066 oiler quit

[BIG JAKE]

I was milling yesterday. Got thru the first board and noticed my chain was dry. It was spraying oil good before I started. I took the bar off. Everything looked pretty clean including bar groove. I was thinking of rebuilding it or replacing with the 1122-640-3201 hi-volume unit. Are they rebuildable and where is the little gem located?

thanks in advance

 

[BIG JAKE]

Found it

I found Andy's post from a year ago-with part numbers. Nice post Andy! Will clean and flush the tank and hose, check the B4x2 seal, etc.

Any way to verify if I already have the hi-volume version below with a set of calipers? Number stamp?



Back to part 1: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=31559

O.K., we've cleaned, inspected everything and are ready to disassemble the oil pump, and insert the new piston and control screw. These parts are from the high output oil pump as used on the Australian 066 models. Parts cost is about $39 (list), or, you can just put in a new pump for $68 and sell the old one.

New Control bolt - 1128 647 4802
New Piston - 1122 647 0602

These are the two parts being replaced.

 

[Lakeside53]

Just check them visually against the parts I photographed. There are no numbers on them.

 

[BIG JAKE]

I'll give it a shot. Not sure I can conclude without them side by side. I'll see if any of the stihl dealers have one on hand. So am I looking for a smaller eccentric head on the control screw: http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32667&d=1143581296.

I think I'll be able to tell from the increased crescent area below shaft end.

 

[Timberhauler]

That seems to be a trend with Stihl..I'm begining to think that they design those oilers to go out after a while so you will be forced to buy more parts

 

[Lakeside53]

huh??? Who says there is even anything wrong with the oiler? They are pretty reliable.. Most failures are caused by abused clutch drums or clutch drum bearings.

 

[RiverRat2]

That seems to be a trend with Stihl..I'm begining to think that they design those oilers to go out after a while so you will be forced to buy more parts

Timber are you OK????? I really dont think that is the case... jmho

 

[Canyon Angler]

Great post on R&Ring the oiler, Lakeside. Thanks for posting up (yeah I know it's an old post but that's the first time I saw it).

I almost had to do that very same job recently on my 361 but the dealer fixed it ... I hope.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Just check them visually against the parts I photographed. There are no numbers on them.

Ok Andy-I pulled those parts out and they are the standard parts. I contacted one of the Stihl dealers here and they only saw one of these part numbers. I think it was the ...602 piston. List didn't show the other part. What's up with that? Do you foresee any issues if I order those anyway?

 

[Lakeside53]

The high volume pump is supposedly for Australia, and shown on the IPL, and available here. Both parts are in stock at Stihl NW... have you dealer check the parts in Mediacat (Dealer CD).

 

[Timberhauler]

huh??? Who says there is even anything wrong with the oiler? They are pretty reliable.. Most failures are caused by abused clutch drums or clutch drum bearings.

Timber are you OK????? I really dont think that is the case... jmho

Maybe it's just because I've had more Stihl's than I care to count,but I've had to put new oil pumps on several 44's and one 066....It's also happened once on a 200T.

 

[BIG JAKE]

The high volume pump is supposedly for Australia, and shown on the IPL, and available here. Both parts are in stock at Stihl NW... have you dealer check the parts in Mediacat (Dealer CD).

Will do-thanks.

I put the oil pump back together. There is side to side play at the pump end. What amount of play is exceptable?

 

[Lakeside53]

Not sure what you mean... How can you see play at the pump end (the end with the notch)?

 

[BIG JAKE]

If I grab the control screw where it engages the nylon drive gear and hold the pump housing with the other hand, I can feel quite a bit of play like the housing is worn(side to side play). Just an assumption-control screw is steel and the housing is aluminum. I'm thinking I'll just replace the assembly. Do you have the part number for the high output oiler assembly?

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes, if you have a worn pump housing, that's a problem. Running old engine oil is usually the culprit!

HO entire pump - 1122 640 3201

 

[BIG JAKE]

Old reliable Andy-thank you sir! I'll get that on order. Hope that's the one I get rather than the pump the dealer has in stock and was trying to tell me was good enough. Nope! Gimme the HO. Reality is he may be right for around here (I'll take a peek at the internals though just to make sure). We don't have as much hardwood down here as you folks up north, but I'd rather not run an auxiliary oiler if I can help it.

Just for the record, I don't run drain oil. I hate hassels-dad always ran that, but the additional bar wear, chain stretch, and the associated hassels aren't worth it IMO. Pump is sloppy though-that's why I backed out of replacing the internals.

Regards