031AV has spark but is it enough?

[Bushmans]

You can't set it to .016 without the factory tool anyway. The points lobe is on the hub of the flywheel. Stihl used to sell a cam just for setting 030/031/032 points, but it is NLA. You will have some trial and error ahead of you. I will look up the edge gap. There is a spec where the points start to open in relation to the N pole on the flywheel. That is the way you'll have to figure it out without the tool, or go 2.3mm from TDC, which is probably less accurate than the edge gap. If you have an Intertec manual, it is spelled out there.

Bummer. I figured you just put it at TDC and measured the gap while the point was open.
I cleaned it and set the gap at about a business card and put it all back together. Nothing. I don't even get spark on a grounded plug now like I did before. I suppose I'll just tell him he needs his points and condenser changed or switch to an electronic. He already had a replacement husky and this will sit on the shelf forever just like it is. With all the reading I have been doing it is not uncommon at all to have this problem on this saw.

Thanks for all the help anyways! Everyone!

 

[sefh3]

Don't give up just yet. Do you have a NAPA close by? They sell Atom or Nova ignitions for under $20. This will allow you to eliminate the points and condesor and will give you an electric setup. The 031 is a bit different but it's possible to do this.

 

[Bushmans]

Don't give up just yet. Do you have a NAPA close by? They sell Atom or Nova ignitions for under $20. This will allow you to eliminate the points and condesor and will give you an electric setup. The 031 is a bit different but it's possible to do this.

Yes we do. I'll present him with this option but of course he is not mechanically inclined I don't think because he just buys new when the old quits so I know he won't do it and the cost of a dealer doing it would probably be too much especially with the carb kit and all new rubber. Just maybe he'll want to get rid of it cheap. I don't really need it but you know how that goes.

 

[Saw Dr.]

You have to set the points with the flywheel ON. You have set nothing yet. You need to do it by the edge gap, or have the special tool, or swap to a nova. Right now your points are just hanging open in there. If it was sparking before, you don't need any parts. The points just need set. If you swap over, I'd be interested in the points setup, as I have an 031 here that someone botched the electronic conversion. I'd like to go back to points on that saw, but they were removed and discarded already.

 

[leeha]

Or take an old flywheel and knock the center out and you
have the tool needed to set the points. I installed the
mega fire modules in two 032's i had and they ran great
after that. Points and condensers are pricey for these saws.




Lee

 

[Saw Dr.]

Or take an old flywheel and knock the center out and you
have the tool needed to set the points. I installed the
mega fire modules in two 032's i had and they ran great
after that. Points and condensers are pricey for these saws.




Lee

That is a great idea. I have been looking for a points flywheel for an 031 to do just that for a couple of months. I suppose I could just ruin a good one, but I hate doing that. If I were looking for a perfect flywheel I'm sure there would be none around. Now I want one with a couple of busted fins, and they don't exist. Those old 032's run surprisingly well for what they are. Too bad the A/V bushings are almost always shot, and they cost as much as the running saw is worth.

 

[Bushmans]

You have to set the points with the flywheel ON. You have set nothing yet. You need to do it by the edge gap, or have the special tool, or swap to a nova. Right now your points are just hanging open in there. If it was sparking before, you don't need any parts. The points just need set. If you swap over, I'd be interested in the points setup, as I have an 031 here that someone botched the electronic conversion. I'd like to go back to points on that saw, but they were removed and discarded already.

Ok I'm clearly at a loss here. I have never worked on points before so let's get that straight if it isn't painfully obvious enough.
As the flywheel turns the points open and close. The underside of the flywheel is oblong sort of and the cam on the points mechanism rides on it. There are two screws that allow movement of the points. Opening and closing them. So if I have the flywheel on and rotate it until the points are open is that the measurement I'm looking for? This is what I did. I apologize for my ignorance but we all need to start somewhere.
I have no idea what an edge gap is.

 

[Saw Dr.]

There are two windings of wire inside that ignition coil. The primary and the secondary. With the points closed, the primary windings have current in them, and a magnetic field surrounding the windings. When the points open, the magnetic field collapses rapidly, and induces a current into the secondary windings. Those secondary windings have a spark plug on the end, and the spark must jump across in order to complete the circuit.

The most important thing here is the exact instant that the points OPEN. That is when the spark occurs. It is very easy to have some contamination in the points to where they are shorted and do not work properly. It MUST be surgically clean in there. You should put ONE drop of oil on the wiper felt. If the crank seal is leaking, it will foul the points very quickly causing much cursing. You'll need to get a multi meter, and set it to measure continuity. The flywheel will need to come on and off several times to get it right. Find where the points are opening (if they are) with the meter, and start adjusting from there. Once you dial in your first set of points and the saw fires up, you'll be quite amused. Points ignitions can throw a blue (knock you on your behind) spark at the speed you roll it over with your hand. If it does not, something is wrong. I wish you lived closer to me, so I could just come over and lay a wrench on it with you.

 

[Bushmans]

Ok after a few more adjustments I now have the spark back. Good blue spark. I did get it to pop one time but then I think it flooded. It is definatley getting fuel to the cylinder. I think just too much. It's not pouring out but after a few pulls I can smell the raw gas on the plug and if I stick a lighter in the plug hole it burns.

I would think a carb kit and a tune would rectify the situation. I gotta say I was pretty happy to get it to even pop one time. I've pulled on this so any times now I broke the pull cord!

I just have a hard time giving up on stuff.

What are your thoughts? If it popped one time should I just start right in on the carb? Is there anything else you can think of?

 

[sefh3]

Carb kit might not help. I would look at the metering lever on the carb. If it's set too high then it will flood it. Adjust it so the arm is even with the body of the carb.

 

[Bushmans]

Thanks Scott!
I pulled the carb apart already but I never made it to the metering valve because the gasket on that side was stuck on pretty good. I peeled it up just enough to have a look see but then put it back together. I think I'll order a carb kit for the guy and then I can really tear it down the right way and clean it and I'll have new stuff to put it back together again.
What would cause that to change?
I don't think this saw has ever been apart. Do they just go "out" on their own? Bad Gas? Sitting too long? (this saw has done a lot of that because the original bar still has the Stihl logo on it)

 

[MnSam]

Yes, the gaskets and parts in the carb do just go "out" on their own. Those parts could be pushing 40 years old if nobody's been into that carb but you. I'd say the other soft components on that saw should receive some eyeballing as well before it's used to cut wood again, such as the fuel line, impulse line, and boot. One other note, you really should make sure the saw is properly timed before any use. It is possible for the saw to run but not be accurately timed, which could supply poor performance and possibly even ruin the saw.

 

[MnSam]

By all means don't consider this saw a lost cause. The 031's are great saws, and it really sounds like that one shouldn't be too bad to bring around. And by the way, this thread really should have a picture of the saw your working on :msp_wink:

 

[Bushmans]

By all means don't consider this saw a lost cause. The 031's are great saws, and it really sounds like that one shouldn't be too bad to bring around. And by the way, this thread really should have a picture of the saw your working on :msp_wink:

Thanks for the info MNSAM didn't seem like anyone was too interested in the 031 so i didn't pop any pics. Poor thing. She is kinda growing on me. It does have nice balance and would make me a great utility or deer camp saw. Maybe I oughta offer the guy a few bucks for it.

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[flyboy]

Thanks for the info MNSAM didn't seem like anyone was too interested in the 031 so i didn't pop any pics. Poor thing. She is kinda growing on me. It does have nice balance and would make me a great utility or deer camp saw. Maybe I oughta offer the guy a few bucks for it.

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Holy Crap! That thing looks new.

 

[russhd1997]

Thanks for the info MNSAM didn't seem like anyone was too interested in the 031 so i didn't pop any pics. Poor thing. She is kinda growing on me. It does have nice balance and would make me a great utility or deer camp saw. Maybe I oughta offer the guy a few bucks for it.

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Wow! That's a nice looking saw. I cleaned mine all up and it still doesn't look as nice as that one. Do whatever it takes to get that saw running again. It's too nice to part out or junk.

 

[Bushmans]

I'm working on it. I'm kinda torn between offering the guy some money or just fixing it for him. I feel as though I am cheating him out of something by telling him what needs to be done to get it operational and then making an offer.
Like a swindler or something.
I don't know. I would have made a lousy car salesman. I know he has another saw and could care less about this one. I haven't checked ebay but what would this non running saw be worth. It needs a carb kit and all new rubber. I probably have 5 hours of work into this already. I think I would offer the guy $50. I've totaled up the parts and it equals around $80. That's $130 outta my pocket for this saw. Seems ok but I'll hardly ever use it. Stupid CAD. What would you guys pay? It has a case and extra chain as well.
I already have an 029 Super and an 044/046 Magnum.