038AV Magnum II, Brazil made

[singinwoodwackr]

What no machinists ruler or Verner Calipers available?

not planning on taking the cyl apart.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

grub screws are gone a generic screw was in a worn out tube, lol

Straw crimp looks like 52mm

 

[Mad Professor]

What no machinists ruler or Verner Calipers available?

Only the best. Have Brown and Sharpe verniers too, one is a big 2' SOB.

Kind of hard to put the tail in cylinder and tell it's at edge of port though, measure the straw.

 

[Mad Professor]

Straw crimp looks like 52mm

It's a Mag then.

grub screws are gone a generic screw was in a worn out tube, lol

I think they come with OEM tubing. Right size small set screws should work

The 038 52mm MAG is a very desirable, torquey, old style saw. I believe most if not all were manufacturered in Brazil due to not passing EU/ US EPA rubbish. This alone makes them a very good thing.
I have read that they were never sold in the US.
There are quite a few here in Australia though.
Another good thing is that almost every part is interchangeable with the next version, the ms 381. I think the 381 is still made in Brazil. The 381 carb replaces the hard to find Bing 48 nicely

038M were made in Germany, the 038M II were the Brazil saws. I think mostly German parts? Some early 038M were labeled West Germany

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Very nice, looks all original except filter cover, barely used saw, I wouldn't do much too it, maybe fuel line and filter and impulse but honestly if it ain't broke don't fix it as long as it 4 strokes

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Very nice, looks all original except filter cover, barely used saw, I wouldn't do much too it, maybe fuel line and filter and impulse but honestly if it ain't broke don't fix it as long as it 4 strokes

Outside is clean…take covers off…not so much but not bad.
last guy did a great job cleaning the major stuff…I’m more picky
it does leak oil so I’ll rebuild the oiler.

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Brazil doesn't lower value in my book as long as it's oem, they had the first international sand cast Magnesium foundry for Stihl outside Germany I think, don't they still make this saw, now a ms382 but yours is way better

 

[singinwoodwackr]

It's a Mag then.



I think they come with OEM tubing. Right size small set screws should work


038M were made in Germany, the 038M II were the Brazil saws. I think mostly German parts? Some early 038M were labeled West Germany

SN makes it a Brazil saw.

 

[Dennisthemenace]

It's a Mag then.



I think they come with OEM tubing. Right size small set screws should work


038M were made in Germany, the 038M II were the Brazil saws. I think mostly German parts? Some early 038M were labeled West Germany

Interesting, only a MAG sticker on mine, no sign of MAG II, but Brazil made. I'd like a West German one! No matter it's a good saw to own. I think all the 381s are Brazil made

 

[Mad Professor]

Outside is clean…take covers off…not so much but not bad.
last guy did a great job cleaning the major stuff…I’m more picky
it does leak oil so I’ll rebuild the oiler.

If cover on clutch side has not been off in a while, most likely a quagmire under that if oiler is leaking. I scrape off the solids, then use a parts brush and old toothbrush with diesel as a solvent, it cuts the oily residue well then rinse with dish detergent solution. Will be worth cleaning recoil out too, and pulling flywheel off to clean behind it.

This was a free 038S had bad P/C, I was getting ready for 038M conversion, don't have pictures of the clutch side.




Does it have a rim or spur sprocket?

There is a trick to removing the driven gear on the oiler, you have to turn it clockwise while pulling it out. There is a seal behind that , and couple o-rings in the pump.

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

My 038 from Germany says 038 Mag II, serial starts with 1 (US is 2, Brazil is 3)

 

[Mad Professor]

My 038 from Germany says 038 Mag II, serial starts with 1 (US is 2, Brazil is 3)

All they covers interchange. The old starter covers may say made in Germany/West Germany.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

If cover on clutch side has not been off in a while, most likely a quagmire under that if oiler is leaking. I scrape off the solids, then use a parts brush and old toothbrush with diesel as a solvent, it cuts the oily residue well then rinse with dish detergent solution. Will be worth cleaning recoil out too, and pulling flywheel off to clean behind it.

This was a free 038S had bad P/C, I was getting ready for 038M conversion, don't have pictures of the clutch side.

View attachment 1054325
View attachment 1054334

Does it have a rim or spur sprocket?

There is a trick to removing the driven gear on the oiler, you have to turn it clockwise while pulling it out. There is a seal behind that , and couple o-rings in the pump.

Rim sprocket with an 8t

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Found the carb box on eBay so will get that. Both are actually available there…1904 (regular) and the cold weather 1903. I may get both just cuz they are no longer available from Stihl.

the only part I need but can’t find yet is one of the carb gaskets…1119 129 1100

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Rim sprocket with an 8t

If your gonna be cutting hard wood with anything longer than a 20” bar I’d suggest swapping that eight tooth rim for a seven. I run a eight on mine with a 20” bar full comp full chisel chain. Pulls like a freight train on the dogs in hard wood but longer bars will drag it down a bit. I find they cut better in general with a seven.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

If your gonna be cutting hard wood with anything longer than a 20” bar I’d suggest swapping that eight tooth rim for a seven. I run a eight on mine with a 20” bar full comp full chisel chain. Pulls like a freight train on the dogs in hard wood but longer bars will drag it down a bit. I find they cut better in general with a seven.

Don’t know how much use this saw will get
i mostly use the 500 for general cutting and take the husky 359 along as a spare. Heck, I haven’t had to take a tree apart in at least a year . Just been cutting rounds of late.

but, May have a falling project coming up, helping out a local spec ops vet who’s going for a 9th surgery late Feb.
need to find a couple local equip operators to help clear some acreage…
I haven’t driven a tractor since ‘75.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

so, ordered all parts I need...so far...other than the one carb gasket. I may head to Napa and just get a sheet of gasket material and make one based on a pic I found. I can copy to pdf and then resize then print to use as a pattern.

 

[cbfarmall]

so, ordered all parts I need...so far...other than the one carb gasket. I may head to Napa and just get a sheet of gasket material and make one based on a pic I found. I can copy to pdf and then resize then print to use as a pattern.

I don't think this is used any more. My IPL refers this part number back to some bulletin and is also marked with an asterisk leading me to believe it is discontinued. I've only ever encountered the rubber manifold, insert ring and the steel reinforcement around the studs.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I don't think this is used any more. My IPL refers this part number back to some bulletin and is also marked with an asterisk leading me to believe it is discontinued. I've only ever encountered the rubber manifold, insert ring and the steel reinforcement around the studs.

Yea, I was wondering about that. All the other saws I have or have worked on that have this configuration have no gasket.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I've got a bunch of 038s, supers converted to magnums and a German magnum, a few parts carcasses and other salvaged spares.

They are overbuilt like a tank and very reliable, result being a little heavy. Lots of torque and pulls a 25" bar in hardwoods fine. I run both 20" and 25" on mine.

Yours looks in decent shape. The AF cover has a prefilter that should get cleaned, not sure about those on AM plastics? Fitment does not look as good as OEM. Clean the flocked filters with warm dish detergent solution, rinse well, then air dry.

I'd look over all the rubber parts and filters including the AV mounts. They can pinch the sparkplug lead if the AV mounts go bad.The DP muffler benefits from opening up the outlets as big as the spark screens allow and drilling some holes in the inner baffle, take a peek at P/C while in there. With muffler off you can check it's a real Mag by checking cyl diameter. The plastics all interchange so beware of that badge on the top cover. Won't hurt to P/V test it.

The choke is inside the air filter and aftermarket filters can have problematic chokes. Sometimes as they do not engage the throttle shaft properly. Hard starting cold can be a symptom. Keep the filter and inside of air box clean as it's an old design, but filters well.

If it leaves it's mark where you set it down , like an old Harley, the oil pump might need work. If pump body and piston are OK you can replace the seal and o-rings. Pump drives off clutch drum with plastic gears, look those over. It's worth pulling that cover off anyway to give it a good cleanout.

Most parts from the 038 series interchange so if you're keeping it look for a parts carcass saw for salvage. I like used German parts better than new Chi-Com stuff.

I have the shop manual but the PDF is too big to post here. Also have owners manual and IPL if you need those?

Pulled the flywheel to clean behind it and the seal looked original so figured, might as well change it. Behind the old seal was a thin film of surface rust on that side of the bearing. It easily wiped off but… am I looking at a full tear-down?
I’ll run a scope into the crankcase via the intake tomorrow an see what things look like

am now wondering, since the saw hadn’t been run in quite some time, if what looked like a little rust was actually shellac/ old fuel. I remember finding that color goop in an old 041 that hadn’t been run in 5yrs.