026...Race locked on bearing

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Bowtie

Gearhead
Joined
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Worked on another AS member's 026 today. Failed pressure test, so we tore it down. Went to split the case, and the race and bearing came out together. I think I have read here that that isnt fixable. Has anyone had this happen? It looks like the race had turned in the case as well, and the bearing cage is gone (nylon), and One ball is gone from the bearing.

Will post pics in a few minutes.
 
Depends....

If the replacement bearing is actually loose in the case (unusual in an 026) - 4 tiny dimples in the case with a center punch and some red loctite - will last another 20 years.
 
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Depends....

If the replacement bearing is actually loose in the case (unusual in an 026) - 4 tiny dimples in the case with a center punch and some red loctite - will last another 20 years.

I didnt totally understand what you meant "If the replacement bearing is actually loose in the case". Do you mean the replacement race?
 
You don't replace a race - you replace a bearing.

The case looks o.k. to me. try pressing in a new bearing. You'll soon know if you need to work it a little.
 
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I didnt totally understand what you meant "If the replacement bearing is actually loose in the case". Do you mean the replacement race?

I think thats what he ment, that's how i took it any way. Just take a center punch and put a 1/2 dozen or so dimples in the case IF the new race doesn't fit properly. If you do have to "punch" the case, just make sure they are spaced equally apart.

The new race should fit ok. When a bearing goes bad it can actually heat up the race so much that it will shrink some, thus the race starts to spin. Seen it in rear-ends alot. A good trick to getting races out is run a bead of weld on the race, and it will fall right out.
 
The race is locked on to the bearing...still on the crankshaft, as shown in the pics.. Im going to have to figure out how to get the race off the bearing, and the bearing off the crank. I have the Stihl AS and ZS tools, but that doesnt help pulling a bearing and race.
 
Dead easy.. just use a bearing puller or a chicom 3 jaw set up for 2 jaw. I've pulled of many like this....

Ok, I understand. I will try to find something with small enough jaws to fit between the race and crank...or improvise something.

I was trying to fix this saw for a very nice guy, and couldnt help but feel bad when we realized the worst outcome was at hand. He told me to keep the saw and I couldnt talk him out of it. Has a new piston, cylinder, crank seal pair, fuel line, impulse line, case gasket, base gasket, muffler gasket. The only thing he took was the bar and chain. This guy was super nice, and I want to get this thing fixed, and I hope to get it back to him.
 
Dead easy.. just use a bearing puller or a chicom 3 jaw set up for 2 jaw. I've pulled of many like this....

+1
It can help to space the balls fairly evenly and wedge them in place with some cardboard rolled up or something else soft between the balls when using the puller so the inside race gets a straighter pull off of the shaft.
 
+1
It can help to space the balls fairly evenly and wedge them in place with some cardboard rolled up or something else soft between the balls when using the puller so the inside race gets a straighter pull off of the shaft.


Good advice Pest,,,,, Rep for yas!!!!!!! U 2 bowtie cause you are a good dude for helpin your bud!!!!!
 
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When I'm pulling old bearings off the crank, I put the crank on the back of the wood stove. A little heat goes a long ways towards getting those old bearings off. This is especially helpful on the older saws- Macs, Homies, Pull-ons, etc.
 
You can "rent" the small 2-3 jaw puller at Autozone.Did it last weekend,you pay a deposit,in this case $30 plus tax,take home and use it,bring it back for a full refund.I had to lube up the one I got since it had been used dry and was pretty stiff to turn,use 90 weight gear oil,STP or something on that order.The little dimple in the end of the crankshaft will match up with the center bolt on the puller.

After looking at your pictures again,you really don't have a lot of room to work between the counterweight and the outer race of the bearing.You will need to use a punch or chisel to move it off the counterweight to gain enough clearance for the puller to grip the bearing.

What Lake was referring to as to the terms race vs. bearing is that the whole unit is called a bearing.The outside steel ring is the outer race,the inside steel ring is the inner race and the moving parts in the middle,in this case balls, are the "bearings" since they bear the weight or stress for the unit as a whole.Does that make sense?
 
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When I'm pulling old bearings off the crank, I put the crank on the back of the wood stove. A little heat goes a long ways towards getting those old bearings off. This is especially helpful on the older saws- Macs, Homies, Pull-ons, etc.

HaHA!! Worked awesome. Bearing is off. I used a mapp gas torch (gently). Time to get new bearings ordered. I pressed out the other crank bearing with a socket, wood blocks and my vise.
 
What Lake was referring to as to the terms race vs. bearing is that the whole unit is called a bearing.The outside steel ring is the outer race,the inside steel ring is the inner race and the moving parts in the middle,in this case balls, are the "bearings" since they bear the weight or stress for the unit as a whole.Does that make sense?

Yep, makes sense. I guess you can call it a stepped bearing or something. It has a lip on the outside of the bearing. I thought that was a race that was removable. i just need new bearings.
 
Can you read the numbers on the inner race? If so,you can order them online for about $5 to $6 each.The numbers may look something like 6202 C3
 
After looking at your pictures again,you really don't have a lot of room to work between the counterweight and the outer race of the bearing.You will need to use a punch or chisel to move it off the counterweight to gain enough clearance for the puller to grip the bearing.

?

There isn't much room on an 026 but you can do it with a puller without too much trouble -no need to move it away from the crank lobe first.
 
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