Oregon 551462 Centering Adjustment -- Is there one?

[Doktor D]

Hey guys! New to the forum, but I'm sure you'll see me around quite a bit.

After a year of sub-par work from an outside sharpening service, I decided to purchase a bench mount chain sharpener so we could do our chain sharpening in house. I went with the Oregon 551462 hydraulic assist because I could get it for the same price as the 511AX.

However, I think I'm starting to regret not going with the 511AX.

My problem is that the grinder is not removing the same amount from the left and right cutters. I've been searching the forum, but I can only find information on adjusting the 511AX and NOT the 551462. I've looked through the manual, looked at the parts diagram, looked at the grinder itself, and I can't see how this can be adjusted to center the chain vise so I don't have to pull out the calipers for every chain.

I hate to make yet ANOTHER thread on the setup/calibration of a chain grinder, but I can't see where this issue has been brought up about the hydraulic assist. ONLY the 511A/511AX.

If there's no way to adjust it, I'm going to send the thing back to my distributor and get the adjustable 511AX.

 

[heyduke]

i haven't used the hydraulic grinder but the castings look the same as the high end model that was once marketed by stihl, which i have used quite a lot, also like the 511ax. below the chain vice, on your right you will see a scale.



the chain vice assembly can be moved forward or backward to center the chain under the wheel. i keep a short length of new chain just for making that adjustment, with the motor off of course. as the wheel wears you will have to readjust. you can also use the scale for grinding subtle angles by moving it a centimeter from its center (in opposite directions) as you grind both sides of the chain. nice grinder... hope this helps.

 

[Doktor D]

Thanks for the reply!

I'm at work and don't have the manual in front of me, but it doesn't seem like that would solve the issue. (Trying to picture this in my minds eye). It would not have any effect on the position of left vs right cutters, just moving the vise parallel to the wheel.

The adjustment I'm looking for is shown in the attached clip.

Maybe tonight I can check the accuracy of the front angle plate. I've read in a few other posts on here about it being off and having to re-position it by oblonging the screw holes and retightening it in the correct position.

Am I correctly explaining the problem? I don't want to sound like I'm arguing with your response, I just want to clarify what I'm asking.

 

[watsonr]

I don't believe that model is self centering, the 511AX is.

 

[Doktor D]

I don't believe that model is self centering, the 511AX is.

Now I'm believing you're right.

Wow, talk about a case of buyers remorse. In my opinion, the added feature of hydraulic assist is nowhere near an even trade off for the lack of a self centering vise... Who wants to pull out calipers for every chain? Not me, I can tell you that...

Oh well, if that's the case I guess I'm going to get a hold of my sales rep and see if I can't trade it in for the 511AX

 

[Doktor D]

Maybe Oregon should check their website

 

[Doktor D]

I want to thank you guys for your replies.

Just to make sure Im understanding everyone correctly, this 551462 model is NOT capable of being adjusted/calibrated to grinding equal lengths off of the left and right hand cutters without readjusting in between?


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[heyduke]

Thanks for the reply!

I'm at work and don't have the manual in front of me, but it doesn't seem like that would solve the issue. (Trying to picture this in my minds eye). It would not have any effect on the position of left vs right cutters, just moving the vise parallel to the wheel.

The adjustment I'm looking for is shown in the attached clip.

Maybe tonight I can check the accuracy of the front angle plate. I've read in a few other posts on here about it being off and having to re-position it by oblonging the screw holes and retightening it in the correct position.

Am I correctly explaining the problem? I don't want to sound like I'm arguing with your response, I just want to clarify what I'm asking.

the linear adjustment i mentioned does not move the vise paralell to the grinding wheel. it allows you to position the vise precisely under the lowest point of the wheel thus "centering" it and allowing you to switch sides without adjusting the chain stop. the picture you posted is of a less expensive 511 that lacks that feature. the 511ax is actually much easier to use since you don't need a 10mm spanner and 5mm allen wrench to make the adjustment. if you grind a lot of chains you might want to stay on top of that adjustment because the wheel wears quickly. i've never used a self-centering grinder and don't know how they work.

regarding calipers, i use them every time i sharpen a chain, to measure top plate length. i aim for a tolerance of .1mm in top plate length. also, my work flow doesn't require a precisely centered vise. i do multiple passes on each side removing very small amounts of metal with each pass. after the first side is sharp, i readjust the chain stop and do multiple passes on the other side, then use my calipers to even them to within tolerance. not saying my ways is the right way for you, after you've done a bunch of chains, you'll find your method.

don't go kicking yourself about your choice of grinders. you've got a good one there.

 

[Doktor D]

When I say "parallel" to the grinding wheel, I mean a motion looking down from the top of the grinder. I understand it's moving the vise's position to align it under the arbor (or lowest point) to compensate for wheel wear.

However, this doesn't affect the difference in material taken off when switching from 30* for the right hand cutters to the opposite 30* for the left hand. They will both stop in the same position against the wheel regardless of how that is adjusted.

What in looking for is how to adjust the vise to center it relative to THAT adjustment. When the vise is swiveled to +30* in adjusted forward, it would move the cutter AWAY from the wheel. That adjustment would cause the cutter to be pushed forward CLOSER or INTO the wheel when swiveled to the -30*. Do you see what I'm saying?

Right now when I set everything to just graze my right hand cutter, swiveling the vise assembly to the opposite 30* for the left hand cutter causes the wheel to want to take off 1.5mm more!

That's my problem...

If I can get it adjusted properly so that doesn't occur, I think I'll be a bit more relieved over the purchase... lol...


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[Doktor D]

Oh one more thing, I do understand that is not the 511AX, but that IS the adjustment that I believe is required. It's adjusting the chain guide forward or backward on the right hand cutter while doing the opposite for the left hand cutter. That would allow for the removal of equal material from both cutters.

Like I said before, I'm so sorry if I'm not making myself clear. It's making sense in my own head lol


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[heyduke]

Oh one more thing, I do understand that is not the 511AX, but that IS the adjustment that I believe is required. It's adjusting the chain guide forward or backward on the right hand cutter while doing the opposite for the left hand cutter. That would allow for the removal of equal material from both cutters.

Like I said before, I'm so sorry if I'm not making myself clear. It's making sense in my own head lol


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1. put a new (or symetrically ground) piece of chain in the vise and adjust the chain stop to just touch the cutter. swivel the vice to the other side.

2. slide the vice forward or backward until it nearly touches the cutter. rotate the vice back to the original side. if the wheel is about the same distance from the cutter you're good to go. if not keep making adjustments until everything lines up. works for me.

3. as the wheel wears you may want to re-adjust.

yes 1.5mm is a lot but these tecomec grinders don't seem to be shipped in adjustment. also the manual should be called the minimal. as i said earlier, i try for a .1mm tolerance. the bushings are often a bit sloppy so it takes a bit of practice and a soft touch. this adjuster is really superior to the one on the chain vise. for one thing it has a clear index which you will learn to use. hope this helps.

 

[J.Walker]

Try grinding a chain with your tilting vice set at 0* and see if you have the same results.

 

[Doktor D]

Duke, here are my settings...

I use a piece of 91 oregon chain right off the roll and adjust the stop so the wheel "kisses" the cutter at 30*

When I rotate to grind the other cutter, I get this result...

No matter HOW I adjust the side setting, I get this gap


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[Doktor D]

Try grinding a chain with your tilting vice set at 0* and see if you have the same results.

Yes, I get the same result


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[heyduke]

Yes, I get the same result


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drd-

i'm busy cleaning house this afternoon but as soon as i can get away, i'll go down to the shop and see how your grinder compares to mine. my grinder there is a 511a and does not have the forward/backward adjustment (which i miss) but at any rate if your wheel is set at 30 degrees to the vise, moving the vise forward or backward would move one cutter closer and the other farther away. i used a grinder like that for ten years and never had a problem. the one thing i am uncertain about is if there is a "self-centering" feature that needs adjustment. i've never used a grinder with that feature. i'll get back to you later.

 

[heyduke]

Yes, I get the same result


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i was unclear about the angles you used for this test. perhaps you should try 0 degrees on the top plate and 0 degrees (perpendicular to the chain vice and floor) for the side angle. if it's still off by a significant amount then the centerline of the chain vise shaft would be off by the measured amount.

 

[blades]

Solved that problem , 2 - 511ax units one set + one set -, And I will never wear out the vise tilt either. Do all chains one set of cutters on "A" then move to "B" to do the other set. Depth gauges are done on a different unit.

 

[Doktor D]

drd-

i'm busy cleaning house this afternoon but as soon as i can get away, i'll go down to the shop and see how your grinder compares to mine. my grinder there is a 511a and does not have the forward/backward adjustment (which i miss) but at any rate if your wheel is set at 30 degrees to the vise, moving the vise forward or backward would move one cutter closer and the other farther away. i used a grinder like that for ten years and never had a problem. the one thing i am uncertain about is if there is a "self-centering" feature that needs adjustment. i've never used a grinder with that feature. i'll get back to you later.

Maybe this is where the misunderstanding is coming in play. On this model the forward/backward movement is always parallel to the plane of the wheel (or perpendicular to the rear of the grinder), regardless of how the cutter angle is set. On your model, does this adjustment you're showing swivel WITH the vise? In that case, yes your advice would be correct and exactly what I would need if my grinder acted the same.


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[Doktor D]

For example.... MY grinder set forward 15 degrees:

Now MY grinder set back 15 degrees:

You can see that adjustment only moves the vice closer and farther away from the back of the grinder regardless of vice angle, NOT push the top plate farther into or away from the side of the wheel.


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[Doktor D]

Solved that problem , 2 - 511ax units one set + one set -, And I will never wear out the vise tilt either. Do all chains one set of cutters on "A" then move to "B" to do the other set. Depth gauges are done on a different unit.

Wish I had the room and extra capital to do that


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