036 non-pro air filter

[dwaugh]

I have a 036 non-pro (red control, no decompression button). The current air filter is wire mesh (1125 120 1600 the half closest to the carb and 1125 120 1605). That may be the "Arctic" version from what I have read here and other places. I'm not in the Arctic, so I assume I should be using one of the fleece/fabric filters? The manual suggests the fabric is for normal conditions and the fleece is for dry and dusty conditions. The saw really doesn't get that much use, but I'd rather have the correct filter for it. Am I correct in saying the fine wire mesh filter is not what I should be using? I imagine Stihl has discontinued/upgraded the original filters. Looking online at replacements the descriptions often mention there being an older and newer 036 that takes different filters (not sure which I have). Does anyone have any recommendations on what the current Stihl filter I should get is, or if I have an older or newer 036? Or maybe the wire mesh is OK? My dealer I'm sure can order any part, but I'd rather go in there knowing which version to ask for. Thanks! Pictures attached.

 

[barfer]

I have a 036 non-pro (red control, no decompression button). The current air filter is wire mesh (1125 120 1600 the half closest to the carb and 1125 120 1605). That may be the "Arctic" version from what I have read here and other places. I'm not in the Arctic, so I assume I should be using one of the fleece/fabric filters? The manual suggests the fabric is for normal conditions and the fleece is for dry and dusty conditions. The saw really doesn't get that much use, but I'd rather have the correct filter for it. Am I correct in saying the fine wire mesh filter is not what I should be using? I imagine Stihl has discontinued/upgraded the original filters. Looking online at replacements the descriptions often mention there being an older and newer 036 that takes different filters (not sure which I have). Does anyone have any recommendations on what the current Stihl filter I should get is, or if I have an older or newer 036? Or maybe the wire mesh is OK? My dealer I'm sure can order any part, but I'd rather go in there knowing which version to ask for. Thanks! Pictures attached.


View attachment 1204595View attachment 1204596View attachment 1204597

Your saw is going to run fine as-is but sure if you want it to have as long a life as possible you will want a filter that is more than just a wire screen. Motorcycle racers do all kinds of prototype experimental (sometimes totally illegal in race rules) modifications to motorcycle and one of the things they use for this is a 12 inch by 12 inch flat micro filter sheet made by a company called outerwears. It’s inexpensive and if you can’t find the “right” OEM filter or other solution you could buy the filter fabric stuff, trace out a pattern using your current filter, cut it LARGER than your current filter because you’re gonna place it between your intake manifold and your current filter and just smash that fabric in between—tight so it’s sealed.

THAT will filter out basically everything that could possibly get into your intake. Including water and rain BTW). It’s very high flow so it’s not like you’re gonna be choking your intake or anything but yes it will decrease your intake CFM by some miniature amount.

We would drill holes in our airboxes to get more airflow into the k&n pod filters on our race bikes. And we would take this filter sheet stuff and lay it down inside the box to cover the holes to keep gravel and etc from getting into the airbox. We’d epoxy it in place around the perimeter. Years later both KTM and Husqvarna sell “special” airbox covers that are “vented” because frankly, venting the intakes WORKS. Anyway this is a way you can make a DIY filter that is tried and true and inexpensive and easy. It’s not the BEST solution. But it’s an easy one that will work.

Good luck!

Woody

 

[barfer]

Your saw is going to run fine as-is but sure if you want it to have as long a life as possible you will want a filter that is more than just a wire screen. Motorcycle racers do all kinds of prototype experimental (sometimes totally illegal in race rules) modifications to motorcycle and one of the things they use for this is a 12 inch by 12 inch flat micro filter sheet made by a company called outerwears. It’s inexpensive and if you can’t find the “right” OEM filter or other solution you could buy the filter fabric stuff, trace out a pattern using your current filter, cut it LARGER than your current filter because you’re gonna place it between your intake manifold and your current filter and just smash that fabric in between—tight so it’s sealed.

THAT will filter out basically everything that could possibly get into your intake. Including water and rain BTW). It’s very high flow so it’s not like you’re gonna be choking your intake or anything but yes it will decrease your intake CFM by some miniature amount.

We would drill holes in our airboxes to get more airflow into the k&n pod filters on our race bikes. And we would take this filter sheet stuff and lay it down inside the box to cover the holes to keep gravel and etc from getting into the airbox. We’d epoxy it in place around the perimeter. Years later both KTM and Husqvarna sell “special” airbox covers that are “vented” because frankly, venting the intakes WORKS. Anyway this is a way you can make a DIY filter that is tried and true and inexpensive and easy. It’s not the BEST solution. But it’s an easy one that will work.

Good luck!

Woody

Now that I look at your pics I’d sandwich it in between you current filter “sandwich halves” if that makes any sense? It’ll give you more surface area than if you put it in between the intake manifold and the current air filter. Like a lot more. Just make sure the seal is tight.

BTW you can buy the fabric outerwear filter sheets on Amazon or if you google Dirtbike performance shops if you’re like anti-Jeff-Bezos performance motocross shops will either sell it or tell you where to get it.

 

[dwaugh]

@barfer thanks, I'm hopping there is a more OEM option, but yeah, I could certainly do something like that. I did notice that the mating surface of the filter and the carb on the filter was not totally flat and may have been letting some stuff bypass the filter, I hit that if a large flat file to flatten it some (mostly to take off a few proud bits of the plastic filter housing so it should seat better.

 

[Mad Professor]

Parts #22 and 23 Illustration L of the IPL.

 

[dwaugh]

Parts #22 and 23 Illustration L of the IPL.

ILP?

 

[dwaugh]

Parts #22 and 23 Illustration L of the IPL.

Found it, thanks!

 

[dwaugh]

Parts #22 and 23 Illustration L of the IPL.

I found a 2004 IPL, the illustration was K (so probably a different version), part 22 and 23 are 1125 120 1615/1620 for the fleece filter which is listed for the 036 WVH, does that sound right?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I just put this oem fleece/flocked one on to replace a old one on 034 super.

Pic with part number 1125 120 1615

 

[ZeroJunk]

I think they discontinued the wire mesh filters because they cost more to make.

I have saws with wire mesh filters that have a zillion hours on them.

 

[Chevboy0167]

https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/036/9e9bf164-fed1-45f3-b577/

 

[barfer]

I think they discontinued the wire mesh filters because they cost more to make.

I have saws with wire mesh filters that have a zillion hours on them.

Yeah I’d *definitely* keep that bad boy. Because it is a LIFELONG piece of kit.

And if OP is worried about fine dust getting through he can throw an outerwear sheet sandwiched into it. It would last generations.

 

[holeycow]

Most times there is a summer mesh (fine) and a winter mesh (coarse) available. The summer mesh is perfectly adequate to keep carby clean. I prefer mesh filters as the flocked ones are a pita to clean, and never really clean anyway without a wash in solvent. Then they take a long time to dry.

Fines usually get in around the filter's seal to the carb, not through the fine mesh. Some saws have great directional air flow and don't get dirty. Some get filthy immediately. The 'air injection' huskys are remarkeable in this respect. So are my jonsered 590's.

Besides, a good mesh filter well cared for lasts almost forever.

 

[holeycow]

That 036 filter appears to be the summer one.

The whole chainsaw super-fantastic-air-filter thing is designed to sell parts. The old mesh filters are fine, just don't run a winter one in dirty conditions.

I completely despise flocked filters.

 

[Mad Professor]

Most times there is a summer mesh (fine) and a winter mesh (coarse) available. The summer mesh is perfectly adequate to keep carby clean. I prefer mesh filters as the flocked ones are a pita to clean, and never really clean anyway without a wash in solvent. Then they take a long time to dry.

Fines usually get in around the filter's seal to the carb, not through the fine mesh. Some saws have great directional air flow and don't get dirty. Some get filthy immediately. The 'air injection' huskys are remarkeable in this respect. So are my jonsered 590's.

Besides, a good mesh filter well cared for lasts almost forever.

That 036 filter appears to be the summer one.

The whole chainsaw super-fantastic-air-filter thing is designed to sell parts. The old mesh filters are fine, just don't run a winter one in dirty conditions.

I completely despise flocked filters.

All my Stihls are old and run the flocked filters.

They filter REALLY well but the Stihl airboxes lets a lot of stuff in so they need cleaning often. Keeping the airbox clean helps keep the filter clean too. Brush that out with an old toothbrush and blow out with air. I find starter fluid will wash out the stubborn oily caked on stuff that is left over. Getting the oil residue out keeps the dust from collecting and adhering.

Best way to clean the flocked filters is using your fingers with warm dish detergent solution, then thoroughly rinsing out all the soap The filters last a long time cleaned this way. They do need to dry.

You can dip the washed filter in grain alcohol/dry gas/rubbing alcohol and that will remove the water but you have to let that dry too, but it's much faster. Alcohol in the intake is not good for saw lubrication. Save the capped jar/alcohol for reuse in your shop. I think I'm using a glass wide mouth pickle jar that is big enough to fit the filters inside.

Having two fleeced filters is a good way to go. When one gets too dirty clean it and let dry, put the clean/dry one in it's place.

The 036 filters changed with the compensating carb introduction.

 

[dwaugh]

All my Stihls are old and run the flocked filters.

They filter REALLY well but the Stihl airboxes lets a lot of stuff in so they need cleaning often. Keeping the airbox clean helps keep the filter clean too. Brush that out with an old toothbrush and blow out with air. I find starter fluid will wash out the stubborn oily caked on stuff that is left over. Getting the oil residue out keeps the dust from collecting and adhering.

Best way to clean the flocked filters is using your fingers with warm dish detergent solution, then thoroughly rinsing out all the soap The filters last a long time cleaned this way. They do need to dry.

You can dip the washed filter in grain alcohol/dry gas/rubbing alcohol and that will remove the water but you have to let that dry too, but it's much faster. Alcohol in the intake is not good for saw lubrication. Save the capped jar/alcohol for reuse in your shop. I think I'm using a glass wide mouth pickle jar that is big enough to fit the filters inside.

Having two fleeced filters is a good way to go. When one gets too dirty clean it and let dry, put the clean/dry one in it's place.

The 036 filters changed with the compensating carb introduction.

Thanks, it sounds like flocked is what you prefer of the screen then? It's a fairly fine mesh, but certainly not as tight as the flocked would be.

 

[cookies]

There are three styles/types of filter in the old design for the 034/036. Wire mesh, flocked wire mesh and paper flocked. wire mesh and flocked wire are both discontinued but are washable, the flocked paper I find is not really washable because wood dust is thoroughly trapped into it so removal then tapping it seems to be the best method between replacements and this version requires regular replacement and is the most restrictive but the best at stopping fine particulates from dry wood and fire. I hate to push knock offs but the holtzhforma copy is both cheap and works well when replaced often. When its been dry I use the paper flocked, when cutting green wood I run the flocked mesh. I started looking for a mesh bag to fit over the 034/036 filter, ifsomeone finds model/version that fits it properly please drop the model in this discussion. I have one on my ms460 and it works super fantastic for stopping 95% of the wood dust and easily wipes off.

 

[cscltd]

Is your saw an original 036 or a clone, as I don’t recall 036 coming without deco valves- it looks brand new for a saw discontinued for 20 years?

 

[dwaugh]

Is your saw an original 036 or a clone, as I don’t recall 036 coming without deco valves- it looks brand new for a saw discontinued for 20 years?

It's real, just VERY low hours. I guess there were a number of 036 models, not sure of the chronology, but they didn't all have the decomp valves.

 

[barfer]

It's real, just VERY low hours. I guess there were a number of 036 models, not sure of the chronology, but they didn't all have the decomp valves.

That’s a special saw, man! Nice going!