The 028 is a great saw, it's heavier and a little slower than the 026 but it does make more torque. The 026 is lighter, higher revving, easier to find parts for, easy to work on not that the 028 isn't easy to work on. Either would be a good saw but I would lean toward the 026, I have one of each and much prefer the 026.
026 vs 028 For First Saw
- Thread starter Courage
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Courage
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey guys, I might have found a saw... Just wanted your opinions. It's a Stihl MS260 Pro. He was asking $400, but came down to $300. He says compression is fair to good, but he hasn't done a compression test on it. Does the price seem right or would you keep on looking? Also, we've always had 0 series saws with the old school flat head screw driver fuel and oil caps. Do you guys like the new style that are on the MS series? Here's a picture of the saw. Thanks for all of your help!
Flippy caps are a love hate thing, some guys love them, some tolerate them, others refuse to own a saw with them. I'm personally indifferent to them, as long as you put them on properly I think they're fine, in 10 years I've had an issue once where I didn't get a cap on completely and it dumped my bar oil out.
I'd say for $300 if the saw has good compression and starts, runs and idles well and doesn't have cracked up parts then it's not a bad deal. A quick and easy compression test is to pick the saw up by the starter handle, the starter should pull out slowly as the saw drops and you should definitely feel a bump every time the engine turns over. If the saw drops quickly or you don't feel the bumps then it's likely it needs at least rings and a piston.
I'd say for $300 if the saw has good compression and starts, runs and idles well and doesn't have cracked up parts then it's not a bad deal. A quick and easy compression test is to pick the saw up by the starter handle, the starter should pull out slowly as the saw drops and you should definitely feel a bump every time the engine turns over. If the saw drops quickly or you don't feel the bumps then it's likely it needs at least rings and a piston.
Be patient. Find one that is pristine.
Husky 353's and Jonsered 2152's are really nice saws, can be had for less money, and can be converted to the hotrod 346/2153 if you wish.
"fair to good compression"? The owner knows it's worn out and is telling you that. He's being fair by telling you, in a roundabout way, that it is a high hour saw. You can get a low hour saw for the same money. Be patient. Look at other brands too.
try to find handy homeowner with a lightly used unit.
PS, flippy caps are an answer to a problem that didn't exist. They work ok, but occasionally fail.
Husky 353's and Jonsered 2152's are really nice saws, can be had for less money, and can be converted to the hotrod 346/2153 if you wish.
"fair to good compression"? The owner knows it's worn out and is telling you that. He's being fair by telling you, in a roundabout way, that it is a high hour saw. You can get a low hour saw for the same money. Be patient. Look at other brands too.
try to find handy homeowner with a lightly used unit.
PS, flippy caps are an answer to a problem that didn't exist. They work ok, but occasionally fail.
Hickahollar
ArboristSite Operative
What are you wanting the chainsaw to do? For $300 I'd buy a ms250 or ms270or271 if I was only going to use it for firewood. I've cut many loads of firewood for me and other people with just my ms250 and a lot of the trees were 20inches or bigger but at the time it was my only saw. Mine has been flawless for 6 years and about 40 cord of wood. I use abou 2 or 3 cord a year the rest I sell or give to my mom for her outside stove so I use it throughout the whole year.
My 2 cents. Take that money and buy an Echo CS-590. Absolutely cannot beat that saw in terms of features vs price. Also they have a 5 year warranty. Now it does have some weight compared to the 026 and 028.
I just did a MM on my 026 Pro. Instead of drilling holes I made a long rectangular opening. Basically opened up that rectangular stamping where the original piss hole was. Definitely woke it up.
I've done that too. Just makes them louder with not much more gain in performance.
Good suggestion. Good saw. Though not nearly as satisfying to run as a decent "pro" saw. The powerband is uninspiring, but very adequate for bucking decent sized wood. I describe them as "workmanlike"; gets the job done in a nice way, but the lack of top-end power is a bit of a letdown when compared to the best pro saws. They are the best "farm" saw imo.
he wouldn't go wrong with a cs590, but for 300 bucks (maybe a touch more), a pristine 50-60 cc used pro saw is out there..
I keep suggesting a Husky 353 or Jonny 2152. Nice saws. Though not screamers, they rev good and have a great powerband for limbing and bucking. Plus they handle like a dream. Like a Husky...
It's louder for sure but not overly so. I did notice a good bump in performance. Certainly worth 20 minutes of my time with a die grinder.
Yeah I connected all the little holes together into a rectangle in a 026 I used to have. I thought it made for a bit better throttle response as well. It was a strong little saw.
One thing to consider about the 028. It was made a looong time, starting from late '70s. Not all of them have chain brake. At some stage it was optional so you could buy a new saw with or without the brake. Recently I was looking at a 028 AV Super and that one didn't have one either. I would not buy a chain saw without operational brake for daily or even frequent use nowadays. I consider it a good safety feature.
I also looked into retrofitting the brake as it was optional at some point. The part numbers are available here in the forum. But, after looking for the parts, which might not be easily available, I came to conclusion it adds unnecessary cost to the saw. Also there are 2 versions of the brake and each version fits only certain saws. So, there is a possibility to buy a wrong parts for the saw in hand. Much easier and more cost effective to buy one with the brake fitted already.
I also looked into retrofitting the brake as it was optional at some point. The part numbers are available here in the forum. But, after looking for the parts, which might not be easily available, I came to conclusion it adds unnecessary cost to the saw. Also there are 2 versions of the brake and each version fits only certain saws. So, there is a possibility to buy a wrong parts for the saw in hand. Much easier and more cost effective to buy one with the brake fitted already.
This post shows the variations TonyCH mention:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-028-chain-brake-or-no-brake.132057/post-7614383
Courage try the field compression test. Hold the saw up by the starter handle. If it easily lowers then compression is not real good.
Courage
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello, I took your guys' advice and passed on that 026. I've been looking at all of the different brands that you guys have recommended, but haven't found any. I did find a Stihl Ms261c. I know that some of you have recommended the ms261, but what does the c mean? Should I still go for it? He says it's only 2 years old and has only been used a couple of times. Is this saw one that is easy to rebuild? Parts availability? Also it has a chain tensioner that I have never seen before. Do you guys like this style of tensioner? Thanks so much for all of your help! I really appreciate it.
Courage
Courage
Assuming there is nothing wrong mechanically (if at all possible, you'd want to pull the muffler to check for scoring), that's not a bad price. I love my m-tronic MS261. The saw you're looking at is non m-tronic (a plus for some, minus for others) and has the "comfort" options - tool less chain adjuster and likely (can't see recoil side) the spring-assisted starter - another "feature" one either loves (saves my shoulder) or hates (gets between me and my machine). I'd pass on it, but others would leap at that price for those features.
Hickahollar
ArboristSite Operative
My first chainsaw I ever got was a ppb4218 poulan pro it cost me 160 dollars it's a 40ish cc saw it lasted me 10 years. If I had known what I know now about chainsaws I'd probably still have it I had to replace the carb once at 8 years and at the time I used ethanol gas. I knew it was going out because it was acting erratic but still ran. I was doing better financially so I bought my ms250. Never heard of husqvarna or echo. Well I killed my poulan fiddling around with the high and low jets not knowing what I was doing (I've since learned). Well I needed a 2nd saw so I bought a pl3314 for $112. Now that pl3314 needed a Lot of carb adjustments to get it running right. but since then it's been running fine I even muffler modded it. 17 inch white oak my stock ms250 cuts it in about 35 seconds. The poulan does it in 42 seconds. The poulan if properly taken care of will last a farmer/homeowner many years and was half the price of my ms250. I almost bought a poulan 5020 instead of my ms250. With 300 and no more I might consider a NEW 5020 poulan. Of the better brands new echo cs400, cs3510(I own), ms250/ 251,ms211 or a husqvarna in that price range. Extra 100 I'd get a cs590.
260/261 all the way to hell and back. I started with a 270, worked it too hard and it died. went to the 260 and never looked back. 3 series is too bulky, 440 is great for big wood. You need to decide between 260 or 280?
260 all the way. Although, and I don't know your money situation, the new 271 is currently priced around $430. A new 261 is around $700.
I didn't know that the 261 could come with a tool-less tensioner..??
