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Found the leak... It is accessible. Someone tell me this is a horrible idea and I'll put it to rest.
 

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You are not the first one to do this, it has worked every time for me thus far, applied vac to the chassis and the Loctite got pulled in. Two 064`s and a 460 still running fine with this fix.


Well alright then.
The leak is on the bottom side of the gasket when looking into the trough as seen in the pic I just posted. It protrudes a bit from the crank walls so I'll need to cut it flush and then try loctite once it's cleaned up with ipa... Pretty tight friggin work space though.
Alas this option is free so I'll give it a go.
 
Well alright then.
The leak is on the bottom side of the gasket when looking into the trough as seen in the pic I just posted. It protrudes a bit from the crank walls so I'll need to cut it flush and then try loctite once it's cleaned up with ipa... Pretty tight friggin work space though.
Alas this option is free so I'll give it a go.

I have used the Loctite to seal the bearing pocket but not to fill a gap as wide as a missing piece of gasket. If cleaned up good enough to get rid of all oil a coating of JB Weld both inside and out may hold for a good while. I have used it successfully to repair holes punched into the oil tanks before and its held well.
 
I have used the Loctite to seal the bearing pocket but not to fill a gap as wide as a missing piece of gasket. If cleaned up good enough to get rid of all oil a coating of JB Weld both inside and out may hold for a good while. I have used it successfully to repair holes punched into the oil tanks before and its held well.


After more inspection I found the gasket isn't missing. It's a tiny leak between the bottom of the gasket and the crankcase. I cleaned the area for a good while with forceps, bits of shop towel and isopropyl and blew it dry. Then I used a super glue tip attached to a tube with wire in the tube to keep straight, filled the super glue tip with loctite, inserted tip into clear tube and into position and blew on the tube to get it to coat the leaking area. Then pulled vacuum which held just fine. I attached some pics for reference. The area cleaned up completely, no sign of loctite anywhere.

For the 15 minutes it took it was worth the attempt. I'll pressure test tomorrow to see if it does the trick. However I'm thinking that even if it holds under pressure cold, I'm not so sure it'll hold after running the engine and it expands a bit.
 

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tear the saw down and fix it correctly, it could have been done in the time you spent coming up with this jury rig. Your putting a bandaid on a cut that needs stitches. Spend the 40 bucks on a new gasket set before you have to buy a p&c too
 
I didn't read anywhere in the OP intro that you pulled the clutch and checked that the case screws were maybe in need of some tightening?
Just saying......
Maybe the extra stress of going up to the meatier 6m screws are distorting the crankcase just enough to cause a minor leak.
I used to make the mistake of over-torquing cylinder base screws, and accidently stripping them out once in a while.
Since I started utilizing an ever so slight coat of Yamabond-4, I don't fret leaks. That stuff is like Frank's Red Hot Sauce♧.....I put that s#!t on everything......
 
If you do find them a bit loose, I'd back the cylinder base screws off a half a turn until you get through tightening the case screws.

That might just do the trick, thanks for the advice. I didn't torque the cyl screws as I wasn't sure how to do the calculation or if it was necessary. I just hand tightened with a tap wrench on a 6inch torx bit. I cranked them pretty firm though. I'll give tightening the case screws a go today. I used yamabond on the head gasket on both sides also.

In other news the loc tite stopped the oil trough leak, no bubbles at 8psi. Bad news is I'm still leaking a little less than 1psi per minute, vast improvement but not sure if acceptable and where it's from. This is by no means a win, who knows if it would hold after it warms up. I will likely end up splitting the case I'd just like to get the sun running properly once to ensure everything else checks out before disassembly, mainly with idle to ensure the carb doesn't have a stuck metering valve or something,despite the carb rebuild twice.
 
I didn't read anywhere in the OP intro that you pulled the clutch and checked that the case screws were maybe in need of some tightening?
Just saying......
Maybe the extra stress of going up to the meatier 6m screws are distorting the crankcase just enough to cause a minor leak.
I used to make the mistake of over-torquing cylinder base screws, and accidently stripping them out once in a while.
Since I started utilizing an ever so slight coat of Yamabond-4, I don't fret leaks. That stuff is like Frank's Red Hot Sauce♧.....I put that s#!t on everything......

Clutch is pulled also, thats how I plugged the oil outlet to the pump, at first I pulled it to check the bearing race seal.
 
The case gaskets aren't very easy to find, are they? (064)
I had to resort to ebay last time I did one.
I may have just been lazy..... I can't remember.
Alex,are they the same as early 066?
I can get small or large tank ,066 gasket kits at Stihl here down under.
Cheers Chris.
Never done 064 case only 066,660.
 
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