036 help!!!

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What you bought is a well known issue with 036's. The sprocket bearing would let loose in them, sometimes the clutch carrier clips would break and get in behind the clutch and tear up hell. They would wipe out the oil line and the worm gear tang too. Sometimes the broken parts would get behind the clutch and grind a hole right through the crankcase. The major upgrade when the MS360 took
the 036's place was all in the clutch area. Check the end of the crankshaft real close and you will probably notice its concaved from all the movement of the sprocket flopping around on it, if it is she's DONE, not worth fooling with, crankshafts aren't cheap and a mint 036 isn't worth much over 300.00-350.00 if that..

When you heard that nasty noise when you first fired it up the damaged was already there when you bought it. Seller may claim not to have known but how he could not have seen all that oil pouring out from the cut oil line is doubtfull at best...

As the final (for now) recipient of this saw, I can state without hesitation that it is anything but in "excellent" condition. The red flag should have gone up when the box was opened and a complaint made to resolve the matter right then and there.

But now it's my little winter project and I 'preciate the tip on the crank end and will inspect accordingly before running out and buying bearings and seals for it! :cheers:

Poge
 
No, in reality, if any what you said was true, you would be getting all of your money back.

Why you are not doing so, well that is your problem.

I am a member here, as well as an e-bay seller, so I know full well about what I am talking about.

But putting up a thread here doesn't mean that what you posted is fact, and I and some others posted some observations.

You went to the trouble to make a big thread here about it, but when I said that if all you said was true, ebay/paypal would refund you fully.

Even if most of it is lies, ebay/Paypal would refund you........

Why don't you wish to follow this thing up? With the click of your mouse, you would have gotten a refund.

Why should you think I sold you this saw?

Because I told you that you could get your money back, if you were not totally full of ****/lying?

I don't know what your agenda is, but we all will find out soon. I guess....
 
To the OP, sorry to hear about your bad fortune.

On the other hand, I have a few 036 saws inbound that I bought from members here. I will be upgrading the clutch on both saws. So your thread has helped another member at least.
 
I understand the not wanting to "BOTHER" with it ****, but that should include not starting a Internet/Biatch thread, HUUUHHH?
 
As the final (for now) recipient of this saw, I can state without hesitation that it is anything but in "excellent" condition. The red flag should have gone up when the box was opened and a complaint made to resolve the matter right then and there.

But now it's my little winter project and I 'preciate the tip on the crank end and will inspect accordingly before running out and buying bearings and seals for it! :cheers:

Poge

Welp check the end of the crankshaft closely, if its still totally round and all there the job of getting it all back to running order isn't all that tuff. The oil line kit is alittle tuff to deal with, you'll cuss alittle bit. Finally and formost, do not put that small sprocket bearing back in it. Get the large sprocket bearing kit and you'll be good to go for many years. I read too there is a question about the crankshaft bearings on that saw. Two ways to check that since the clutch is already off. Remove the spark plug and pull the engine as fast as you can and listen closely. If you hear a ruff squealing sound thats not good, bearings are chipped in it. Second way is to remove the starter assembly, grab the flywheel in one hand and the other end of the crankshaft in the other hand and see if you can feel any back and forth and up down movement on the crank by pulling oppsite ways. Any movement up and down means the bearings are loose and should be replaced, not that big a deal and not that costly if your doing the work yourself...
 
I understand the not wanting to "BOTHER" with it ****, but that should include not starting a Internet/Biatch thread, HUUUHHH?

And it was your choice to read it and reply... No one forced you...

Guess a guy can't express his disappointment in something.... Sorry for ruining your day.... Hope it gets better....
 
Welp check the end of the crankshaft closely, if its still totally round and all there the job of getting it all back to running order isn't all that tuff. The oil line kit is alittle tuff to deal with, you'll cuss alittle bit. Finally and formost, do not put that small sprocket bearing back in it. Get the large sprocket bearing kit and you'll be good to go for many years. I read too there is a question about the crankshaft bearings on that saw. Two ways to check that since the clutch is already off. Remove the spark plug and pull the engine as fast as you can and listen closely. If you hear a ruff squealing sound thats not good, bearings are chipped in it. Second way is to remove the starter assembly, grab the flywheel in one hand and the other end of the crankshaft in the other hand and see if you can feel any back and forth and up down movement on the crank by pulling oppsite ways. Any movement up and down means the bearings are loose and should be replaced, not that big a deal and not that costly if your doing the work yourself...

Thanks again. The bearings seem fine with no wobble or squealing when pulling over rapidly w/o the plug. There's a little bit of a rubbing sound that seems to just be the recoil assembly, but I'll lose that and check with a drill right on the flywheel nut to make sure.

Now about the different oiler assemblies...the OP put one on it, but I haven't looked into it very far to check what's what there. Crank end seems ok in general, but where precisely am I looking for the deformity you mentioned? Inside the clutch threads next to the seal, or somewhere in between?

Poge
 
Tommy, you sitting around on new year's eve, and watchin' "BAD BOYS"???????

Whatcha you gonna do?????????

I was out stacking wood alittle bit ago. Came in to rest all this and thought I'd see whats going on at Arb Site. This cat with the 036, soon as I saw the title of the thread I bet myself its a clutch issue and sure enough it is. Seen so many of those saws over the years with the same problem. It stems from folks never maintaining the clutch area. Bearing never grease, springs never replaced and so on. Even so that area of that saw is a weak link and caused alot of issues. Thats why it was all beefed up with the MS360 using the big sprocket bearing kits. I think the clutch springs were even enhanced abit to prevent breaking. 036 is a good saw but the MS360 is a better saw all due to the clutch area upgrade. I've never seen a 360 clutch fly apart but I've sure seen plenty of 036's loose it in the clutch area.

One thing is for certain, if you see oil pouring out the bottom of the sprocket on a 036 be prepare to spend a few pennies..
 
I was out stacking wood alittle bit ago. Came in to rest all this and thought I'd see whats going on at Arb Site. This cat with the 036, soon as I saw the title of the thread I bet myself its a clutch issue and sure enough it is. Seen so many of those saws over the years with the same problem. It stems from folks never maintaining the clutch area. Bearing never grease, springs never replaced and so on. Even so that area of that saw is a weak link and caused alot of issues. Thats why it was all beefed up with the MS360 using the big sprocket bearing kits. I think the clutch springs were even enhanced abit to prevent breaking. 036 is a good saw but the MS360 is a better saw all due to the clutch area upgrade. I've never seen a 360 clutch fly apart but I've sure seen plenty of 036's loose it in the clutch area.

One thing is for certain, if you see oil pouring out the bottom of the sprocket on a 036 be prepare to spend a few pennies..

Did you read this one from post #1?
 
Thanks again. The bearings seem fine with no wobble or squealing when pulling over rapidly w/o the plug. There's a little bit of a rubbing sound that seems to just be the recoil assembly, but I'll lose that and check with a drill right on the flywheel nut to make sure.

Now about the different oiler assemblies...the OP put one on it, but I haven't looked into it very far to check what's what there. Crank end seems ok in general, but where precisely am I looking for the deformity you mentioned? Inside the clutch threads next to the seal, or somewhere in between?

Poge

Cool, sounds good. What I meant about the crank being concave is right where the sprocket sits on it. Alot of times the bearing would blow out but the user would keep on running the saw. The sprocket would be riding directly on the crank since the bearing was gone. Everytime the saw was brought down to idle the sprocket was rubbing the crank. If done long enough it would wear away the crankshaft metal leaving a concaved look. You would see a dished out area just a tad behind where the sprocket clips holds everything in place. Check that area, if its flat, nice and round, no dished out metal, your good to go...
 
Any pointers on replacing the oiler and clutch... Got. Flebay special " excellent" shape... Fired it up and heard a nasty noise. Clutch cover is flopping in the breeze, pulled the cover off the clutch is soaked in oil, I put my finger on the clutch to check if it really was oil and the entire clutch falls off into my hand... NICE!!! I think the clutch cover was whipping back and forth and in turn cut a hole through the oil line...

Last time I eBay a saw...

Wow, let us all read this stuff again....
 
Did you read this one from post #1?

Fish you know me better than that, I skim through the posts, I'm a typer, not a reader,LOLOL

Apparently I've missed something your going to point out to me so ok, I'm gonna read the entire thread, sit tight ole wild cat...
 
Fish I just looked at the pics he put up, hell the clutch spider is broken too, yikes. Tis no wonder it all fell apart in his hand. Oh well that makes it a easy fix, just buy a clutch assembly and torque the thing on there. Other poster says the bearings seem fine and I didn't see any crankcase damaged. If the crank is good hell that thing can be repaired easliy, that job would take me about 20 minutes, oppps, I forgot that f-ing oil line, make that 40 minutes,LOL
 
Well, there's no doubt with the current evilbay setup that the OP could have gotten his money back easy peasy. Why he didn't is none of my business, and isn't even pertinent when considering the help he was asking for.

Glad to see his questions were answered.

I've looked at various used 036 saws and have never pulled the trigger. My 036 forerunner (034AVS) is a very strong runner, and I'm pleased with it. I'd like to thank Tommy for explaining the history of this 036 problem, because I'll be careful to watch for it if I'm looking at any 036s in the future. :)

I've purchased two chainsaws off ebay, and both were as described in the ad.
 
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Fish I just looked at the pics he put up, hell the clutch spider is broken too, yikes. Tis no wonder it all fell apart in his hand. Oh well that makes it a easy fix, just buy a clutch assembly and torque the thing on there. Other poster says the bearings seem fine and I didn't see any crankcase damaged. If the crank is good hell that thing can be repaired easliy, that job would take me about 20 minutes, oppps, I forgot that f-ing oil line, make that 40 minutes,LOL

After looking into this thing more closely, I'm now hoping it's just bearings. Otherwise the crank looks bent.

Got a spare layin' around the shop, Tom?

However it turns out, the OP got screwed on this deal. Looks like maybe I did too!:laugh:

Happy New Year and be safe, gang.

:cheers:

Poge
 
No it's all good guys....

Yeah, it's cool....and officially my hijacked thread now that it's officially my "piece o' junk" saw, right?

So what's the most logical/practical way to determine whether the crank is bent vs. bearing runout causing untrue rotation?
Splitting the case is inevitable, but how can I check the crank for true w/o new bearings and putting the whole thing back together? Or can I? And how would a crank get bent without completely trashing the bearings, rod, and/or the freekin' case itself?

Still no noise when hand spinning the rascal.

TIA for any input and advice as usual.

Poge
 
Yeah, it's cool....and officially my hijacked thread now that it's officially my "piece o' junk" saw, right?

So what's the most logical/practical way to determine whether the crank is bent vs. bearing runout causing untrue rotation?
Splitting the case is inevitable, but how can I check the crank for true w/o new bearings and putting the whole thing back together? Or can I? And how would a crank get bent without completely trashing the bearings, rod, and/or the freekin' case itself?

Still no noise when hand spinning the rascal.

TIA for any input and advice as usual.

Poge


The crankshaft is hard to bend. I would think the case would be damaged badly if the crank was bent. To check it though use a dial indicator and a set of V blocks. If you need the cases split and new bearings installed I would be glad to do it for you. I've done a pile of 034/036s....
 
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