How to prune a Japanese Maple that is growing great!

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mesh2011

ArboristSite Lurker
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TN
Hello,

I have a Japanese maple (see pictures) that has been growing very, very well and is now starting to cover some of our bushes (which never grew that well, for some reason).

Anyhow, I'm looking for suggestions on how to prune this tree. I love this tree and don't want to hurt it... I've only done some simple "weighing" of limbs to date and almost no pruning since we purchased it about 3 years ago...

thank you very much,

Matthew
 
Cutting back a $500 tree to clear $5 bushes seems a bit...inadvisable.

If the bushes are not growing well, why not dig them up and move them to line the sidewalk?
 
I have some questions coz I'm not from around your part of the globe.

What's that big green guy at the back in the corner?

Does it have sufficient room to grow?

What is the Ht and Spread of the species at maturity?

What is the root system like at that proximity to structures?

Just seems a little tight in there for it.

Oh, I know nothing about Japanese Maple, I take it it's the little redish coloured guy at the front, looks like some sort of shrub you could hedge not a tree .... it's the guy at the back that may need some pruning though.
 
I would love to prune that

Man, I havn't pruned anything like a jap maple in awhile.
i would love to prune that!
I miss working in neighborhoods like that.
variety is the spice of life.

If you dont know how to prune that then don't
it's too nice of a tree to frack up.

if you really want to though check out any pruning book...there are some really good ones out there.

there are only a few basic rules, the rest is applcation of them.
send pics if you prune it.
 
Cutting back a $500 tree to clear $5 bushes seems a bit...inadvisable

I completely agree!

I forgot the most important reason we are asking about this: since the tree limbs and leafs are now touching the ground... will that increase the chance of disease or other problems??

I love this tree... so I'm in no hurry to prune.

Another person asked about getting a pruning book: we have one, but it doesn't have any information about Japanese Maples like this one.

thanks,

Matthew
 
I have some questions coz I'm not from around your part of the globe.

What's that big green guy at the back in the corner?


Those are three European Cranberries bushes. We cut those back heavily every fall. They grow like mad. Nice white flowers in Spring and then red berries later...

I couldn't even begin to answer your other questions! Sorry...

best regards,

Matthew
 
Ekka,s a nuisance, so many questions! He's encouragin gyou to slow down and LOOK at the tree before you change it for the worse forever. The important one is mature size; so you know the name of the cultivar?

pm/email Elmore here, he grows em.

As for branches touching the ground, I think this plant is adapted to that. You don't have to "limb it up" (Raise Cain with the tree) for it to be healthy.

If it's wider than you want you can cut it back; see the Pruning info in the link below
 
It doesn't look to need pruning. I would leave it alone but would prune and/or relocate the neighboring shrubs to accommodate the growth habit of this Japanese Maple. You may have to take down that wall...heh heh...just kidding.
 
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Elmore any guess to cultivar or "group"--dissecta procumbens or ?--and therefore mature size?

Will they layer--grow roots where branches touch the soil?
 
First spend a good amount of time examining the branch structure. (lay down underneath it for 10-20 min.) You will notice four directions of branches. Up down and side to side. Basicly you prune off the top and bottom branches. The ones that grow up form the branch and the ones that gorw down from the branch. It is not advisable to take anything off the top of the plant because you can burn the limbs by letting the sun in to much. Also remove the dead. You can usually just break off the dead with your fingers.
That is how. But It won't hurt it not too. I prune one like all the time. I take a barrel full of limbs each year. But I prune it to shape more or less. The shape of that one is extrodinary.
It will outgrow that spot in time. That plant can get over 20' feet wide. If borers don't get to it first. If its been in there for over 5 years I would leave it or hire somebody with a machine to move it. Someone with some experience. If you planted it more recently(dosn't look like it) dig it up and give it more room. Otherwise let grow right there it will be fine. It'll just have it's back up agianst the wall. Some nice 'juniperus procumbens nana' would look nice under that plant.
 
One more thing. I also have one( meaning I take care of one for a customer) like that one, in which I don't prune. Had a conversation with the customer just the other day about pruning it. They asked me to (prune it) and I said, I tried but there wasn't anything I could do to it to make it better. This tree is a little tighter growth and a little darked red than yours but the branches are doing the same thing. The customer is concerned about bugs using the branches touching the ground as a latter I guess. To the best of my knowledge the only bug that does real damage to a jap maple is a borer. So the best thing for you is look at the other shrubs for borers. They finish one plant and move onto the next. They like rhododendrons and dogwoods for two plants I know of. There isn't much you can do to get rid of borers than cut out damaged wood and take it away. I would just remove the dead.
 
I on't think breaking dead off with your fingers is good. I see people do that, and often they peal off cambium. use Bonzai shears or hand pruners.
 
Acer palmatum dissectum atropurpureum

treeseer said:
Elmore any guess to cultivar or "group"--dissecta procumbens or ?--and therefore mature size?

Will they layer--grow roots where branches touch the soil?

Cultivar? No...could be 'Tamukeyama', 'Crimson Queen', 'Garnet' etc.. Would have to see leaf close up and even then it would just be an educated guess.
I have some of the same cultivar, grafted from wood off the same tree and sometimes they look different. 'Tamukeyama' is a good one, has that color and the leaf is a little courser than say a 'Crimon Queen' or an 'Inaba shidare'.
'Tamukeyama' is said to get 12'x12'. 'Crimson Queen', 10'x10'. 'Garnet' seems to have a low profile, low and wide. 'Orangeola' is said to be one of the smaller of the red dissectums at 6'. These sizes that I give here are what you find in the books. As Adrpk stated they can, under good conditions, grow larger. I have heard of some 20' to 25' 'Tamukeyama' around Portland, OR.
 
Where in TN are you? im in knoxville and would be happy to help you out.
you can pm me if you are interested in pruning this just a bit. i work for a dude who has 2 of these about the same size and i just did some light trimming on them. he was very happy with how it turned out. however, i would most likely agree that moving the shurbs would be a good idea. let me know and we can discuss this matter more.

mesh2011 said:
Hello,

I have a Japanese maple (see pictures) that has been growing very, very well and is now starting to cover some of our bushes (which never grew that well, for some reason).

Anyhow, I'm looking for suggestions on how to prune this tree. I love this tree and don't want to hurt it... I've only done some simple "weighing" of limbs to date and almost no pruning since we purchased it about 3 years ago...

thank you very much,

Matthew
 
mesh2011 said:
Hello,

I have a Japanese maple (see pictures) that has been growing very, very well and is now starting to cover some of our bushes (which never grew that well, for some reason).

Anyhow, I'm looking for suggestions on how to prune this tree. I love this tree and don't want to hurt it... I've only done some simple "weighing" of limbs to date and almost no pruning since we purchased it about 3 years ago...

thank you very much,

Matthew

Hi Matthew, The best advice i can give on how to prune this tree is....DONT.
They do not respond well to pruning wounds when removing/shortening larger branches and if done incorrectly will decay extensively. It also ruins their graceful habit. I see no reason why the tree itself needs pruning. If you only concern is it covering the other small less significant shrub i would suggest transplanting the small shrub out from under the canopy, taking care not to damage its but more importantly the maples roots.

Then sit back and enjoy the tree you love knowing you haven't done any uneccesary harm to it.

Trev
 
trevmcrev said:
Hi Matthew, The best advice i can give on how to prune this tree is....DONT.
<<SNIP>>
Then sit back and enjoy the tree you love knowing you haven't done any uneccesary harm to it.

Trev

Thanks again to everyone for the great and useful responses.

My original message simply wasn't reflecting my concerns correctly. I was more worried about the fact that the tree limbs are now touching the ground. Thankfully, this doesn't appear to be a problem to the experts on this group.

I'll worry again in a few years if the tree is hitting the sidewalk! :clap:

Further FYI:

Sorry, I thought Ekka's questions were regarding the Cranberry bushes.
I'm afriad I don't know the exact type of Japanese maple. Lace Leaf is all we know.

Also, the nursury person helped us pick this tree out and the surrounding bushes, based on the size of the area. Perhaps the gentleman underestimated the growth rate of this tree. It has been in this location for 3-4 years now and just grows faster each year. All we do is water it from time to time with a soaker hose we have strung around that bed area. I think I may have put some fertilizer under the tree once or twice.

Thanks to Adrpk for the very interesting approach to checking the tree.

To jrizman: Sorry, I do live in TN, but don't trust the internet enough to reveal my exact location. Thank you for your offer.

thanks again to everyone,
 
mesh2011 said:
To jrizman: Sorry, I do live in TN, but don't trust the internet enough to reveal my exact location. Thank you for your offer.

well, im a grad student at ut and do some side work for a few locals. i have references and would be happy to help out if you wanna PM me.
good luck
 
I have to say, I think trevmcrev's warnings of extensive decay and doom are a bit alarmist. Done well, most of those maples respond fine to proper pruning, and can look less like Cousin It. You can see more of the graceful branch structure throughout the year. However, I'd say most homeowners should stay away from trying, it isn't easy to do those well. I worked on one not much bigger than that size last week, and it took nearly an hour of nitpicky pruning cuts and pondering to get it done. You might be better off just leaving it alone.
 
I carefully went over one with my felcos reduced it all back as it had gotten way to big for the patio it was on and it half died! i think thats maybe becouse she moved the large tub it was in to a more sunny position though.

I have one in my garden and ive moved it so it now so it misses the afternoon sun and now has shade and it's healthier than ever.
I have also seen ones that have had large bits sawn out by over enthusiastic pruning and attacked with shears, ironically they now look fuller and healthier than most ive seen certainly more than the one i did with my felco's!
 
matty f said:
I have also seen ones that have had large bits sawn out by over enthusiastic pruning and attacked with shears, ironically they now look fuller and healthier than most ive seen certainly more than the one i did with my felco's!

don't be deceived by flushes of leaves. Look at the structure in the winter and imagine it in the future to get an idea of its true condition.
 

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