Echo CS 490

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osteoart

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I have been using an Echo CS490 for felling a large number of dead ash trees on my property. This saw is too big for me to drop-start. The foot platform for ground starting is too small for my big booted foot to fit into for a hold down. Is there a simple solution for this that I an missing? I have had some success with putting my foot on top of the handle but it is not very stable.
 
490 on terra firma, left hand on grab handle, left knee on saw body, right knee right behind handle. Use your weight to keep the saw still as you start it. Both my 490 & 590 are incredibly easy to start with one yank that way.
 
490 on terra firma, left hand on grab handle, left knee on saw body, right knee right behind handle. Use your weight to keep the saw still as you start it. Both my 490 & 590 are incredibly easy to start with one yank that way.
Thanks for the tip but will not work for me with two knee replacements. Actually three, one replaced twice. Just too pain-full to kneel, even for God.
 
What's your drop start method? The 490 is a relatively small chassis light saw, and echos are notoriously easy to start in general.

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Right hand hold in handle, left hand rope pull. Seems with this method the bar wants to turn to the left.
 
Right hand hold in handle, left hand rope pull. Seems with this method the bar wants to turn to the left.
Are you left handed? I put the rear handle between my thighs, left hand on handlebar and start with my right hand.

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May I suggest looking at a saw with the elastic starting? I do not know the proper name but it uses some sort of spring to assist starting. My 352 has this. Works great.
 
Are you left handed? I put the rear handle between my thighs, left hand on handlebar and start with my right hand.
This is actually the safest way to do it since it increases your control of the saw. I have found the best position is with your right knee bent and the saw handle under your right thigh. This prevents the rear handle from kicking you in the "jewels".
 
Something to think on. Does the saw have plenty of starting rope? If the rope has been shortened for whatever reason, there will be a loss of mechanical leverage and this will make it harder to pull.
 
This is actually the safest way to do it since it increases your control of the saw. I have found the best position is with your right knee bent and the saw handle under your right thigh. This prevents the rear handle from kicking you in the "jewels".
Sounds scary to me!
 
Something to think on. Does the saw have plenty of starting rope? If the rope has been shortened for whatever reason, there will be a loss of mechanical leverage and this will make it harder to pull.
Saw like new plenty of rope length.
 
I do not have any problem drop-starting my 025 and it seems to have at least as much squish as the Echo. Maybe just my old bones, steep hills and loss of muscle mass from nursing my darling back to health for a year? Not giving up EVER!
 
This is actually the safest way to do it since it increases your control of the saw. I have found the best position is with your right knee bent and the saw handle under your right thigh. This prevents the rear handle from kicking you in the "jewels".
Scary but I will give it a try. Thanks.
 
I thought the starter felt a bit spongey on the 490 i had. Similar on the cs400 but it complimented starting on it where as the 490 i never got use to it.
Seemed a bit of a strain on my lame shoulder whereas normal starters on my stihls, the pull may be a bit harder but synchronized better to the engine revelations making them a bit easier to fire up on less pulls.
 
My method for anything from a little 12" top handle saw to a 36" ported 660 is i hold onto the rope with my right hand, hold the loop handle with my left hand. Pull the saw up about mid abdomen, push it down and about half way, pull back on the rope. At peak..my left arm is straight and locked, and my right hand is about shoulder height. The bar is never near you with this method

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Drop starting is more technique than strength. A lot like hitting a baseball. I start every saw that way, but couldn’t get the hang of it for a while for sure.

I say you empty the fuel and pull the plug, then practice it. Always keep the chain brake on when drop starting.

Not sure I understand what you mean by it being “too big to drop start”. I find bigger saws easier to drop start than a standard start. They need to weight to keep up the inertia of falling.

I am by no means poking at you for your physical strength or lack thereof. We all age if we are lucky. Maybe a different saw, like an MS261CM with a decomp button? The buttons sure makes it easy.
 
Drop starting is more technique than strength. A lot like hitting a baseball. I start every saw that way, but couldn’t get the hang of it for a while for sure.

I say you empty the fuel and pull the plug, then practice it. Always keep the chain brake on when drop starting.

Not sure I understand what you mean by it being “too big to drop start”. I find bigger saws easier to drop start than a standard start. They need to weight to keep up the inertia of falling.

I am by no means poking at you for your physical strength or lack thereof. We all age if we are lucky. Maybe a different saw, like an MS261CM with a decomp button? The buttons sure makes it easy.
Them buttons really help for us old farts. ;) The only thing I feel with my 261 is the rope is a bit long. It feels like I'm not getting a fast enough rpm's to crank it over to fire. Usually 5-6 pulls to fire it up. I'm comparing this to my 462 rope which seems a bit shorter.
 
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