050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[Atom]

Do you use just a generic puller to get the flywheel off?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I have a duel threaded Stihl style tool. 'Bout $12. I've used many other methods -- including a hammer to whack the crank with the nut flush with the threads, or a punch at the indentation of the crank stub. Whatever you do, don't pry from the back of the flywheel with a screwdriver or anything else. You can loop a piece of rope or thin cord under the flywheel to just barely suspend the saw. A couple good whacks on the end of the crank should pop it right off.

 

[Atom]

Looks like the connecting rod hit the case. Can the case still be used?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Now that's too weird. I'd say if there's enough surface for a good gasket seal for the cylinder in that area you should be ok. Hafta fit it up and see.

 

[Atom]

I will go for it. I will have to helicoil a couple of the cylinder holes as one was completely stripped with a larger bolt in there.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Worth a shot. You may save yourself some future headaches if you can vac/pressure test the case once you get it buttoned back up with new seals, etc..., just to verify the bottom end integrity before starting to assemble everything else.

 

[Atom]

Yeah probably a good idea. Is there a kit for all of the seals fir the entire saw?

I am waiting for the clutch wrench and case splitter right now

Also, is there a way to remove the wires from the pickup without cutting them?

 

[mogulmasher]

Gasket and crank seal kit still available from Stihl. Same kit as TS760 cut off saw.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

1111-007-1051 appears to have replaced the NLA 1050 set. $25

Also, is there a way to remove the wires from the pickup without cutting them?

The plug wire should unscrew. The other is imbedded in the epoxy.

 

[Atom]

Thanks guys. I got the case split and ignition removed. It's sitting in the parts washer then I am going to take them to get blasted.

Couple of questions I have;
What material is the case made out of? I have a couple of broke pieces that I am going to try to get fixed before buying new parts. Specifically the rear handle and the exhaust cover.

Also, I bought the L shaped case splitter, but hiw do I go about removing the crankshaft from the flywheel side of the case?, and do you just use a pulley puller to remove the bearings from the crank?

 

[Woodslasher]

Thanks guys. I got the case split and ignition removed. It's sitting in the parts washer then I am going to take them to get blasted.

Couple of questions I have;
What material is the case made out of? I have a couple of broke pieces that I am going to try to get fixed before buying new parts. Specifically the rear handle and the exhaust cover.

Also, I bought the L shaped case splitter, but hiw do I go about removing the crankshaft from the flywheel side of the case?, and do you just use a pulley puller to remove the bearings from the crank?

The cases are magnesium, @srcarr52 does a pretty good job of fixing that stuff, I'd shoot him a pm. As for pulling the crank, I typically use a brass hammer on the end of the crank. Either thread the nut partially on or be very careful that you don't bugger the threads and a few good licks should knock it out once the clutch side's off.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

An arbor press is always nice for pushing a crank out. Some heat around the bearing pocket may also get the bearing. But in a pinch with a hammer -- threading the nut "partially on" actually means thread it on until it's flush with the end of the crank. Any less will risk trashing the threads on both the crank and the nut. (Ask me how I know.)

As for pulling the bearings off the crank, a bearing separator is the way to go, but a simple 2-jaw puller did quite a few for me before I broke down and got a kit. If you're lucky (and careful), the bearings may still be usable.

 

[Atom]

What arbor press are you using? I tried hammering a little but didn't want to hit too hard.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I only have a Dayton 1-Ton. Has a limited range, but works great for smaller stuff. It may be a hair too short for an 1111 crank. Since I have a Husky 'U' style case splitter, I typically just use that for each side.

And with a hammer, you'll hafta put some ass into the whack. Some heat around the bearing seat will go a long way in making it easier and will pop both the crank and bearing when heated up enough -- around 300 degrees F. It's actually easier on both the crank and the bearing pocket.

 

[TRTermite]

I only have a Dayton 1-Ton. Has a limited range, but works great for smaller stuff. It may be a hair too short for an 1111 crank. Since I have a Husky 'U' style case splitter, I typically just use that for each side.

And with a hammer, you'll hafta put some ass into the whack. Some heat around the bearing seat will go a long way in making it easier and will pop both the crank and bearing when heated up enough -- around 300 degrees F. It's actually easier on both the crank and the bearing pocket.

I have trouble some time getting the gearing off of the crank.. I haven't done many of them but the next time I am going to do the freezer then warm the bearing for removing and assembly.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm pretty sure a two jaw puller can squeeze around the bearing on that crank to get it off. Heating the bearing up to remove it will just heat the crank, too. You'll be pissin' up a rope, there. Putting one on is where the cold crank and hot bearing come into play -- when that's how you need to do it. Otherwise, heat the case to around 300F and a room temperature bearing should drop right in. Then pull the cases together with extended case bolts unless you have the tool to pull it together by the crank threads -- which the 'L' tool should do if it has the correct size threaded accessory pieces.

 

[TRTermite]

I'm pretty sure a two jaw puller can squeeze around the bearing on that crank to get it off. Heating the bearing up to remove it will just heat the crank, too. You'll be pissin' up a rope, there. Putting one on is where the cold crank and hot bearing come into play -- when that's how you need to do it. Otherwise, heat the case to around 300F and a room temperature bearing should drop right in. Then pull the cases together with extended case bolts unless you have the tool to pull it together by the crank threads -- which the 'L' tool should do if it has the correct size threaded accessory pieces.

Just about missed your reply Thanks

 

[Aussie076]

Can anyone help me with what the plus-minus leaver dose on the 076 super

 

[TRTermite]

Can anyone help me with what the plus-minus leaver dose on the 076 super

More or less bar oil

 

[Aussie076]

Thanks,

I'm using an 076 with a 42" bar would you recommend a six oiler