048AV, Hopefully up for negotiation...

[MiloFrance]

A friend trying to cut a beam said that he had an old saw so no I enthusiastically said I would look at it... Turned out it's an 048 AV. Looks filthy to start with that cleaned up really easily. My question to all you knowledgeable types is about the the stop switch. There are three things in the photo below. On the left is a earth wire not connected to anything. In the middle is the kill wire not connected to anything. On the right is the slightly chewed up looking switch bar. I can't readily find an exploded isometric drawing of what it should look like. can anyone point me in the right direction of what I need to get it properly connected again please?
As a fourth thing it looks like there is a breather pipe coming up with a long screw inserted. That doesn't look like a standard factory to me... My grateful thanks as ever for any answers received!
Milo

 

[CausticUC]

Let's see if I can remember correctly; switch grounds to case with nut, on AV there is a case to case ground, and the other wire is the coil kill.

Hopefully someone can verify that with a little more assurance.

 

[MiloFrance]

Let's see if I can remember correctly; switch grounds to case with nut, on AV there is a case to case ground, and the other wire is the coil kill.

Hopefully someone can verify that with a little more assurance.

Sorry I should be more specific! You can see the 0/1/choke spring screwed in to the body, but there's nowhere to attach the wire - is it missing something? The top of the plastic bit looks like it's missing something too, like a rod, but I can't see what might go in there?

 

[CausticUC]

Attached is a 048 IPLView attachment 048.pdf

 

[MiloFrance]

Amazing. Thank you Monsieur CausticUC. That's my evening sorted

 

[StihlSolo]

Here are some 048AV photos, with covers off and air filter off. On your 048AV that beaten up wire goes to the black plastic master switch, the shredded wire is missing a lot of its length and its copper crimp ferrule. On your saw's switch the clip for that ferrule is broken. You have to be careful how this wire gets routed, it gets broken by having to go beneath the air filter.

I gave up on a SEM coil, went to a coil off a Solo 662 with 2 ground wires. One wire goes to the tank chassis and the longer second wire goes to the master switch. The last photo shows the grub screw that's supposed to go into the end of the tank breather. See how the tank breather get routed through that hole behind the air filter.

 

[MiloFrance]

More Amazing. Thank you StihlSolo!

 

[MiloFrance]

Hmmm... @StihlSolo , where does the other end of your yellow ground wire screw in?

 

[StihlSolo]

I used a longer green-yellow ground wire. Other end of wire with eyelet goes to the back coil mount.

 

[MiloFrance]

Thank you. Not sure the flywheel has ever been off so hopefully I'll see that tomorrow

 

[MiloFrance]

Waiting for flywheel puller to be delivered now. In the mean time have used one of my tiny connectors (used on vintage bike lights)and extended the kill wire. Also put a new ground wire on the existing connector but won't see where to connect until I can get the flywheel off. Took it to a friend this morning, he couldn't either. Connector will be shrink-wrapped and slit at the point of disconnection. Forgive my soldering, I've had a tremor since I was a small kid...

 

[StihlSolo]

The green-yellow chassis ground wire can simply go to one of the coil mounts, with an eyelet underneath the head of the allen screw.

You should un-kink and shrink wrap reinforce the black-to-blue ground wire splice. That first bigger rubber grommet was more for the spark plug lead, there room to route that blue wire around that grommet. Avoid routing the blue wire underneath the air filter, it can get crushed there if not routed through an notch in the fin that sticks up from the tank top (that fin touches the air filter bottom). I made my master switch ground wire longer to route around the air filter.

 

[MiloFrance]

Not sure if this is a wierd one... the flywheel locating pin just sheared off. Thought it was tight but maybe not. Are they machined in to the crankshaft or can I get it out and put a new one in?

 

[StihlSolo]

048 uses the same woodruff key as most other Stihls, you can get it out to replace it. Check for any damage to the slot in the flywheel taper.

 

[MiloFrance]

There's a few cobwebs on this thread... TBH I had forgotten about this saw, probably because the owner didn't want to sell it. Last time I looked at it was 2020, just checked a supplier account, and theres electronic ignition for it. I vaguely remember taking out the old bits and replacing it but I dont remember starting it. AZs I found it in a gorner of the garage I thought I'd start it now, and it started in 6 or 7 pulls. Awesome.
It does however have a fairly important issue. All the threads are gone on the starter cover screws, so here's the question... oversize and re-tap or metal specific epoxy and stick with M5 thread size? (still have to retap obvs). It's all magnesium or alloy so either will work but has anyone had this dilemma?

 

[MacAttack]

If it was me I'd go one size bigger and retap. Either an M6 or an SAE 12-24 screw?

 

[2StrokeFondler]

There's a few cobwebs on this thread... TBH I had forgotten about this saw, probably because the owner didn't want to sell it. Last time I looked at it was 2020, just checked a supplier account, and theres electronic ignition for it. I vaguely remember taking out the old bits and replacing it but I dont remember starting it. AZs I found it in a gorner of the garage I thought I'd start it now, and it started in 6 or 7 pulls. Awesome.
It does however have a fairly important issue. All the threads are gone on the starter cover screws, so here's the question... oversize and re-tap or metal specific epoxy and stick with M5 thread size? (still have to retap obvs). It's all magnesium or alloy so either will work but has anyone had this dilemma?

Helicoil isn't an option?

 

[MiloFrance]

Helicoil isn't an option?

Only ever tried helicoil once which may be a reason I not had much success with it! To my mind if there's enough meat in the holes to run a tap and make it all M6 it's probably going to be easier and more consistent than trying to helicoil?

 

[MiloFrance]

If it was me I'd go one size bigger and retap. Either an M6 or an SAE 12-24 screw?

I live in France all threads start with an M...

 

[2StrokeFondler]

I live in France all threads start with an M...

Yeah... That guy spelled the abbreviation for South East Asia really wrong