It’s already missing plating on the bottom and top of the exhaust port. Both need opened up so that the plating at least reaches the edge of the port. Otherwise the rings are just gonna scrape more of it offYou can bevel it back with a Dremel tool and a little round grinder attachment. You just want to make sure it cannot snag a ring. Can't imagine any change in port timing would be significant.
Personally, I run a ball hone up in them a couple of seconds both ways with some WD40 sprayed on it. Wipe it out with a rag and you can get a better idea of what you are dealing with transfer and scratch wise. Then if you think it is transfer muratic acid will help desolve it. Carefully with a Dremel and a maybe 80 grit flapper you can get the aluminum out.
When it is all said and done you can see if you are satisfied or not. If you don't like the looks of it junk it. If you can get it slick as a baby's butt put a piston in it and go.
It’s already missing plating on the bottom and top of the exhaust port. Both need opened up so that the plating at least reaches the edge of the port. Otherwise the rings are just gonna scrape more of it off
It may be fine, I have no way of knowing. A little less concerning if it’s in the middle or one small spot. The way his is damaged in a large area off to the side would require some symmetry though. If you open up one side of the exhaust before the other, the ring locating pin will get hammered out in no timeYou only need to chamfer the part that is damaged. No law says the port has to be even.
I had an 026 given to me that had failed crank bearings.
When I got in to it somebody had tried to do a port job, I guess that's what it was anyway.
Pretty sure I posted a photo on here. Anyhow, it had a low spot maybe 1/8 inch. Nothing symmetrical about it. Saw ran great.