028 AV Super Wood Boss

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K5
 
In all saws the rubber mounts will eventually tear or break. In the case of your 028WB,the lower front mounts will get chain oil on them which softens them and they will be weakened and fail after a long time. It's good to sometimes spray a little degreaser on your saw and carefully powerwash it, try to remove nasty accumulated chain oil...Cover the air filter with a plastic bag to help prevent water in the motor. Makes the saw look nice too.
 
Looking for 18" B&C

I really wish Oregon made 3/8 Lo Pro bar to fit this saw in the 18" length. However, all they make it to is 16, sure I could run a cheap 18'' B&C chain combo that Oregon makes for the box store saws but I would really like to have the Pro 91 bar on this saw. I am just trying to keep from having so many different chains in the shop lol.

Does anybody have an 18" B&C chain they'd want to trade for my 16" B&C (all .325 pitch)

-K5
 
Stihl used to make a 3/8" conversion kit for the 028,so you could run 3/8" bar and chain on it,I had my Wood Boss equipped that way. I much prefer that to the smaller(And usually more expensive) .325 chain.
I would recommend anyone with an 028 to go with 3/8" chain.Then you have the choice of professional quality bars and sturdy chain,and not use the cheapo laminated bars.

I believe the conversion kit consisted of a 3/8"sprocket and matching oiler gear and cover.
I'm sure Stihl would still sell these kits.
 
Actually, Oregon sells a kit (available at Baileys) that coverts the saw from a spur sprocket to a rim sprocket. It has a new clutch drum, and gear that fits over it to drive the oiler gear. You can then buy a new rim that can be either 3/8 or .325. Its fairly inexpensive, and will let you run either without too much trouble.

I went with the .325 since thats what my 026 uses, and I figure its best to give me the option to swap between the two if I ever had to.
 
Vac test it. An air leak will give you high idle. Crank seals maybe?

Did you test that it holds vacuum too?

I finally got my hands on a vac tester and did some work to make one work on my saw. I used some sheet rubber about .125 thick I had lying around to make a muffler gasket. As for the intake, my thumb worked just fine.

Here is the rubber I used. I took a paint pen and marked out the exhaust gasket to mark my location to punch the holes. Then took some old brass I had laying around to punched out two holes.
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I was able to pull 20 in./HG and hold it with a very small drop of 2 in/HG over 2 min. Then I tested by Stihl's standard : "operate until a vacuum of .5 bar (7.25 psi)...to remain constant , or rise to no more than .3 bar (4.25 psi) within 20 seconds, it can be assumed that the oil seals are in good condition." I was able to meet that criteria as well.
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The vac pump I got came with a nice cone shaped plug that let me use the impulse line to pull vac on. I didn't have to hold it in either which was nice for keeping my hands free from holding it.

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Now it needs a pressure test. Looks like you've got an Actron vac tester. Does it have the valve that allows you to do a pressure test as well?

Good vac test doesn't necessarily mean a good pressure test as has been mentioned many times in many threads.

Also, you should turn the crank to different positions during several tests to get the most mileage out of your effort -- ensuring the crank seals are good all the way around. May sound like overkill, but again, mentioned many times in numerous threads on the same subject.

Don't stop now. We wanna see video!

edit: Re-read earlier traffic and forgot about your initial pressure testing. Sorry. They say the memory is the second thing to go...

Nice job.

Poge
 
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Pictures and Video

I promised pictures and video of the saw running. Here are two shots from tonight, we were cutting down a Ash Beetle infected tree. Video will be uploaded later tonight because it is going to take a bit.
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Good cuttin' little saw ya have there. But get some oil on that bar, dude! Looks to me like it was gettin' mighty warm.

:cheers:

Poge

I checked the saw today and I am getting oil to the chain. Plenty of it, or at least I am pretty sure as the level of oil seemed similar to the level of fuel. I THINK it is all rooster tail from that dry ash. Meh, I'll check the oil hole in the bar and run the saw with out the bar make 100% sure.
 
Good looking and running saw. The thread is an interesting read. I have the same saw in my shop for two years with a scored P & C waiting for me to get time to repair it. Tom
 
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