bar - Highly recommended. My favorite setup. best overall performance / balance.
16" .063 .325 Stihl Rollomatic E bar - works well but again, too short for my liking
16" .050 .325 GB Arbor Pro solid RSN bar - cuts faster than the stihl bar for some reason, but makes the saw more nose heavy.
18" .325 .050 STIHL Rollomatic E bar - Would be my 2nd choice behind the 18" picco bar.
To me it works the best with the 18" stihl bars. The 16" 3005 mount bars seem too short for anybody not a troll. The .325 is a larger chain and works better for brush cutting and heavier work than the picco just for wear reasons but it seems slower in actual wood to me due to the slower chain speed than picco with the 7t rim. A 6t spur makes it a relative torque monster. Overall, I personally like the picco as I can swap bars with my 201T if I have to when I'm out cutting should I booger a chain on one of them and need to use the other for a given task. Plus it's one less type of filing equip to drag along. I take stuff for picco and full 3/8 and I'm set. Sorry for the long post.
Appreciate the post. Useful infoI didnt read the entire thread yet but...I am gonna say you will kill the lightness and flick-ability that saw is known for with a cannon bar. I could be wrong but I would go with the OEM Stihl Rollo E 18 picco bar. Doesnt mean you shouldnt try it. If they werent 100 ducks I would have one just to try too.
I have not tried the 8t on the picco yet as there was noticeable torque drop going to the 7t 3/8. The 7T .325 did not seem much different as far as lugging power is concerned than the 6t spur it came with.
I have run on mine with combinations of 6t spur or 7t rims the following:
16" picco Stihl Rollomatic E bar - good setup, just to short to be practical
18" picco Stihl Rollomatic E bar - Highly recommended. My favorite setup. best overall performance / balance.
16" .063 .325 Stihl Rollomatic E bar - works well but again, too short for my liking
16" .050 .325 GB Arbor Pro solid RSN bar - cuts faster than the stihl bar for some reason, but makes the saw more nose heavy.
18" .325 .050 STIHL Rollomatic E bar - Would be my 2nd choice behind the 18" picco bar.
To me it works the best with the 18" stihl bars. The 16" 3005 mount bars seem too short for anybody not a troll. The .325 is a larger chain and works better for brush cutting and heavier work than the picco just for wear reasons but it seems slower in actual wood to me due to the slower chain speed than picco with the 7t rim. A 6t spur makes it a relative torque monster. Overall, I personally like the picco as I can swap bars with my 201T if I have to when I'm out cutting should I booger a chain on one of them and need to use the other for a given task. Plus it's one less type of filing equip to drag along. I take stuff for picco and full 3/8 and I'm set. Sorry for the long post.
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