036 - Does this mean what I think?
- Thread starter fields_mj
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Possibly. Don't try to run it anymore or worse damage may occur. I highly recommend a pressure and vacuum test before you tear it apart.
Being off on the flywheel side corner, that can really only be carbon scoring. An air leak or lean tune would hit dead center or slightly off to the clutch side of the exhaust port
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Guru
Time to tear it down and look in the cylinder at least. You might get lucky and be able to clean the cylinder up and just put a new piston and rings in her.
Yeah, I wold be surprised if the cylinder can't be cleaned up nicely.
Does look more like carbon that turned loose than a lean condition.
But, either way the rings look like they might be catching a little.
Does look more like carbon that turned loose than a lean condition.
But, either way the rings look like they might be catching a little.
Roger that. I have a compression tester on the way but I don't have any way to do a vacuum test on it. Any thoughts on what could cause the carbon scoring? Obviously it's carbon buildup but what causes the excessive carbon buildup?
The upside, I've been wanting to put a pop-up piston in one of my 036 saws anyway
The upside, I've been wanting to put a pop-up piston in one of my 036 saws anyway
It looks to be running rich. Muffler is pretty greasy.
Piston don't look too bad.
Piston don't look too bad.
Shhh, I want that pop up piston...
I've always erred on the side of being too rich, so this makes sense. I'll clean the saw up and pull the jug to get a better look at the piston and rings (and the inside of the cylinder). As far as cleaning the junk out of the exhaust port, can I dunk it in some CLR for a few hours or would that likely cause other issues with the cylinder and/or plating? I suppose the other option there would be to just use a sanding drum on a Dremel at a low RPM which is probably safer.
Judging by the huge amount of carbon in the muffler…yup
Do the whole diagnosis. Might save a lot of money.
Take it apart and let's see in the 2 sides of the piston and cylinder.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
That doesn't really look like carbon scoring. It really looks like blowby possibly caused by stuck/worn out rings.
It looks like the OP has been running bad gas / bad oil or both.
Get yourself a mighty vac pressure and vacuum tester. Harbor freight sells something like that for under $100 as I recall. You need to know whether your seals are good or whether they need to be replaced. If you're seals are leaking, that might help explain why you have problems with the piston. No sense putting a new piston in without making sure the seals are good. Otherwise you might just tear up a brand new piston. O
Harbor Freight, MITYVAC $47.99 on line. O
Is there a good video somewhere that shows how to actually use one of those? To test a saw anyway? Looking at it on the website, I'm not seeing how I'd actually connect it to the saw without some kind of adapter which doesn't appear to be included.
This is all you need to know. O
OEM piston is better than any AM popup. You can get a machinist to make it a popup and surface the cylinder base. I'd just tighten squish up and do a muffler mod. Seals will come with a gasket set, change those and do a leakdown test.
You need to make blockoffs for the int/ex ports. Easy to do with an old inner tube and using the carb and muffler casing. The vac tester can be hooked up to the impulse line, or you can make an adapter from an old sparkplug. If it has a decomp replace that with a metal plug.
I think @Vintage Engine Repairs has a good video of doing the test. And Tom is not a hack mechanic often found on Boobtube.
So I need a $50 vacuum pump, a $20 grinder, $10 spark plug, $5 hose barb, $10 tube of JB weld, and a $10 sheet of gasket material to make sure I don't ruin a new $30 piston when my caked up, oily muffler would indicate that my tune is extremely rich? Not trying to be a jerk here, just trying to make sure I understand all the advice given.
So the piston in the pictures is AM?
I don't see how you can do a leakdown test without the equipment. The mix you are using and/or the carb tuning needs to be addressed.
Not sure what the grinder, jb weld and gasket material are for?
fields_mj,
No, you do not need all that. AND I see that you have 5 other saws that hmmm just might benefit from a health checkup too.
If you spend the $50 on the Mityvac, not only can you use it on this one 036 saw, but any of those others too, You can also use it to bleed brakes on cars, test weed wackers, and a host of other uses. It will be well worth the $50.
Now, you obviously don't NEED a grinder, spark plug, hose barb or JB WELD. However you will need a source of rubber unless you fork over money for Factory OEM block off plates. I have bought and used this type rubber to make seals for working on the cooling system of a BMW where I had to make a block off plate for the thermostat while flushing the system. Cheap enough even for the cheapest of Scotsman or bum on the street, $6-$8 will net you enough for chainsaws and other uses.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...bber-Packaging-Sheets-2-Pack-865450/318764128
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...bber-Packaging-Sheets-2-Pack-865650/318763518
Here is a video on the testing a saw that is older than yours, an 032. It may be a slightly different layout than an 036, but if you have some rubber and block off the exhaust and carb like shown in the first video that Overlooker posted, you will need to test through the spark plug hole. If you do it like in the video below, then just block off the exhaust, put a rubber stopper in the intake boot and clamp it off, then put the Vac tester in the end of the impulse line like shown. No need for the grinder etc.
No, you do not need all that. AND I see that you have 5 other saws that hmmm just might benefit from a health checkup too.
If you spend the $50 on the Mityvac, not only can you use it on this one 036 saw, but any of those others too, You can also use it to bleed brakes on cars, test weed wackers, and a host of other uses. It will be well worth the $50.
Now, you obviously don't NEED a grinder, spark plug, hose barb or JB WELD. However you will need a source of rubber unless you fork over money for Factory OEM block off plates. I have bought and used this type rubber to make seals for working on the cooling system of a BMW where I had to make a block off plate for the thermostat while flushing the system. Cheap enough even for the cheapest of Scotsman or bum on the street, $6-$8 will net you enough for chainsaws and other uses.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...bber-Packaging-Sheets-2-Pack-865450/318764128
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...bber-Packaging-Sheets-2-Pack-865650/318763518
Here is a video on the testing a saw that is older than yours, an 032. It may be a slightly different layout than an 036, but if you have some rubber and block off the exhaust and carb like shown in the first video that Overlooker posted, you will need to test through the spark plug hole. If you do it like in the video below, then just block off the exhaust, put a rubber stopper in the intake boot and clamp it off, then put the Vac tester in the end of the impulse line like shown. No need for the grinder etc.
