which chain to pair with Stihl MS250 16" bar?

[Tyler Davis]

I'm working my way through an 8-cord log truck load of firewood this summer. Clean maple, beech, oak - mostly 8-18" diameter so no big stuff. When I have need to cut a stump or two, I have a dedicated junk chain for that. I swap out two chains on my MS250 16" bar and sharpen when I stop for a break. One chain is getting to the end of its life and I need to replace it. I looked up my Amazon history and the last chain I purchased was
OREGON 22LPX062G 62 Drive Link Super 20 Chain, 0.325-Inch
Is this the best chain for me? I am comfortable with using the saw having run it for many years. So far it it taking me about 2 hours of cutting per cord, which feels slow. Is there a faster chain for me? I have read about skip chain..which is supposed to cut faster with under-powered saws? I have the Stihl Chain Selection PDF and I'm struggling to make sense of it.

 

[rd35]

It's purely a matter of opinion. On a 16" bar and cutting the type of wood you stated, I would stick with what you have. That would be my choice. You could switch from .325 pitch to 3/8" pitch low profile chain in a 0.050 gauge to give you a narrower kerf and a few less cutters per loop. This would reduce the power required in the cut, but would require higher rpms to keep the cutting speed at an acceptable rate. You would have to get a new bar and new sprocket to match the chain pitch and gauge. I'm sure other folks will chime is on this one. But for me, I would stick with your current set-up, keep the chain sharp, and make sure the air filter is clean and carb properly set.

 

[blsnelling]

I would recommend a loop of Stihl 26RS62.

 

[SawTroll]

A 62dl .325 bar is of course not a true 16" bar, but a somewhat short 15" bar - but 16" is what Stihl calls them with the 3005 mount.

For a .063 . 325 bar the best chain alternatives already have been mentioned (22LPX or 26RS). I like the idea of trying a Picco setup with 63PS chain on that saw though.

 

[Tyler Davis]

OK, reading up on the Rapid Super...sounds like the tradeoff is more rapid cutting at the potential of experiencing kickback if used improperly. So, keep the nose of the bar out of the wood, and I'll be fine? I have a pretty good intuition of when a cut is going to bind.

Will I be able to sharpen the RS chain with the same files I use on the 22 LPX?

 

[SteveSr]

Stihl RS and the Oregon equivalent (full chisel) tends to get dull a lot faster due to the single sharp point on the cutter. It tends to work better in clean wood. However, Stihl RM is a semi-chisel cutter and won't cut quite as fast but will stay sharp a whole lot longer due to the curved cutting surface. If your chain gets dull fast it might be dirtier than you think and you might want to try a loop of semi-chisel chain.

 

[blsnelling]

I recommended what I did after reading that the OP was cutting clean wood and wanted a faster chain. RS is the faster chain for clean wood.

 

[Full Chisel]

RS is the fastest, most aggressive chain I have used, unless you are cutting skidded logs it's the way to go. Although LGX is good chain as well, I prefer the Stihl.

 

[SawTroll]

I recommended what I did after reading that the OP was cutting clean wood and wanted a faster chain. RS is the faster chain for clean wood.

I have found the LPX even faster in .058 - the difference is small though, and likely is even smaller in .063, as then they both cut basically the same kerf. Either will perform very well as long as the wood is fairly clean.

Personally I see no reason to use semi-chisel (RM or BPX) in clean wood - but we do of course not know how clean the wood really is...

@Tyler Davis, forget about skip chain - it is bound to cut slower than full comp (regular chain) for this application, and it will be less smooth in the cut.

 

[Tyler Davis]

So the Oregon LPX chain that I have, is that considered full chisel? I definitely don't want anything that dulls faster than that. I seem to get about two tanks of gas between needing to stop and sharpen.

 

[Full Chisel]

Yes, it is. Stihl chain holds an edge better than Oregon, IME. I have cut several truckloads of logs without sharpening a chisel chain in the past.

 

[Tyler Davis]

And the Oregon LPX chain is equally prone to kickback as the Stihl RS chain? Since I have cut many dozens of hours using LPX chain without a single kickback incident, there is no risk to switching to Stihl RS chain?

 

[Chainsaw10]

I've owned about a dozen 025's/ms250's over the last 20+ years. I currently own 4 ms250's. They get used full time almost daily. Over the years I've run several types of .325, I've run 3/8 lp .043 chain(several brands/designs), I've run picco super(with and without bumper links), I've run picco semi chisel 3/8, I've run several brands of 1/4"(Oregon, Carlton, Woodland Pro, old style Stihl 1/4"), I've also run the mini 1/4" .043 on these saws.
But, the best chain I've used on this saw is Stihls newest 1/4", .050 RM SPECIAL CARVING CHAIN. it's very fast, extremely smooth, and stays sharp a long time. Love this chain!! In my opinion it's THE best thing on this saw!
I carve for a living, but the chain is excellent for all around cutting applications too.

All of the old style 1/4" chains I used in the past were very kickbacky, but this chain is very smooth even with the full wide tip bar.

 

[SawTroll]

And the Oregon LPX chain is equally prone to kickback as the Stihl RS chain? Since I have cut many dozens of hours using LPX chain without a single kickback incident, there is no risk to switching to Stihl RS chain?

Both are rated as "yellow" chain by ANSI, meaning they are not reduced kickback chain. Most chain today (even the "yellow" ones) does have some measure of kickback reduction though, including both those models. On the LPX it is the small ramps besides the rakers, on the RS it is the large ramped rakers themselves.
You may notice that the RS is a little less smooth in the cut, but there shouldn't be any difference in how prone to kickback they are.

 

[SawTroll]

Yes, it is. Stihl chain holds an edge better than Oregon, IME. I have cut several truckloads of logs without sharpening a chisel chain in the past.

I have used them more or less "side by side" and never noticed any such difference. I usually file the chains before they get dull though, so I likely wouldn't notice a marginal difference.

If your chain is really dull after two tanks, it may be an idea to try semi-chisel chain (Stihl RM or Oregon BPX) - it doesn't hurt to try the options, your wood may not be as clean as you think....

 

[blsnelling]

I seem to get about two tanks of gas between needing to stop and sharpen.

Either the wood isn't that clean or you're accidentally touching the ground with it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I would keep what's on it but when mine needed new I put a 3/8 LP on mine in a 16" and it cuts really good with it. I don't remember the number of the chain but it's not safety chain.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I like both. RS now days is just RSC and LPX. LPX is same cut speed and much smoother in cut.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have used them more or less "side by side" and never noticed any such difference. I usually file the chains before they get dull though, so I likely wouldn't notice a marginal difference.

If your chain is really dull after two tanks, it may be an idea to try semi-chisel chain (Stihl RM or Oregon BPX) - it doesn't hurt to try the options, your wood may not be as clean as you think....

Before I got my chain grinder I used to file them and it did seem like Stihl chain was harder. The Oregon and others filed easily but the Stihl seemed just a little softer than my file...

 

[Chris-PA]

Try a loop of BPX. It's pretty damn fast chain for semi chisel.