Best tool for working on transfers inside cylinder

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bjorn773

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I just received my aftermarket 346 P&C today. The transfer port castings in the cylinder leave a lot to be desired. I can only think of two ways to tackle this.

One, get some sort of 90 deg. adapter for my dremel. The model I see advertised is way too big to handle this delicate task.

Two, use a very small abrasive wheel. The wheels I have are 1 inch diameter, so I may have to grind them down a bit to get into the port. What do you guys use?
 
I've used an abrasive wheel in the Dremel. You have to use one that's worn down from cutting things or wear one down with a dressing brick. There's tiny right-angle heads for the Foredom tool that work real nice.
 
That's exactly what I was thinking with the wheels, grind them down a bit with a dressing stone.

I've been surfing, trying to find a small 90 degree grinder, but nothing small enough so far. I'll search the Foredom stuff, thanks.
 
The problem with abrasive cutting wheels or discs is that they load up with aluminum too easily and wear down too quickly. If you plan on doing more than one porting job on transfers then there is a good diamond coated disc made and distributed for the dremel tool, I have one and used it on at least 30+ cylinders. It has never loaded up and does not wear down in diameter. It is sold where other Dremel accessories are sold, mine cost me about $45. delivered with tax.
Pioneerguy600
 
I know the stones will load up with aluminum, but they are less than $2 so 1/clylinder, not a big deal. They make quick work of the transfers and get in there easily. I use carbide cutters or rasps on the rest of the work.
 
You can spray WD 40 on the cylinder where you are grinding and it won't load up carbide burrs but I don't know about stones. They are not made for use on material as soft as aluminum. Steve
 
the one on the far right by the piston is what i use on the upper trasfers. works pretty good to widen and blend them to intake
GEDC0354.jpg


brad is right the stone does load up , but for the amount of grinding in the upper trasfers it does wich usualy isnt much, it gets the job done. and they are cheap.
 
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The problem with abrasive cutting wheels or discs is that they load up with aluminum too easily and wear down too quickly. If you plan on doing more than one porting job on transfers then there is a good diamond coated disc made and distributed for the dremel tool, I have one and used it on at least 30+ cylinders. It has never loaded up and does not wear down in diameter. It is sold where other Dremel accessories are sold, mine cost me about $45. delivered with tax.
Pioneerguy600

i know they had this discussion on the hobart site and some people that do a lot of aluminum work will use wax on their abrasive wheels so they dont clog up and i was reading if too much build up occurs an explosion can happen to.(not awesome):dizzy:
 
I have both the abrasive wheels and cutoff wheels. I think I'll tackle it first with the cutoff wheel since they don't load up. I may do final cleanup with the abrasive wheel. I have the typical dremel assortment with plenty of each kind. A diamond wheel would be nice, but I have at least a dozen of each of the other two styles, so why invest even more $$.
 
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Good light is number one, two, is a good right angled handpiece. I got mine (1/8 collet) from CC Specialty, was very expensive, but paid for itself very ast.
 
To do my porting i use an old dentist grinder with adjustable speed by foot pedal, it is small only 17mm diameter and the bits shafts is 2.4mm. I just ordered some new bits that i got to day they are hardened steel cross cut style they don't get packed with aluminum when used ,if some get stuck i just change drive direction of the motor. The last picture is the grinding stone i use to widen transfer ports.
porting-bb012.jpg

porting-bb023.jpg

porting-bb025.jpg

porting-bb022.jpg
 
Here's a procedure question I have. I'm new at this, so be kind. This will be the third saw I've ported.

The first, I did not change squish, since I didn't really have the means. I simply worked on the intake and exhaust ports.

The second, I did intake, exhaust and transfer porting. Then, I measured squish and machined down the base to achieve .020" squish.

I'm wondering if you guys measure squish and do any necessary machining to the base first. Then do your porting. My reasoning would be if .020" was taken off the base, you would probably want to adjust the ports accordingly to retain the same timing. Does this sound correct? I'm not planning to go so far as changing timing, I don't have adequate knowledge to do so.

My second saw runs extremely well, so I'm inclined to follow the same procedure... unless I'm educated differently by the masters here.
 

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