Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
New seals and upper ends on two of these saws. Low compression at 75 psi. Used cheapo Chinese parts. Other than OEM steel stuff is farm tech or Sara Zila parts any better. I am afraid I got what I paid for
029 woes
- Thread starter Romper
- Start date
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Go with meteor if your trying to pinch pennies or oem stihl parts, sawzilla sells hyway rebranded as proline. Stay away from aftermarket made in china parts unless you enjoy doing repairs over and over. Get the 039/ms390 kits for more power/displacement as they fit your saws without modification and use the same carb.
Broken rings likely
Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok do the 039 kits require a decompression valve? If so I guess I could ream out clearance in the engine cover for access. Thanks I will try Meteor on one of the two saws. Neither will get lots of hours put on them
plug the decomp hole unless you have bad shoulders, their not any harder to start than the 029 cylinder.
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Guru
Last 029 rebuild I did I used a meteor cylinder with caber rings and I pop up piston and it turned out real nice, but as far as cylinder quality goes I couldn't tell any difference between the meteor and the farmertec (holzfforma) cylinder. So if I did it again I wouldn't get the more expensive meteor cylinder just because of the price difference. I would still put caber rings and a pop up in that saw tho.
Sure you don't have a leak somewhere? You pressure/vac test it at all? Other than that like Lightning said put it apart and check your rings.
Decomp on that saw is pointless in my opinion they start really easy without them.
Sure you don't have a leak somewhere? You pressure/vac test it at all? Other than that like Lightning said put it apart and check your rings.
Decomp on that saw is pointless in my opinion they start really easy without them.
Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
Is a pop up piston n the same as a dome type for increased compression. I’ll give it a try without the decomp tomorrow. We supposedly have a good snow coming tonight. Thanks for your input.
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Guru
Ya pretty much they are just used for more compression
I forgot to mention like the others above I upgraded my 029 to a 039 cylinder. If your gonna go through the work to rebuild one of these you might as well put a big bore on it.
Another thing the 029/ms290 has one of the most restrictive mufflers out there make sure you open that thing up, you will probably gain more from opening the muffler than you would from doing anything else along on that saw.
I forgot to mention like the others above I upgraded my 029 to a 039 cylinder. If your gonna go through the work to rebuild one of these you might as well put a big bore on it.
Another thing the 029/ms290 has one of the most restrictive mufflers out there make sure you open that thing up, you will probably gain more from opening the muffler than you would from doing anything else along on that saw.
I would not be buying any new parts, yet.
TC suggests a leak test. +1 on that.
If the saw is tight, I would measure ring end gap once you have it apart.
Roy
TC suggests a leak test. +1 on that.
If the saw is tight, I would measure ring end gap once you have it apart.
Roy
PS: why did you replace the original cylinders?
Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
BOth we’re heavily scored
Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
Ya pretty much they are just used for more compression
I forgot to mention like the others above I upgraded my 029 to a 039 cylinder. If your gonna go through the work to rebuild one of these you might as well put a big bore on it.
Another thing the 029/ms290 has one of the most restrictive mufflers out there make sure you open that thing up, you will probably gain more from opening the muffler than you would from doing anything else along on that saw.
Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
Great input thanks a bunch
Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks. I will check ring end gap!!
Romper
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks I will check ring end gap
Not understanding pistons is shop 101 what with your D -grade. Pop-up and dome are 2 different terms for the same part. Kleenex, or Puffs? The concern should lie in your clear lack of knowledge as to engines......
These threads go on for months, as people continue to feel comfortable avoiding Google, for the sake of their ignorance.
If you are a mechanic, this is a mute point. If you aren't, you made poor choices in high school.
Moot.
I agree with the Meteor piston kit. They usually come with Caber rings. I also use OEM crank seals and wrist pin bearing. There are some things I personally won’t compromise with! My question is how long did the saw run before the failure? Some of the AM ( Farmertec ) are hit or miss in quality control. You definitely get what you pay for so cylinder inspection is a must. And don’t assume that the parts are clean just because they are new! As others have mentioned my concerns would be how and why did it fail! If you don’t know the root cause of the mishap it will fail again. If you do decide to open up the muffler you will have to retune the carburetor. I would also look at your squish when doing a new top end. I wouldn’t go less than .020. Everyone has an opinion on how to break in a new build so that can be brought up in a past or future inquiry. Lastly what fuel mix are you using? 50:1 or 40:1? I run a 40:1 mix in my Stihl 034S. I tune for the mix. The lower end I’m sure appreciates it! The piston and cylinder likes it. The extra oil aids the compression,not that it needs any help and it doesn’t smoke. I’m sure that this is also debatable but it works for me. I would Google a owners/operators manual for your particular “ O “ series saw and see what Stihl recommended at the time of manufacturing. And yep oil is far more superior now than it was back in the day but the saw was manufactured back in the day!
Ring end gap??? That’s one I haven’t heard before in reference to a chainsaw.
I sincerely hope you saw the humour, that is the back-bone of this forum. Now, enroll in a small engine class.
