silvey prosharp users

kf_tree · Jan 17, 2006

i've been playing with a silvey razorsharp for about 6 months now. i can make a decent work chain with it, but my biggest complaint is it takes me so dam long.

i've been thinking about selling it and getting a pro sharp, for those of you running a pro sharp how much faster is it than a razorsharp? if it just gives more precise control but still takes the same amount of time the square grinding is not for me. i'm just getting fustrated that it takes me so long to gind a chain, then i have to clean the gullets and hit the rakers

rahtreelimbs · Jan 17, 2006

Ken don't you have a machine to do the rakers?

At around $2000 for the Pro-Sharp I would stick with what you have!

I don't think the Pro-Sharp offers anything over the Razur-Sharp in terms of speed. I heard that they offer more angles and sh!t like that.

kf_tree · Jan 17, 2006

rahtreelimbs said:
Ken don't you have a machine to do the rakers?

yes, i do rich

that baby was worth every penny, it is so simple and fast to use, everyone should own one. but , by the time i grind the chain on the razor sharp, hit the gullets and rakers i have almost 40min into a dam chain. with a round file i could be done in 10min.

rmihalek · Jan 17, 2006

I don't touch up the gullets and rakers every time. Maybe every third sharpening.

You may want to downgrade to a Swing Arm. I can do a chain for a 16 to maybe a 24 inch bar in about 10 minutes. The first sharpening takes a while because the angles really need to be changed. Once the angles on the cutters match my wheel, then each subsequent sharpening is really just a touch up, with maybe three little "taps" against the wheel to restore the edge.

Of course, we may have different standards as to what constitutes a sharp chain...

rahtreelimbs · Jan 17, 2006

rmihalek said:
The first sharpening takes a while because the angles really need to be changed.

Are you talking about making a round ground chain into a square ground chain?

I agree.........I can clean up a chain in aboout 10-15 min.

bwalker · Jan 17, 2006

I believe Cahoon and Fales both use swingarms.

Dennis Cahoon · Jan 17, 2006

bwalker said:
I believe Cahoon and Fales both use swingarms.

I have a swingarm...Fales has an SDM

rahtreelimbs · Jan 17, 2006

Dennis Cahoon said:
I have a swingarm...Fales has an SDM

Hey Dennis, as I understand it, the Swingarm is better than the Razur-SharpII..........care to elaborate!!!

Tree Sling'r · Jan 18, 2006

rahtreelimbs said:
Hey Dennis, as I understand it, the Swingarm is better than the Razur-SharpII..........care to elaborate!!!

I have the pro-sharp and have a swing arm (used up until last year) I have used co-workers razor sharp II's as well. I will say the Pro-Sharp is more precise and true and it is hard to mess up a grind. It is not faster than anything else though. Grinding a chain is simply grinding a chain. The swing arm is not better than the Razor Sharp in my opinion. But, it also depends how the grinder is set up. I like a stepper angle for limbing. And when you use some elses grinder you also use their angle. I think is you need the best chains possible to produce, then the Pro-Sharp along with Silvey depth gauge grinder is the way to go. I have been fortunate enough to own both.
But, I still have my swing arm sitting in the corner, just can't seem to part with it.

Dennis Cahoon · Jan 18, 2006

rahtreelimbs said:
Hey Dennis, as I understand it, the Swingarm is better than the Razur-SharpII..........care to elaborate!!!

Don't know much about the Razur-SharpII....never used one. I started out with the Silvey SDM, used a Neilson a little bit, and then went to the Simington swingarm. My son has an SDM and a Neilson round grinder for gullets.

Gypo Logger · Jan 18, 2006

Tree Sling'r said:
I have the pro-sharp and have a swing arm (used up until last year) I have used co-workers razor sharp II's as well. I will say the Pro-Sharp is more precise and true and it is hard to mess up a grind. It is not faster than anything else though. Grinding a chain is simply grinding a chain. The swing arm is not better than the Razor Sharp in my opinion. But, it also depends how the grinder is set up. I like a stepper angle for limbing. And when you use some elses grinder you also use their angle. I think is you need the best chains possible to produce, then the Pro-Sharp along with Silvey depth gauge grinder is the way to go. I have been fortunate enough to own both.
But, I still have my swing arm sitting in the corner, just can't seem to part with it.

Hi Treeslingr, I also have the Silvey depth gauge grinder. Somehow I feel that the left and right hand cutters may be out as much as 1 thou. diff, due to where they come into contact with the wheel.
Although this is not an isssue when cutting a straight kerf, I was wondering if there is any truth to what I am surmising?
John

kf_tree · Jan 18, 2006

i guess part of the problem is the first grind takes sooo long.....wether i'm converting round to square or putting the first grind on cl chain. once i'm just touching up to the same angle's i already put on it goes alot quicker.

Crofter · Jan 18, 2006

I am using an old simington 450 and find that when switching from one side cutters to the other there is enough change in contact point that I have to reset slightly. If you are not very carefull when you loosen off to move the chain holder in one direction it is easy to throw off the other two dimensions.

Tree Sling'r · Jan 18, 2006

Gypo Logger said:
Hi Treeslingr, I also have the Silvey depth gauge grinder. Somehow I feel that the left and right hand cutters may be out as much as 1 thou. diff, due to where they come into contact with the wheel.
Although this is not an isssue when cutting a straight kerf, I was wondering if there is any truth to what I am surmising?
John

I don't know John, I don't get real technical with it. At first I would run an individual raker under the wheel once and move on. Now, I wil run it under then reverse it and under once more. Hard to explain. But each raker gets it three times, with only one revolution with the chain.

kf_tree · Jan 18, 2006

john
on the silvey depth gauge grinder i think they come out dead even. if you look at how it is deigned the chanel that the drive links run through is dead center on the wheel, so the teeth are kicked out a bit left and right. so from a theoretical stand point the left and right side should be even.

i only have a caliper to check them, they seem even to me. do you ever find a need to dress the wheel? whe i was playing around trying to take big bites out of the gullets i ended up burning the metal, it actually left a folded over burr that i could chip off. i think i impregnated steel into the wheel, so ised one of the diamond dressers from the razorsharp and cleaned the wheel up, it worked much better after that.

jokers · Jan 18, 2006

kf_tree said:
john
on the silvey depth gauge grinder i think they come out dead even. if you look at how it is deigned the chanel that the drive links run through is dead center on the wheel, so the teeth are kicked out a bit left and right. so from a theoretical stand point the left and right side should be even.

Isn`t it standard wisdom that when grinding rakers you should always grind from the inside out or vise versa, assuming that your grinder is bi-directional, to minimize the inherent effect of the rakers being off the true center of the wheel? If you only grind in one direction for both sides, one side will end up being longer simply due to the lean capable in the vise.

Is the gullet grinder reversable?

kf_tree said:
do you ever find a need to dress the wheel? whe i was playing around trying to take big bites out of the gullets i ended up burning the metal, it actually left a folded over burr that i could chip off. i think i impregnated steel into the wheel, so ised one of the diamond dressers from the razorsharp and cleaned the wheel up, it worked much better after that.

Dressing the wheel to expose fresh and sharp grains is important on any grinder. Once the wheel gets a bit dull it cuts slower which imparts more heat to the tooth.

What is the advantage of the gullet grinder over something like a 511A?

Russ

jokers · Jan 18, 2006

Dennis Cahoon said:
Don't know much about the Razur-SharpII....never used one. I started out with the Silvey SDM, used a Neilson a little bit, and then went to the Simington swingarm. My son has an SDM and a Neilson round grinder for gullets.

Dennis,

Didn`t you once say that you could get more "english" onto the wheel with the Swingarm which allows you to get the angles you want?

Russ

kf_tree · Jan 18, 2006

Russ[/QUOTE] Is the gullet grinder reversable?[/QUOTE]

the moter is not reversable, because you just crank the handle and hit all the depth gauge's as the chain comes around, you would have to wait til the moter stopped spinning and reverse it at each tooth or manually lift the moter do half the chain and then reverse it to do the other side, which defeats the purpose of the simplicity of the grinder. in the pics you can see how the just sharpened depth gauge rotate's forward and hits a cam that raise's the wheel and lowers it for the next one coming up.

Russ[/QUOTE]What is the advantage of the gullet grinder over something like a 511A?

[/QUOTE]

simplicity all in one machine, i'll post pics of how the depth gauge grinder works in the next post i'll show the gullet grinder.

kf_tree · Jan 18, 2006

now to grind the gullet, you maunually lift the head and set the stop pawl. you then set the depth of the wheel and lower the head to grind the gullet, then raise the head and crank the handle to bring up the next tooth and lower the head again.

kf_tree · Jan 18, 2006

here's a pic of the crank handle and the wheel height adjuster.

silvey prosharp users

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