030av mystery part

[ad8chd]

So my 030av wouldn’t run right. After months of phone calls I was ably to track down a rebuild for the tillotson carb (I’m in the mountains, amazon doesn’t come here) rebuilt and ran great for one tank. Now I’ve got no spark. I think it’s this things fault but I’m not sure what the hell this thing is. I was thinking condensor but I thought those only had two leads, and I can’t figure out how the spark plug lead would be on a condensor when it belongs on the coil. But this wasn’t behind my flywheel so how could it be a coil? It was installed incredibly inexpertly by the previous owner I’m assuming, Imagine a crimp connectior with a piece of speaker wire twisted on the terminal the other side of said speaker wire twisted onto that little nub of wire wrapped in electrical tape and then that other littler nub of wire went absolutely nowhere. I’m still scratching my head as to how the saw ever ran at all anyway here’s a picture of the thing, if anybody knows what I’m dealing with I would sure appreciate knowing as well. Thank you in advance.

 

[trains]

looks like a well and truly bodged kill wire, or short wire, ie it grounds out the coil and stops spark, ie its connected to the off switch.

look at the ipl for what is there on your saw, page 12/13

attached ipl for you to help.

 

[ad8chd]

looks like a well and truly bodged kill wire, or short wire, ie it grounds out the coil and stops spark, ie its connected to the off switch.

look at the ipl for what is there on your saw, page 12/13

attached ipl for you to help.

Thank you for the reply. You’ve answered one question (it is the coil) and opened up a handful more. I’m not completely hopeless when it comes to these small engines, this guy here is a little older than my knowledge goes. I got some studying to do. I don’t know that it’s my kill wire because the switch is still on there and it’s still got a good wire on it, which I don’t know if this is the original toggle switch or not, but it’s a three position switch so I don’t really know what that’s all about, does anybody know roundabout where the condenser would be located on this thing? Also, in that exploded view there’s what looks like it says a condenser, but I can’t really tell by looking at the drawing and a capacitor, I was under the impression that would only have one of those two things. Thanks again in advance, I really like this old saw it’s a beast. When it first started giving me trouble I brought it to the saw shop and he ran inspection camera, and the cylinder is like immaculate. He was thoroughly impressed with it. Probably because these guys run 32 to one instead of 50 thanks again to everybody. Hopefully I can get this sucker going before it gets too cold cause I don’t have any firewood.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The condenser is mounted under the flywheel along with the points if it is a points/condenser fired saw. The only one I have worked on was a points condenser fired saw, there may be electronic versions but not that I have seen. Just added a few words to clarify my answer to the OP.

 

[Old2stroke]

Looks like it’s a 2 part system with a trigger unit at the flywheel that sends spark energy to a separate coil that is just a transformer. If so, that butchered wire should connect the coil to the trigger unit #29. If you only have one small wire from the coil, you probably have the electronic coil and no breaker points or capacitor #8

 

[Old2stroke]

The diagram is confusing because it shows all the parts that MIGHT be there, if you go through the parts list, it looks like there are 2 versions as Pioneerguy600 said, an early model that has a trigger coil mounted against the flywheel, a high voltage coil and a set of breaker points and capacitor under the flywheel. The coil would have 2 small wires, one to the trigger coil and one to the breaker points, the kill switch would be connected to the capacitor/points. The newer model would have the electronic coil and the coil would only have one small wire going to the trigger coil, there would be no points or capacitor and the kill switch would be wired to the trigger unit. Easy to check, if there are no wires going under the flywheel, you have the electronic model.
Hard to tell from the photo but did there use to be a second small wire on the coil?

 

[ad8chd]

Thanks to all you guys, I had to do some pretty major surgery, but I got her done. I also learned what a couple more things are. it’s a little ugly and I didn’t have the right size shrink tube, but I did have a bunch of epoxy that I stuffed it with. It ain’t gonna last forever but it is what it is. I’m gonna have to look into getting a transistor ignition.

 

[cbfarmall]

Would the 030 have an electronic ignition? Usual fix for a bad trigger was to wire in an electronic chip and ditch the old trigger under the flywheel. Stihl used to sell this, might be some out there but expensive. There are other aftermarket options, such as a Nova chip. When I started with these, Atom modules were still being sold as replacements and they seemed reliable.

All of the above also goes for points ignition. Substitute the chip for the points and condenser.

Key thing with that chip is to install it away from heat, definitely not on the cylinder for example.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Does this saw have points and condenser? Seems like a strange setup with all these separate parts just to supply spark.

 

[Old2stroke]

It should have points and this would be a good time to remove the flywheel and clean and gap them to avoid problems down the road

 

[stihltech]

You need an ancient Stihltech for this one.
Saw a few of these as they were the predecessor of the 031. Do not recall any with electronic ignition that I saw.
2 wires on the coil. One is to the switch,but also connects to the points under the flywheel. The switch wire should be coming out of the case under the flywheel through a rubber grommet.
The other wire is the ground for the coil. It terminated on the coil laminations with a eye connector that was riveted to it.
One way to check for points under the flywheel is to remove one of the plastic plugs in the flywheel. loosen the center screw in the plug about 2 turns, but do not remove it. You will see a points and condenser. If you only see a black ring, then it is electronic.