Stihl 024 - What should I replace for reliability?

[Somesawguy]

I picked up a Stihl 024 the other day off CL. I think I have it running ok, but the idle is a little squirrely, and I did have to adjust the low jet and idle speed some.

It had an issue where it would bog down after warming up. The screw on the tank vent was tightened up all the way, and may have been restricting air flow. After backing the screw out, and making sure the vent was clear, it seems to have solved that issue.

The saw is a bit old, and has what looks like a little bit of a rough life, and I'd like to replace the usual problem areas before I depend on it too much. Here's what I'm thinking without breaking the bank.

1. Impulse Line - I know these leak after awhile.
2. Fuel line and filter- same
3. carb rebuild - Should be pretty cheap for the kit right?
4. The air filter seems to just be a screen and not the felt type that my ms290 has.- do these need to be replaced periodically? The flapper seems to work ok.

I don't have a ton of money to put into it, but I'd like to make sure it'll work for me without too much trouble. Is there anything else that these saws have problems with?

The clutch and oiler seem to work ok.

Also, is it generally cheaper to order parts online vs buying at the dealer?

Thanks guys.

 

[DG2244]

From a reliability standpoint your list looks good. I would not go aftermarket if you want something trouble free. The OEM air filters are pricey but much better quality than AM. Good little saw.

 

[Brian VT]

I would pressure/vac test or maybe just go ahead and replace the crank seals.

 

[Somesawguy]

I would pressure/vac test or maybe just go ahead and replace the crank seals.

I don't think I'm quite at that level yet. How hard is it to do?

 

[Birdhunter1]

Other than that check the a/v bushings, I bought my 024 used as well knowing there was one bad, not a hard fix but if one is bad replace them all as the others are on there way out.
Mine runs great, idles poorly. The other two 024's I have ran have been the same way, never has seemed to idle right. It may idle fine for a full minute, pick it up and touch the throttle for it to die.
Muffler mod it and it wakes up quite a bit, I run a 16" bar with Stihl RSC .325 chain on mine and it does a great job.

Questions I have for anyone who can answer:
1). Is the saw posted an early model 024? Reason I ask it is a 1 bar nut saw but made in the Virginia Beach, VA plant. Mine has 2 bar nuts and says West Germany, I have always thought maybe mine was a mid moedel saw is it was made in W.G. and has 2 nuts. But I don't know nothing.
2). How would this saw fare running a 16" 3/8 chain vs .325?

 

[JustinM]

1. Impulse Line - I know these leak after awhile.
2. Fuel line and filter- same
3. carb rebuild - Should be pretty cheap for the kit right?
4. The air filter seems to just be a screen and not the felt type that my ms290 has.- do these need to be replaced periodically? The flapper seems to work ok.

A good starting point, imho. A vac test, as described, would be nice, but if you dont already have the equipment, you may or may not want to invest in them for this particular saw. Then again, there's no time like the present to start learning.

I relay a story about a tiller I worked on. I had a hell of a problem with this particular motor & rather than just getting an upgrade for the ignition (electronic) I continued to mess around with the point & breaker system. I must have spent 10 hrs on that thing, getting the occasional spark only to have it fail over and over. Finally, i broke down & spent $25 on an upgrade kit. Managed to get it running beautifully in about 20 minutes - BUT - and here's the real key to the story: Had I not spent all that time on that engine, learning it inside and out, understanding what wires go where, what each does & how the thing actually works, I would never have been able to install that upgrade kit. I probably would have clipped the wires too high (as the horribly poorly written instructions indicate) and potentially needed a new coil on top of the ignition upgrade.

Moral of the story is that there's really no time like the present to start learning (if its of interest to you) and a saw like this is a great place to do so.

BTW, I have an 036 that looks very much like yours - its had a hard life, but is still extremely dependable and reliable.

 

[Somesawguy]

Other than that check the a/v bushings, I bought my 024 used as well knowing there was one bad, not a hard fix but if one is bad replace them all as the others are on there way out.
Mine runs great, idles poorly. The other two 024's I have ran have been the same way, never has seemed to idle right. It may idle fine for a full minute, pick it up and touch the throttle for it to die.
Muffler mod it and it wakes up quite a bit, I run a 16" bar with Stihl RSC .325 chain on mine and it does a great job.

Questions I have for anyone who can answer:
1). Is the saw posted an early model 024? Reason I ask it is a 1 bar nut saw but made in the Virginia Beach, VA plant. Mine has 2 bar nuts and says West Germany, I have always thought maybe mine was a mid moedel saw is it was made in W.G. and has 2 nuts. But I don't know nothing.
2). How would this saw fare running a 16" 3/8 chain vs .325?

I'd have to look at the serial number, but how do I tell if it's an early model?

I'm not a huge fan of the single bar nut, but it seems to work ok.

As far as the 3/8 chain, I think you'd have to change the sprocket to run it, but it should work ok otherwise. Mine doesn't have a ton of power, so I wouldn't go to anything too different than the stock chain style. (then again, I'm ok with the safety chain, and haven't tried anything else.)

 

[Dillio187]

Other than that check the a/v bushings, I bought my 024 used as well knowing there was one bad, not a hard fix but if one is bad replace them all as the others are on there way out.
Mine runs great, idles poorly. The other two 024's I have ran have been the same way, never has seemed to idle right. It may idle fine for a full minute, pick it up and touch the throttle for it to die.
Muffler mod it and it wakes up quite a bit, I run a 16" bar with Stihl RSC .325 chain on mine and it does a great job.

Questions I have for anyone who can answer:
1). Is the saw posted an early model 024? Reason I ask it is a 1 bar nut saw but made in the Virginia Beach, VA plant. Mine has 2 bar nuts and says West Germany, I have always thought maybe mine was a mid moedel saw is it was made in W.G. and has 2 nuts. But I don't know nothing.
2). How would this saw fare running a 16" 3/8 chain vs .325?

I have the regular 024AV, but mine is stamped Made in Germany with 2 bar nuts as well. It also idles like crap, I usually have the idle set high so it won't stall out.

 

[blsnelling]

Saws are very simple. Take it apart, clean it, and replace whatever needs replacing.

 

[Somesawguy]

Saws are very simple. Take it apart, clean it, and replace whatever needs replacing.

At the moment it seems to be working fine. I have no idea how many hours are on it, and I'd like to only replace what needs to be done. At some point, I may be comfortable with splitting the case and inspecting everything, but I'm not quite there yet. :hmm3grin2orange:

I'll start with the lines, and carb rebuild for now unless something else pops up.

 

[KIGX]

So, what did you do to the saw? Did you fix it? I'm in the same position right now wondering what to do with my 024AV.

 

[Lignator]

I have the regular 024AV, but mine is stamped Made in Germany with 2 bar nuts as well. It also idles like crap, I usually have the idle set high so it won't stall out.

I too have a 024AV. Mine is from 88' with 2 bar nuts, not sure where is was manufactured. I don't have any idle issues once the saw is warmed up. I have been running 3/8" .050 chisel chain on a 16" bar. .325 or low profile 3/8" chain is a better choice. I had a loop of low profile 3/8" which ran better on this saw than full chisel 3/8". Nice light saw! I did a MM and am happy with the results.

 

[TonyRumore]

It looks to me like it should have two bar studs/nuts. I would check and see if the forward bar stud is missing/pulled out/broken off.

Also, if you buy parts off e-bay, the sellers routinely misrepresent 024/026 parts to be interchangable. Some are, and some aren't.
The 026 air filter is taller, and will bolt up to the 024 carb, but the 024 filter cover will not clear it. You can run an 026 filter on the saw, but you would need an 026 cover as well.......however, it will sit proud of the cylinder top cover.

Here is a pic of an 024 with an 026 filter/cover on it.

 

[user 64030]

Hello all,

What is the bar mount for the 024, a 3003 or 3005? I saw one at teh local flkea market/swap meet for a decent price, I like the size but didn't look at teh bar then. I'd like to stay int eh saem family as my other Stihls so I can run my 16" 3003 3/8 I'd hate to pick up a saw and have to run a new set of B&C. If the 024 is a 3005 I'll just step up to a 026-261 family...

dw

 

[Birdhunter1]

It takes the same bar as the 026, 261, 290, etc. I am not sure on the numbers but I had an 029 super an 024 and a 261 (still have) and they all took the same bar.

 

[user 64030]

It takes the same bar as the 026, 261, 290, etc. I am not sure on the numbers but I had an 029 super an 024 and a 261 (still have) and they all took the same bar.

Those all use the 3003... the 3005 is the bar mount for the smaller saws like the 192T etc.

dw

 

[Somesawguy]

So, what did you do to the saw? Did you fix it? I'm in the same position right now wondering what to do with my 024AV.

Sorry, I just noticed life in this thread. I haven't put any parts in the saw yet. I do have them, but other things got in the way. The saw was running more or less ok with a rough idle. The only thing I did have to fix was the tank vent. It would bog out in the cut.

I've been working on setting up a workshop in the basement so I should be able to get to it soon. I'll try to take some pictures when I get to it.

Are you having trouble with your saw?

 

[KIGX]

Well, had trouble with my trusty 25-year old 024. Got very hard to start and then just wouldn't start. Took it all apart, vac check was fine, replaced fuel line, filter, impulse line, etc but probably the main thing was the metering lever was too low. Don't know how the lever gets low but local tech says it can happen over time. Now it fires right up !! Good luck with yours.

 

[Philbert]

I haven't put any parts in the saw yet. I do have them, but other things got in the way.

I recently got 024AV Super that we are guessing is about 15-17 years old, but only had one owner. It is running nice after a heavy clean up, and I only had to replace the chain and weak clutch springs ($10) - I could not get the chain to stop moving at idle speeds, and some A.S. members helped me to diagnose that.

Some of it depends on how far you want to go:

- A thorough cleaning (remove all covers, clutch drum, etc.) will also let you inspect parts for loose, damaged. or worn parts, like the rubber bushings, sprocket, bar, etc., as well as help you to get to know your saw.

- You can replace things that are easy, like the fuel filter, spark plug, air filter, recoil rope, sprocket, chain.

- You can replace your fuel system (fuel line, fuel filter, impulse line, rebuild carb).

- Or you can just run the saw until stuff breaks and fix/replace things then. Some things working now might get damaged just by taking the saw apart. OEM air filters for this saw are a bit pricy, so I would not replace it unless it needed it.

As noted, some parts are interchangeable between 024 and 026. Some parts are interchangeable between 024 Super and 026. Some parts lists distinguish between 'early models' and 'later models', even for parts like clutch drums and air filters, so check carefully before you buy.

Vacuum and pressure testing can help to diagnose some irregular running problems, or to test crank seals. I think of this being done as part of an overhaul or to diagnose certain problems. If your saw is running OK, you probably don't need to do this. Here are some of the vacuum/pressure test links, FYI:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/42768.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/112928.htm

Also, get an Owner's Manual (OM), Service Manual (SM), and Illustrated Parts List (IPL) on the 'Beg for Manuals Thread'
< http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/68615.htm > (or PM me for this saw)

Philbert