026 Pro Issues

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I just bought a used 026 Pro. It has a WT426 carb. I understand this is a good carb for the saw and it's not the original on this saw. How do you start the thing without a choke? Also, idle on the saw is very erratic. Sometimes it will idle but most of the time it will not. The saw has been checked for air leaks. Do I just need to rebuild the carb?
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Did they ever come without a stop switch? Mine doesn't even have the wiring you'd expect. The tank is a replacment for a MS 260. Should the stop switch setup be the same?
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sorry to break it to ya but thats probably why they sold it. (because it was hard to start) they may have wanted to try and make a somewhat souped up saw but just couldnt get it done. your best bet is to rebuild the carb in my opinion. but you can make a homemade choke if your more into that.

;)
 
blsnelling said:
I just bought a used 026 Pro. idle on the saw is very erratic. Sometimes it will idle but most of the time it will not. The saw has been checked for air leaks.

A poor idle can be caused from a number of things, an air leak being one. If you tested the saw and do not have an air leak, I would suspect your impulse hose.

blsnelling said:
Did they ever come without a stop switch? Mine doesn't even have the wiring you'd expect. The tank is a replacment for a MS 260. Should the stop switch setup be the same?

I see the kill switch in each picture you posted, AND the grounding tab on the coil. If you need to shut the saw off, just choke it...oh wait, no choke :cry:
 
the choke is in the air filter for the 026, also for the kill switch to work all you need is the wiring from a stihl dealer.

"wiring harness" Stihl PN 1121 440 3002

the Pro air filter is Stihl PN 1121 120 1618
you will also need an o-ring to seal the round compensator port on the carb, Stihl PN 9645 945 7485 (thats an 8x2.5 if you want a universal)
 
Factory

Why don't you just get the parts you need and put the dang thing back to stock dude? Seems like if your going to be using it on a somewhat daily basis or more frequently it'd save you some headaches eh? Just a thought
 
I see what you're talking about on only needing the two wires to make the kill switch functional?

How's this choke work in the air filter? There's no linkage or any mechanism there?

Got a part# for the carb kit?

Are you referring to the fuel line as the impulse line. Sorry, this is the first saw I've worked on like this.

I appreciate all you guys help. My dealer doesn't seem to bright on finding these part numbers. I've had to supply them with a couple now.
 
The choke is in the air filter. Should see a black or in some cases dark brown lever sticking out the bottom right corner of air filter. If you open the filter you'll see when lever is pulled to rear it pivots a flapper over the air outtake/carb intake on filter.

On the saw body look at your single control lever(kill switch). Look into air box, on the horizontal bar to the left is where your kill switch(coil ground out)wire will go(notice metal ground strap). On the right side of this bar is a pointed protrusion (1/3"?), that and the small lever on the air filter is your choke "linkage". By depressing the single control lever all the way down, "choke on", one step up "high idle", tap throttle trigger "Idle", move control lever up one more stop, "kill switch".

Did that make any sense??:confused: I hope so, it's been awhile since I've played with a 026, but have several 028s and they are similar.
 
Upon inspection of your photos, it appears you just need the wire installed to make your "kill switch" work. I can see the tab on coil, ground strap in air box and holder on control lever for contact. Simple, five minute fix.

BTW if you're not familiar with Stihl's single control lever operation and starting this is what I normally do. Lever all the way down "choke", two-three pulls until saw fires. Move lever up one notch, "high idle". Pull one more time saw usually fires and runs at 1/2? throttle, chain spinning, be careful!! Next step is to simply squeeze throttle trigger and saw drops to "idle", no chain spin hopefully. I suppose you could physically move lever from high idle to idle, but squeezing trigger is usually easier. Finally up to top with lever should kill it, if you had the wire.:hmm3grin2orange: If you've used these Stihls before, sorry to :deadhorse:
 
blsnelling said:
I see what you're talking about on only needing the two wires to make the kill switch functional?

How's this choke work in the air filter? There's no linkage or any mechanism there?

Got a part# for the carb kit?

Are you referring to the fuel line as the impulse line. Sorry, this is the first saw I've worked on like this.

I appreciate all you guys help. My dealer doesn't seem to bright on finding these part numbers. I've had to supply them with a couple now.


How to start and 026 without a choke - stick your thumb in the carb hole :)

You need an IPL and a Service manual - someone on AS will give able to give you one..

The choke lever is operated by a tab on the right side of the throttle rod.

The carb kit is just a generic Walbro K10-WAT. The carb was one of the standard carbs on the 026 pro.

Before you bother rebuilding the carb, reset both the H&L screws to exactly one turn out and make very slight ajustments to the L (and LA) for idle. Impluse line or flywheel side crank seal are common issues on the 026.
 
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Just a thought, Lake can tell you for sure, but looking at the pictures, Ultra and I were noticing it looks like the air gap on the coil may be too wide. Take a piece of paper and fold it three times and see how tight it fits. If it's loose, adjust it untill it's tight on the papper at the magnets. Just an easy check.
Andy
 
I got everything put together as it should be and the engine still wouldn't idle. I found the air intake boot clamp loose but tightening it didn't help either. I finally disassembled the carb, blew everything out, and put it back together. I didn't really see anything wrong but it's running great now. I set the carb by ear and took it to the dealer today. He put a tach on it and, amazingly, it was at exactly 14K RPMs. I felt pretty good about myself at that point:rock: I also got the new wiring harness installed. It's ready to go earn it's keep now.
 
Good job! Give yourself a pat on the back. Feels good to solve your own problems.:yoyo: Hope it performs well for you.
 
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