Transfer removal

[cuinrearview]

Honestly I dont usually polish. I was just messing around the other day.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Honestly I dont usually polish. I was just messing around the other day.

Did that make an improvement? Looks nice.

 

[cuinrearview]

Did that make an improvement? Looks nice.

Thanks. It made an improvement to the curb appeal sitting on my shelf. I honestly don't expect that it will do a thing. I may end up opening the exhaust up on that jug so it may mostly get ground away. It was just an exercise to see what I could get.

 

[Justin Taylor]

Thanks. It made an improvement to the curb appeal sitting on my shelf. I honestly don't expect that it will do a thing. I may end up opening the exhaust up on that jug so it may mostly get ground away. It was just an exercise to see what I could get.

It would probably be minor but can’t hurt?

 

[cuinrearview]

It would probably be minor but can’t hurt?

Saws that stay in my barn usually get the tricks like that. I try to keep the mods on saws that I'm selling simple and reversible. People are leery of hop ups. The same goes with the jugs I clean up. I was telling @chipper1 yesterday there are three possible outcomes to a cylinder revival. The round file, "good enough for my saws", and "good to go out the door".

 

[chipper1]

Did that make an improvement? Looks nice.

Only in his ego .

 

[cuinrearview]

Only in his ego .

I've made no claims about my work or my saws, other than they're slow.

 

[chipper1]

I've made no claims about my work or my saws, other than they're slow.

At least they look good on the inside .

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I been doing something pretty close. I call it 1 2 3.

1. most removal done - flapper
2. check by hand to make sure - black strip
3. quick cross hatch

Ready to go.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Nice thread, man. I like your points about being careful not to sand through the plating. I’ve gone through a Dolmar 6400 and a Stihl 064. I also wasted a 460 the first time I tried acid. In my defense, though, it was really scored.

Mastermind/Wigglesworth method described in this classic thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/

 

[cuinrearview]

Nice thread, man. I like your points about being careful not to sand through the plating. I’ve gone through a Dolmar 6400 and a Stihl 064. I also wasted a 460 the first time I tried acid. In my defense, though, it was really scored.

Mastermind/Wigglesworth method described in this classic thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/

That's the one that got me started. I wanted to show that it could be done with tools most people already have.

 

[Ax-man]

Nice work . Those cylinders look really good. I do basically the same thing with the same kind of tools.

I am going to stick my neck out to be put on the chopping block . I said I would never post this but here it is. I made this creation years ago to speed up working on cylinders. I haven't ruined one yet . Electric motor with a shaft adaptor. That first wire brush is very fine to remove crud from the outside of the cylinder and remove any gasket material from the base of a cylinder and also to clean other small parts. I finish with hand sanding. Next comes the drill chucks to add things like fine grit flap wheels , mandrels if need be and that fine wire brush on the end to clean up the squish and combustion chamber, around plug hole and decomp hole . I still haven't gotten around to putting a on -off switch in the lead in line . I just plug it in. The motor spins faster than a drill but not so fast to ruin a cylinder . The motor doesn't spin true like a lathe with all these attachments so you need to go slow and easy with a light touch. I like it . Basically it does the bulk of the work and then I finish with the drills and red Sotchbrite like most people do.

 

[RTK]

I’ve always used strong muriatic acid, you must be careful with it and not get in on non plated surfaces. Then a scotch bright pad after.

 

[MACHINE]

Nice work . Those cylinders look really good. I do basically the same thing with the same kind of tools.

I am going to stick my neck out to be put on the chopping block . I said I would never post this but here it is. I made this creation years ago to speed up working on cylinders. I haven't ruined one yet . Electric motor with a shaft adaptor. That first wire brush is very fine to remove crud from the outside of the cylinder and remove any gasket material from the base of a cylinder and also to clean other small parts. I finish with hand sanding. Next comes the drill chucks to add things like fine grit flap wheels , mandrels if need be and that fine wire brush on the end to clean up the squish and combustion chamber, around plug hole and decomp hole . I still haven't gotten around to putting a on -off switch in the lead in line . I just plug it in. The motor spins faster than a drill but not so fast to ruin a cylinder . The motor doesn't spin true like a lathe with all these attachments so you need to go slow and easy with a light touch. I like it . Basically it does the bulk of the work and then I finish with the drills and red Sotchbrite like most people do. View attachment 800296

Like this?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[cuinrearview]

Nice work . Those cylinders look really good. I do basically the same thing with the same kind of tools.

I am going to stick my neck out to be put on the chopping block . I said I would never post this but here it is. I made this creation years ago to speed up working on cylinders. I haven't ruined one yet . Electric motor with a shaft adaptor. That first wire brush is very fine to remove crud from the outside of the cylinder and remove any gasket material from the base of a cylinder and also to clean other small parts. I finish with hand sanding. Next comes the drill chucks to add things like fine grit flap wheels , mandrels if need be and that fine wire brush on the end to clean up the squish and combustion chamber, around plug hole and decomp hole . I still haven't gotten around to putting a on -off switch in the lead in line . I just plug it in. The motor spins faster than a drill but not so fast to ruin a cylinder . The motor doesn't spin true like a lathe with all these attachments so you need to go slow and easy with a light touch. I like it . Basically it does the bulk of the work and then I finish with the drills and red Sotchbrite like most people do. View attachment 800296

Very creative! I like the brush wheel for external cleaning.

 

[Ax-man]

I like that . I have a couple of different motors and speeds set-up similar to yours for doing different tasks for wood working and metal work

 

[Ax-man]

I was out guy shopping the other day and bought this thinking it would be handy to hold cylinders in different positions to clean them with a drill. I am on a porting kick lately and thought this might be handy. I don't how practical it would be to have something like this but it does work from what little I played around with it. It was under $20 at the local Menards so that is why I bought it for what little use I will be using it for and just to have another chainsaw repair toy in the shop.

The jaws expand out to 4" which is ample for many cylinders and it also came with the soft jaw padding. After removing a couple of screws you can put that drill clamp on it to do polishing work with a drill. Don't really need to do that but it is kind of different.

 

[chipper1]

I was out guy shopping the other day and bought this thinking it would be handy to hold cylinders in different positions to clean them with a drill. I don't how practical it would be to have something like this but it does work from what little I played around with it. It was under $20 at the local Menards so that is why I bought it for what little use I will be using it for and just to have another chainsaw repair toy in the shop.

The jaws expand out to 4" which is ample for many cylinders and it also came with the soft jaw padding. After removing a couple of screws you can put that drill clamp on it to do polishing work with a drill. Don't really need to do that but it is kind of different.

View attachment 803472

Looking at the picture of the drill in the clamp your cord may get a little tangled using that setup.

 

[Ax-man]

Could happen , I dunno , time will tell . I doubt I ever use that clamp for a drill because they are slow but the vice looks handy.

 

[chipper1]

Could happen , I dunno , time will tell . I doubt I ever use that clamp for a drill because they are slow but the vice looks handy.

The picture looks as though the clamp is on the chuck of the drill.