038AV Magnum II, Brazil made

[singinwoodwackr]

So, picked up one of these yesterday. It is in very good shape but needs a few things and a good cleaning.
via the SN (3245….) it is a Brazil saw, not Germany. Does that reduce the value?
so far most of the parts are matching with the list I got from Ray. I’m not sure on the cyl but it is 1119 Stihl so that’s good, just not sure it it is the 50 or 52mm as I can’t see the rest of the # without pulling the cyl. P&c are in great shape and rings look good…175 for comp.
top has “A16A” and the SK logo Stamped on it. Does that tell me anything about the size?
carb is a BING 48a101a so that checks.
muffler is only a dual port but is all OE. Clutch cover is the smaller size, not the tall one listed for this saw so may be a replacement. Pt# doesn’t match the schematic but is still a 1125 series. Only one small dog so I should probably upgrade.
Is it worth restoring? I’ve never had one so know zip.
any 038 experts here?

thanks

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Wow, 63 lookers and no advice…

 

[Mad Professor]

Wow, 63 lookers and no advice…

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Lol, wondered about that

 

[farmer steve]

Wow, 63 lookers and no advice…

Sorry. One of the few stihls I'm not familiar enough with. Doesn't look like the carb box is the original. Saw does look good otherwise. Not sure about the Brazil part but seeing some cutting vids from south America they must be tough saws.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

All 038 mags are 52mm bore. That’s the correct clutch cover, every one I’ve seen so far had the same one. There is a larger cover available, it’s possible the full wrap saws came with the bigger one but can’t confirm that. Definitely worth keeping they run very well. Not a screamer but they’ve got good torque. Only thing I can see off with it is the air filter cover.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

All 038 mags are 52mm bore. That’s the correct clutch cover, every one I’ve seen so far had the same one. There is a larger cover available, it’s possible the full wrap saws came with the bigger one but can’t confirm that. Definitely worth keeping they run very well. Not a screamer but they’ve got good torque. Only thing I can see off with it is the air filter cover.

Good eye. Checked for pt#…none on either the cover or the AF so both are aftermarket.
schematic shows 2 …1119 140 1903, 1904
do you know which should be on the magnum?
found a 1903 on ebay. It looks like this is the cold weather version.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353971832071
1904
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352459404784

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

You can still get the AF cover from Stihl. I’d put the standard one on the saw if it were mine. I believe the cold weather version is just a modification done to the stock cover.

 

[Mad Professor]

I've got a bunch of 038s, supers converted to magnums and a German magnum, a few parts carcasses and other salvaged spares.

They are overbuilt like a tank and very reliable, result being a little heavy. Lots of torque and pulls a 25" bar in hardwoods fine. I run both 20" and 25" on mine.

Yours looks in decent shape. The AF cover has a prefilter that should get cleaned, not sure about those on AM plastics? Fitment does not look as good as OEM. Clean the flocked filters with warm dish detergent solution, rinse well, then air dry.

I'd look over all the rubber parts and filters including the AV mounts. They can pinch the sparkplug lead if the AV mounts go bad.The DP muffler benefits from opening up the outlets as big as the spark screens allow and drilling some holes in the inner baffle, take a peek at P/C while in there. With muffler off you can check it's a real Mag by checking cyl diameter. The plastics all interchange so beware of that badge on the top cover. Won't hurt to P/V test it.

The choke is inside the air filter and aftermarket filters can have problematic chokes. Sometimes as they do not engage the throttle shaft properly. Hard starting cold can be a symptom. Keep the filter and inside of air box clean as it's an old design, but filters well.

If it leaves it's mark where you set it down , like an old Harley, the oil pump might need work. If pump body and piston are OK you can replace the seal and o-rings. Pump drives off clutch drum with plastic gears, look those over. It's worth pulling that cover off anyway to give it a good cleanout.

Most parts from the 038 series interchange so if you're keeping it look for a parts carcass saw for salvage. I like used German parts better than new Chi-Com stuff.

I have the shop manual but the PDF is too big to post here. Also have owners manual and IPL if you need those?

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

I've got a bunch of 038s, supers converted to magnums and a German magnum, a few parts carcasses and other salvaged spares.

They are overbuilt like a tank and very reliable, result being a little heavy. Lots of torque and pulls a 25" bar in hardwoods fine. I run both 20" and 25" on mine.

Yours looks in decent shape. The AF cover has a prefilter that should get cleaned, not sure about those on AM plastics? Fitment does not look as good as OEM. Clean the flocked filters with warm dish detergent solution, rinse well, then air dry.

I'd look over all the rubber parts and filters including the AV mounts. They can pinch the sparkplug lead if the AV mounts go bad.The DP muffler benefits from opening up the outlets as big as the spark screens allow and drilling some holes in the inner baffle, take a peek at P/C while in there. With muffler off you can check it's a real Mag by checking cyl diameter. The plastics all interchange so beware of that badge on the top cover. Won't hurt to P/V test it.

The choke is inside the air filter and aftermarket filters can have problematic chokes. Sometimes as they do not engage the throttle shaft properly. Hard starting cold can be a symptom. Keep the filter and inside of air box clean as it's an old design, but filters well.

If it leaves it's mark where you set it down , like an old Harley, the oil pump might need work. If pump body and piston are OK you can replace the seal and o-rings. Pump drives off clutch drum with plastic gears, look those over. It's worth pulling that cover off anyway to give it a good cleanout.

Most parts from the 038 series interchange so if you're keeping it look for a parts carcass saw for salvage. I like used German parts better than new Chi-Com stuff.

I have the shop manual but the PDF is too big to post here. Also have owners manual and IPL if you need those?

The muffler on the 038 is it’s achilles heel in my opinion, that inner baffle chokes them up even with all the holes in it. I’ve got a pretty rare (in the US) Brazil market muffler with no baffle in it. I added a WCS exhaust port and the ported front cover on one of my mags. Made a noticeable difference and isn’t really any louder than a triple port muffler.

 

[Mad Professor]

The muffler on the 038 is it’s achilles heel in my opinion, that inner baffle chokes them up even with all the holes in it. I’ve got a pretty rare (in the US) Brazil market muffler with no baffle in it. I added a WCS exhaust port and the ported front cover on one of my mags. Made a noticeable difference and isn’t really any louder than a triple port muffler.

Some work with a 3/8 or 5/16 drill on the baffle works without having to remove it.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I've got a bunch of 038s, supers converted to magnums and a German magnum, a few parts carcasses and other salvaged spares.

They are overbuilt like a tank and very reliable, result being a little heavy. Lots of torque and pulls a 25" bar in hardwoods fine. I run both 20" and 25" on mine.

Yours looks in decent shape. The AF cover has a prefilter that should get cleaned, not sure about those on AM plastics? Fitment does not look as good as OEM. Clean the flocked filters with warm dish detergent solution, rinse well, then air dry.

I'd look over all the rubber parts and filters including the AV mounts. They can pinch the sparkplug lead if the AV mounts go bad.The DP muffler benefits from opening up the outlets as big as the spark screens allow and drilling some holes in the inner baffle, take a peek at P/C while in there. With muffler off you can check it's a real Mag by checking cyl diameter. The plastics all interchange so beware of that badge on the top cover. Won't hurt to P/V test it.

The choke is inside the air filter and aftermarket filters can have problematic chokes. Sometimes as they do not engage the throttle shaft properly. Hard starting cold can be a symptom. Keep the filter and inside of air box clean as it's an old design, but filters well.

If it leaves it's mark where you set it down , like an old Harley, the oil pump might need work. If pump body and piston are OK you can replace the seal and o-rings. Pump drives off clutch drum with plastic gears, look those over. It's worth pulling that cover off anyway to give it a good cleanout.

Most parts from the 038 series interchange so if you're keeping it look for a parts carcass saw for salvage. I like used German parts better than new Chi-Com stuff.

I have the shop manual but the PDF is too big to post here. Also have owners manual and IPL if you need those?

I found a carb kit for the Bing so ordered that so far. I think the previous owner added an ebay carb cover/filter for $12, lol I'll change those. The oiler cover is "ok" but pretty dinged up and someone tried a little "white" paint to cover up some of the damage. Those are available OE so will change that.
P&C look great via exh port so plan to leave that alone for now. comp is 175 so higher than some saws I see on ebay.
fuel line, impulse, vent line all need replacement but are easy to find. carb has no gaskets so will order those.
What about the stamps on the cyl? do those tell you anything? “A16A” and the SK logo (S over a K)
I know the cyl is original 1119 Stihl but am not sure if a 52mm or not.

I got the manuals from Ray

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Some work with a 3/8 or 5/16 drill on the baffle works without having to remove it.

I was planning on doing a MM but keeping it looking stock.

 

[Mad Professor]

I found a carb kit for the Bing so ordered that so far. I think the previous owner added an ebay carb cover/filter for $12, lol I'll change those. The oiler cover is "ok" but pretty dinged up and someone tried a little "white" paint to cover up some of the damage. Those are available OE so will change that.
P&C look great via exh port so plan to leave that alone for now. comp is 175 so higher than some saws I see on ebay.
fuel line, impulse, vent line all need replacement but are easy to find. carb has no gaskets so will order those.
What about the stamps on the cyl? do those tell you anything? “A16A” and the SK logo (S over a K)
I know the cyl is original 1119 Stihl but am not sure if a 52mm or not.

I got the manuals from Ray

Use a plastic drink straw in the ex port. Insert it across cylinder then raise piston to crimp it on roof of ex port. Measure straw to crimp point. Crude but should be able to tell 48 vs 50 vs 52mm bore.

Save the grub screws from the vent line and you can use generic tubing. Push the screws in, don't screw them as that will cut into the tubing and it won't vent. For fuel and impulse I'd $pend on OEM. I have used a fuel line from Stens that held up well.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

I found a carb kit for the Bing so ordered that so far. I think the previous owner added an ebay carb cover/filter for $12, lol I'll change those. The oiler cover is "ok" but pretty dinged up and someone tried a little "white" paint to cover up some of the damage. Those are available OE so will change that.
P&C look great via exh port so plan to leave that alone for now. comp is 175 so higher than some saws I see on ebay.
fuel line, impulse, vent line all need replacement but are easy to find. carb has no gaskets so will order those.
What about the stamps on the cyl? do those tell you anything? “A16A” and the SK logo (S over a K)
I know the cyl is original 1119 Stihl but am not sure if a 52mm or not.

I got the manuals from Ray

KS is the manufacturer marking, kolbenschmidt. Not really a indicator of bore size. The other numbers are probably for tracking on the assembly line, or something to that effect.

 

[Mad Professor]

I was planning on doing a MM but keeping it looking stock.

What I suggested above on the DP mufflers have worked well on my 038S---> 038M conversions, looks stock

 

[Dennisthemenace]

The 038 52mm MAG is a very desirable, torquey, old style saw. I believe most if not all were manufacturered in Brazil due to not passing EU/ US EPA rubbish. This alone makes them a very good thing.
I have read that they were never sold in the US.
There are quite a few here in Australia though.
Another good thing is that almost every part is interchangeable with the next version, the ms 381. I think the 381 is still made in Brazil. The 381 carb replaces the hard to find Bing 48 nicely

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Use a plastic drink straw in the ex port. Insert it across cylinder then raise piston to crimp it on roof of ex port. Measure straw to crimp point. Crude but should be able to tell 48 vs 50 vs 52mm bore.

Save the grub screws from the vent line and you can use generic tubing. Push the screws in, don't screw them as that will cut into the tubing and it won't vent. For fuel and impulse I'd $pend on OEM. I have used a fuel line from Stens that held up well.

grub screws are gone a generic screw was in a worn out tube, lol

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Use a plastic drink straw in the ex port. Insert it across cylinder then raise piston to crimp it on roof of ex port. Measure straw to crimp point. Crude but should be able to tell 48 vs 50 vs 52mm bore.

Save the grub screws from the vent line and you can use generic tubing. Push the screws in, don't screw them as that will cut into the tubing and it won't vent. For fuel and impulse I'd $pend on OEM. I have used a fuel line from Stens that held up well.

ha, a straw...never thought of that

 

[lone wolf]

Use a plastic drink straw in the ex port. Insert it across cylinder then raise piston to crimp it on roof of ex port. Measure straw to crimp point. Crude but should be able to tell 48 vs 50 vs 52mm bore.

Save the grub screws from the vent line and you can use generic tubing. Push the screws in, don't screw them as that will cut into the tubing and it won't vent. For fuel and impulse I'd $pend on OEM. I have used a fuel line from Stens that held up well.

What no machinists ruler or Verner Calipers available?