Bucking Saw Suggestions?

[Snap]

maybe they are metric pounds

Ya, as a US based Engineer I always thought "what ta F*** are they thinking with this metric stuff?"
And keep my steering wheel on the left side of the truck!

 

[Snap]

TBH there is no such thing as a 10.8# bucking saw.

Like the saying goes, It's not how big it is, it's what you can do with it.

 

[dboyd351]

Ya, as a US based Engineer I always thought "what ta F*** are they thinking with this metric stuff?"
And keep my steering wheel on the left side of the truck!

You know what is really weird - I pulled up the specs on a Stihl saw yesterday (off a Stihl dealer site) and the displacement was listed in cubic inches!!!

 

[Snap]

You know what is really weird - I pulled up the specs on a Stihl saw yesterday (off a Stihl dealer site) and the displacement was listed in cubic inches!!!

Tell an iron worker how many Newton-Metres to tighten the bolts and someone might get thrown off the building.

 

[Hickahollar]

If you have to buy one and only need it for a couple of trees just get a ms311

 

[Hickahollar]

Or better yet a use homelite super xl slow but will get her done.

 

[Franny K]

Started the search today and it's odd how Stihl's 10.8 pounds feels much heavier than Echo's 10.8 pounds. I have the CS-501p on the shortlist.

I think the angling rearward of the cylinder has a lot to do with the lower vibration numbers of the more modern stuff. The vibration numbers posted are a combination of at idle and two modes of use I can't recall. Post 1 put vibration as a priority.

I find at least with the Makita 3601 vs the Echo 361P it is hard to decide which one is heavier when there is a pound difference with the bars (shorter on the lighter one) currently mounted.

 

[Snap]

So I bought an Echo CS-501p with an 18" bar setup.
Ran it today for the first time in the wood mentioned in the original thread and it zipped right through.
It starts right up, cold start and hot. No primer bulb but it doesn't seem to need it.
Surprised when it came time to refill the gas tank and it took more than a half a quart so one nit is it does seem to like to burn gas.
Loving it so far but time will tell.

 

[Hickahollar]

You will enjoy that 50cc saw. A 40 to 50cc saw does 75 to 85 percent of most of my firewood cutting. I put my 45cc homeowner saw through the ringer. Almost bought a 50cc pro saw but I decided that a 60cc saw was in order and my ms250(45cc) was close enough to 50cc. Didn't like my step Dad's ms311 because it is heavy so I bought a ms362 because it was lighter. That 311 cuts right with my 362. And after a couple years with the 362 the 311 isn't so heavy I guess I've gotten a bit stronger or used to the weight. Fast forward a couple years and dealing with lots of 40 inch plus oak trees I wish I would of bought 70cc plus saw but for me I use one of my sub 50cc saws the most. Can't go wrong with it enjoy.

 

[Snap]

I think the angling rearward of the cylinder has a lot to do with the lower vibration numbers of the more modern stuff. The vibration numbers posted are a combination of at idle and two modes of use I can't recall. Post 1 put vibration as a priority.

I have had numb hands from power equipment in the past, but neither the CS-2511 nor the new CS-501p seem to create any issue. I don't know any vibration numbers on either but both are acceptable.

 

[Fatherwheels]

I hope you have a saw that works at the end of the warranty. Take a look @ the exhaust outlet on the muffler, and tell me its not a recipe for complete failure. Its like 1\20th of the size of the exhaust port. Never could get what people get so thrilled about them for other than price. Might as well gamble on a holzfforma or some China saw, imo. They aren't a bad saw if you gut the muffler and turn up the fuel. That being said a 562 can kick its butt 11 times out of 10.

But the Echo will start 11 times out of 10 when the husky sits cooling off before it will start again,
you would have the tree finished with the Echo.

 

[Fatherwheels]

Hope you have better luck with echo and their lack of customer service than I did.

I hit the "I will put you onto the Echo rep" line when I had an issue with a new Echo,
the dealer was putting me up against the rep, instead of fixing the issue my saw had,
which for the record was it never kept the tune, I sold it. But I had three 501P saws
that were faultless.

 

[Fatherwheels]

So I bought an Echo CS-501p with an 18" bar setup.
Ran it today for the first time in the wood mentioned in the original thread and it zipped right through.
It starts right up, cold start and hot. No primer bulb but it doesn't seem to need it.
Surprised when it came time to refill the gas tank and it took more than a half a quart so one nit is it does seem to like to burn gas.
Loving it so far but time will tell.

Good sign it burning plenty of gas, it won't be lean, I like the ones I had too, we get them here
with the Sugihara replaceable nosed bar, mine were all 16 inch, balanced well. And yes, they will
always start easily. It takes a long time for them to loosen up, so you will get more power.
Four screws removes the outlet flap off the muffler, they are tight screws,
you can then lift out the small tube that sits in the muffler, its not welded,
just take it out and keep it so you can replace it if warranty work is required,
that will let the saw breath a little better, might not even have to retune the carb.

 

[chipper1]

So I bought an Echo CS-501p with an 18" bar setup.
Ran it today for the first time in the wood mentioned in the original thread and it zipped right through.
It starts right up, cold start and hot. No primer bulb but it doesn't seem to need it.
Surprised when it came time to refill the gas tank and it took more than a half a quart so one nit is it does seem to like to burn gas.
Loving it so far but time will tell.

Congrats on the new saw .

 

[Snap]

Good sign it burning plenty of gas, it won't be lean, I like the ones I had too, we get them here
with the Sugihara replaceable nosed bar, mine were all 16 inch, balanced well. And yes, they will
always start easily. It takes a long time for them to loosen up, so you will get more power.
Four screws removes the outlet flap off the muffler, they are tight screws,
you can then lift out the small tube that sits in the muffler, its not welded,
just take it out and keep it so you can replace it if warranty work is required,
that will let the saw breath a little better, might not even have to retune the carb.

I have to laugh that the stock muffler rings like a 2 stroke motocross bike. Makes me reminiscent every time I start it now.