It's a 7.3 crewcab 4wd automatic. The crossmembers on the bed have mostly rusted off at this point. Frame is still okay, but that's more of a guess than a certainty at this point. I bought it used in 2017 from the original owner who lives about 3 miles from me, so it spend its entire life rusting away in Indiana and has never seen the inside of a garage unless it was getting worked on. Currently, I need to replace the passenger side brake caliper, and I really need to get the injectors rebuilt. It's starting to get hard to start, and has lost a lot of power. Previously I had a '93 F250 ext cab with the 7.3 IDI and a ZF5. I liked that truck a lot better. It was a MUCH rougher ride, but it had more grunt and took more abuse. The kids were getting big enough that the ext cab wasn't cutting it, she was getting long in the tooth, and the fuel pump went out again on it so I parked it. Ended up selling it to a guy from SC. He picked it up around 5pm, got it home (13hr drive) and had it running by 7:30 the next morning. He had a small fleet of the 6.9/7.3 trucks that he used the crap out of.
036 - Does this mean what I think?
- Thread starter fields_mj
- Start date
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From the exhaust side, those are about the best pics I can get. Having said that, I recently purchased a 100 ft camera to check out my sewer line. Haven't used it yet. Might be a good way to get a better look inside.
I already have another saw. The goal is to make this one the "next" another saw.
Try it, I was looking into getting a bore scope cam type thing too. I bet it will get us somewhere.
A 100 footer is quite a tool. I had some blocked drain piping off our kitchen sink. Short of getting the cam, I snaked it about 10x to no avail. I had to get old school and actually cut into the PVC pipes to manually unclog the elbow that had accumulated gunk in it. A previous homeowner had installed the wrong elbows and sanitary T's in the runs. And of course, it is a tight fit to cut out the old and piece in the proper pieces since the kitchen drains tie into the rear most bathroom shower drain, and it is between 2 sections of the house foundation beams and 2 sets of studs above that.
Having manually found the clog, I could see why the snake wasn't able to catch and clear any of the clog material. The snake was following the backwards sanitary T and going UP the vent section of pipe which of course was filling up with the backed up water that could not drain downstream in the tight bend 90 that needs a long sweep instead. No wonder the sink was draining slow or not at all.
Is this Taz 1 or Taz 2?
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1. The other was purchased as a backup.
My kitchen sink and dishwasher are 60 ft from where the sewer line exits the house, and they only have about 8" of room for drop in the line as it runs across the basement. After we had been in the house about 5 years, I was having drainage issues and found that the entire line was full of what looked like un-dissolved powdered dishwasher detergent. I cut the line every 10 ft and added a clean out. 10 years later it happened again, but it was WAY easier to start at the downstream side and just clean out 10 ft at a time.
About 10 years ago I had to have a new septic line installed. The line is cast iron where it leaves the basement, but immediately changed over to clay tile. Apparently, when they put the new line in, they left the first section of clay tile because they didn't want to dig all the way up against the basement wall where it could disturb things. Guess where the roots got into the line at... Bathroom toilet sits right beside the main line. When it started backing up into the bath tub last winter, I opened the clean out to see if the problem was in the house or outside. The clean out is only about 6 or 8 ft from the outside wall of the house and it was empty and spotless. I had to borrow a commercial snake to cut the root ball out. Impressive machine. Thankfully it was only about 6 feet into the line. I'm treating it annually with RootX now, but I think I'm going to fabricate something that would allow me to run that tool with a 1/2" drill or mixer for future needs. It's comical that my wife will complain about all my tools, but when I fixed THAT problem in 24 hrs (had to wait until the next day to go get the snake) without spending any money, all of the sudden I was a hero
YUP,My kitchen sink and dishwasher are 60 ft from where the sewer line exits the house, and they only have about 8" of room for drop in the line as it runs across the basement. After we had been in the house about 5 years, I was having drainage issues and found that the entire line was full of what looked like un-dissolved powdered dishwasher detergent. I cut the line every 10 ft and added a clean out. 10 years later it happened again, but it was WAY easier to start at the downstream side and just clean out 10 ft at a time.
About 10 years ago I had to have a new septic line installed. The line is cast iron where it leaves the basement, but immediately changed over to clay tile. Apparently, when they put the new line in, they left the first section of clay tile because they didn't want to dig all the way up against the basement wall where it could disturb things. Guess where the roots got into the line at... Bathroom toilet sits right beside the main line. When it started backing up into the bath tub last winter, I opened the clean out to see if the problem was in the house or outside. The clean out is only about 6 or 8 ft from the outside wall of the house and it was empty and spotless. I had to borrow a commercial snake to cut the root ball out. Impressive machine. Thankfully it was only about 6 feet into the line. I'm treating it annually with RootX now, but I think I'm going to fabricate something that would allow me to run that tool with a 1/2" drill or mixer for future needs. It's comical that my wife will complain about all my tools, but when I fixed THAT problem in 24 hrs (had to wait until the next day to go get the snake) without spending any money, all of the sudden I was a hero
Mine was very similar and I likely caused a bit of the clog trying the old home remedy of Baking soda and vinegar and hot water.
If the pipes were correctly installed, I likely would have had 0 clog. We use a screen over the drain to catch solids, and I do my best to minimize grease down the line.
I knew what you were going to say about where the roots came. Same scenario caused significant sewage damage in a lady friend from my school days house when her basement toilet over flowed for indeterminable time frame due to her laziness once she noticed a slow drain issue. I think all her sewage from 1st and 2nd floor was flooding her basement for weeks or longer till she got the nerve to ask my help. I told her she needed a plumber to snake out her main line of the roots. He did her a solid too.
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Guru
Like you said it's always best to Err on the side of caution and without having the saw in front of me I can't say 100% on anything. But if I was working on a saw and I was sure it was carbon that caused the issue I would not pressure/vac test it as time cost money as well but you have to be sure. If I was wrong and would end up warrantying it that sucks even more (extra time and money).
Aftermarket Pop up may give you 10psi more which won't really be noticeable and does change the flow from the transfer a little.
Machine work to the cylinder would run you about $100 bucks and you can put your compression at whatever you like which for that saw 200-225psi would be a good spot and really increase torque.
Now you said something about having to port it that may or may not be the case all depends on where your numbers are to start with but more than likely lowering the exhaust and intake is more in the direction you want to go anyways and it that case you don't need to port it if you don't want to.
I know everybody here recommends mightyvacs, but I'm still happy with my 20€ chinesium pressure/vacuum tester. Don't care if the gauge isn't 100% accurate, it's good enough.
Your 036 has an impulse line so you don't need to make the sparkplug adapter to pressure test it.
Ports can be blocked with inner tube rubber behind carb/muffler. Most tyre shops will give old tubes away if you ask.
Cylinder will likely clean up & a scotch pad on a mandrel will do fine to take the glaze off so rings seat.
If the damage pictured is the worst of it then I'd say you will get away with cleaning up the piston too (don't need to "remove" the damage, just take off any high spots).
New Caber rings as you mentioned & clean all that carbon up. Be carefull if using oven cleaner as it can damage aluminium.
I would start by measuring squish... you may find you can do a base gasket delete & gain a reasonable amount of compression there with very little effort. As Thompsoncustom said, lowering the ports by a fraction will likely do more good than harm too. Finish up with a muffler mod & I'm sure it will put a smile on your face when you run it.
Worst case scenario there are used or NOS cylinder kits floating around... I'd put one of Mad Professors 034 kits on it or see if Singinwoodwacker will send you a cylinder to clean up before putting a cheap cylinder on it or replacing it with a clone.
If it does need a piston preference always goes to OEM, then Meteor, then the aftermarket lottery. I'd only seriously consider a popup if squish was huge.
If you don't do a pressure/vac test before pulling it down it is still a must after assembly IMHO. If you get a cheap tester try & get one that does vac too (& do vac test first)
Ports can be blocked with inner tube rubber behind carb/muffler. Most tyre shops will give old tubes away if you ask.
Cylinder will likely clean up & a scotch pad on a mandrel will do fine to take the glaze off so rings seat.
If the damage pictured is the worst of it then I'd say you will get away with cleaning up the piston too (don't need to "remove" the damage, just take off any high spots).
New Caber rings as you mentioned & clean all that carbon up. Be carefull if using oven cleaner as it can damage aluminium.
I would start by measuring squish... you may find you can do a base gasket delete & gain a reasonable amount of compression there with very little effort. As Thompsoncustom said, lowering the ports by a fraction will likely do more good than harm too. Finish up with a muffler mod & I'm sure it will put a smile on your face when you run it.
Worst case scenario there are used or NOS cylinder kits floating around... I'd put one of Mad Professors 034 kits on it or see if Singinwoodwacker will send you a cylinder to clean up before putting a cheap cylinder on it or replacing it with a clone.
If it does need a piston preference always goes to OEM, then Meteor, then the aftermarket lottery. I'd only seriously consider a popup if squish was huge.
If you don't do a pressure/vac test before pulling it down it is still a must after assembly IMHO. If you get a cheap tester try & get one that does vac too (& do vac test first)
Nope You are wrong. About $200 USD
i'm done wit this one good luck
JD, Many readers in here may understand how to measure squish, but maybe the OP doesn't.
If I understand the process right, one step of it is to use a length of solder as one rotates the piston to the top.
Another factor of the improved performance process is the impact of judiciously milling out inside the potentially damaged, or a new OEM cylinder. These mods plus opening up the muffler, and altering the squish could definitely improve the performance of the saw, assuming that the electronics, carb etc are all up to snuff. I have never ported any saws but have seen the process and understand the principals. I also know the warnings of knowing where the limits are as far as how far and where one can open the ports.
***** Considering fields_mj's feelings on spending on extra tools and supplies and all his other equipment, home, family needs, I would ask, " is the 036 really the saw I would sink dollars into? Is altering squish, porting etc, worth it, given his tool storage, budgeting his $$$, truck repairs needed, etc? Yes, I know that a gasket delete is a minimal cost alteration, but how much will his saw improve if he just does this partial mod vs. the total package? Where is the cost/benefit threshold of doing porting, gasket delete, muffler mods to this model saw?
Does anyone else agree with me that he should probably start with getting his saw either diagnosed, deem the seals, crank, piston and cylinder to have minimal damage to where he can get the saw running essentially stock by possibly polishing things up and putting new rings in it will render his saw to be within spec. If all works out doing the minimum and if he puts it back together and fires it up, he can have the " acid test" of was that all it needed, and he is good to go? My thoughts are, if he is able to get it running in essentially "stock" form, he at least has his reliable saw back. Once he does, then he is always free to mod it as his time and budget permits?
For reference, the OP lists his saws below.
Suzie Q - Stihl 024 - 18" .325 x .063 mini spline 7 pin rim.
Mini - Stihl 026 - 18" .325 x .063 small spline 8 pin rim.
Taz 1 and Taz 2- Stihl 036 - 18" .325 x .063 standard spline 9 pin rim
Bertha - Stihl 064 - 28" .404 full comp, 42" 3/8" full skip.
The Pretender - G660 - 28" .404 full comp, 42" 3/8" full skip
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
Here's how I leak testing my Stihl MS038. You could test thru the impulse port and leave the spark plug in. However, I just ground the flare over the spark plug porcelain and pulled it out ... tapped the bore for a fitting. The mini vac what great tool worth every penny in my book. You can always justify mini vac cost to the wife for use in food sealing... My wife has her own...lol
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Also, fields_mj etc, what do you mean by " small spline"? in your 026 specs? I have 2 of these saws and never really looked at the stock spline specs or what they were called mentioned anywhere.
I did some research so, never mind needing to answer. Found this thread about the splines for 036 etc.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-036-rim-sprockets-size.58019/
I see that fields_mj's 026 has the 8 tooth, I am pretty sure that my 2 saws came stock with 7 tooth like this,
Found the 8 tooth variety too. Simple enough to make sure parts match if making a switch or replacement of worn ones.
I did some research so, never mind needing to answer. Found this thread about the splines for 036 etc.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-036-rim-sprockets-size.58019/
I see that fields_mj's 026 has the 8 tooth, I am pretty sure that my 2 saws came stock with 7 tooth like this,
Found the 8 tooth variety too. Simple enough to make sure parts match if making a switch or replacement of worn ones.
By mini/small/standard I'm not referring to the number of teeth, I'm referring to the size of the output spline on the clutch.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/rim-spline-sizes.287895/
As afar as how many teeth the rim has, that's what I mean when I say 7 pin, 8 pin, or 9 pin. I'm currently running an 8 pin rim on my 026, but I flip back and forth between a 7 and 8 without much concern. I upgraded my 036 saws to run the same clutch and drive bearing that was used on an 041. That clutch uses a larger output spline (standard for the 041 vs small for the 036). The Standard spline allows me to run a 9 pin .325 rim which I happen to prefer with an 18" bar.
Appreciate your input. I still have the written quote from one of my local Stihl dealers, but it's possible that they are either quoting/charging more or that prices have changed.
Thanks, I researched it as you could see in my post.
I learn something every day.
In case it matters, I do hope my advice along with those of others will have helped you in fixing up your 036.
I like your selection of good old saws. I should post mine as some are either the same or similar.
Curious to hear a little more about that 064 too. I was hunting an 066 and wound up with a 660 a few years back.
This 036 Still saw is hurting. Seems like you could rebuild the top end with a P/C kit and be done with it. I have done this several times without failure. Good Luck!
