My husky ne346xp seems a little cold blooded when first starting it up and doesn't want to take the throttle right away so I thought I would try opening up the Hi mixture screw just a little counter-clockwise to rich up the mixture . It seems backwards but there as rich as the stops will let it go , I can turn them 1/2 a turn in which would be leaner but there out as far as they can go , if there there to stop someone from setting them to lean this wouldn't work , Am I missing something or is this the way there set-up ??
husky mixture screw stops ??
- Thread starter chugbug
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phantom
ArboristSite Lurker
clear your schedule for a couple days and do a search for carb limiter caps
have fun!!
have fun!!
They are actually on there to keep the carb from being set to rich due to emission standards. To adjust the carb properly if out of adjustment, they need to be removed, the carb adjusted, then put back on.
CentaurG2
Addicted to ArboristSite
Acceleration of the saw has more to do with the L screw than the H screw. If the saw is under warrantee, bring it back to the dealer for a tune up. If it is outside the warrantee, get a tach before you go twiddling with it. You might do a lot more harm than good.
OK Brad , that makes sense then , I thought they were used to stop somebody from setting them to lean and ruining a saw !! I guess environment first !!
I have tried to read alot of the posts on the limiters but didn't know they could be removed without breaking them and then replace them later.
I probably won't mess with them for now as the cold blooded problem is probably normal and the spark plug looks perfect , just wondering about the limiters.
I have tried to read alot of the posts on the limiters but didn't know they could be removed without breaking them and then replace them later.
I probably won't mess with them for now as the cold blooded problem is probably normal and the spark plug looks perfect , just wondering about the limiters.
Chaz1
ArboristSite Operative
Here's a hint for starting your saw. Use your primer bulb. Three or pumps uually does it for me. Pull recoil until it fires then shut off the choke. It should fire right up but wait, here is the important part. Let it run at the fast idle for 20-30 seconds. Maybe even a little less. Then you can "rap" the throttle to idle it back down and you should be off and running.
Got this tip from a logging friend who has the same saw. Works great for me. Good luck and enjoy.
Got this tip from a logging friend who has the same saw. Works great for me. Good luck and enjoy.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Try to set as full rich as the limiters will allow on both needles. My 345, that's what I did, and it runs great.
Thanks for the replies guys, The limiters are set as rich as they will go and were set that way when I got it from the dealer, I double checked when this problem started . I've always knocked the hi idle off as soon as I can on all my saws because I don't like a cold engine running at full throttle right off the bat , seems like it would be hard on all the internal parts. The saw starts good , I pump the primer bulb at least 3or4 times and with-in 3 or 4 pulls its up and running , its after the engine is running that it won't take the throttle for a while . I think I just need to be more patient and let the engine warm up a little at idle after it starts .
Chaz1
ArboristSite Operative
That's exactly what you need to do.Let it warm up for a few seconds. I live only 20miles from the Canadian border at the very top of NY. It's cold here!!! My saw acted the same as yours. As my buddy instructed me. Let it warm up at fast idle. That's why that fast idle is there,
it designed to do just that. It works great. I would think playing with the carb is unnecessary. Try it and get back if you would. Good luck. Chuck
neely
Addicted to ArboristSite
try a hotter plug or regap .010 wider hotter spark wil stop problem most of the time
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