066 operating tips request from the pro's

[BIG JAKE]

Safety - like any other saw, except be careful with pushback - it's a big saw with lots of grunt, and in and instant it will haul you over/under a log or push you to the ground!


For milling, turn the oiler up full, run it 40:1 , let it idle for a few minutes to cool down before shutting off, and never ever let it run out of gas while at full power... make sure your WOT is set conservatively... say 12,500 or less.

I'll get to know how long a tank lasts at WOT-then leave a buffer so I can idle/cool it down before I shut it off(use a timer). If I do a lot of milling I may add an aux tank. Just got a trailer to haul logs in. I want to mount a winch up front so I can load logs easier. Was thinking of welding up a fold out rail off the side so I can mill logs right off the trailer if I can't mill em' where they lay. Andy what do those tach's cost? Is that a must have or can I run richer(will do that anyway) to stay below 12.5k?
Thanks

 

[Lakeside53]

I'll get to know how long a tank lasts at WOT-then leave a buffer so I can idle/cool it down before I shut it off(use a timer). If I do a lot of milling I may add an aux tank. Just got a trailer to haul logs in. I want to mount a winch up front so I can load logs easier. Was thinking of welding up a fold out rail off the side so I can mill logs right off the trailer if I can't mill em' where they lay. Andy what do those tach's cost? Is that a must have or can I run richer(will do that anyway) to stay below 12.5k?
Thanks

It's not a must, but if you run a saw a a mill, the high end all starts to sound the same after a few hours! You can get tachs from $25 to $129. I use the Stihl EDT5, but have also used the tiny tach and the DTi2000. I'm considering gluing a Tiny Tach to the back of my mill saw so I can keep an eye on it - $25 is cheap insurance.

If you set to a burble then, wind it back a 1/8 to 1/4 turn, it will be close. If you're concerned, wind it open even more.

 

[BIG JAKE]

It's not a must, but if you run a saw a a mill, the high end all starts to sound the same after a few hours! You can get tachs from $25 to $129. I use the Stihl EDT5, but have also used the tiny tach and the DTi2000. I'm considering gluing a Tiny Tach to the back of my mill saw so I can keep an eye on it - $25 is cheap insurance.

If you set to a burble then, wind it back a 1/8 to 1/4 turn, it will be close. If you're concerned, wind it open even more.

That tiny tach sounds good. The only other consideration would be portability for use on my other saws. Have you checked it's accuracy against your EDT5? I remember seeing 12.5k or (maybe it was 13k-I better look that up again) rpm as max rpm for the 066. What is considered the right setting for milling apps? Are they optical or do they use a pickup coil off of the spark plug wire?

 

[wradman]

tach

my stihl one uses the elecrtical impulses off the electrical wire.
When i had my mill these guys really helped me out if you want to check out there website it is www.hondapenticton.com

 

[Lakeside53]

That tiny tach sounds good. The only other consideration would be portability for use on my other saws. Have you checked it's accuracy against your EDT5? I remember seeing 12.5k or (maybe it was 13k-I better look that up again) rpm as max rpm for the 066. What is considered the right setting for milling apps? Are they optical or do they use a pickup coil off of the spark plug wire?

The accuracy seems exactly the same as the Stihl - they are both digital.. and RF pickup.

Speed in the cut is more important for milling and that will depend on you chain, bar, wood etc. The tach is useful for setting (limiting) initial WOT, then monitoring what is happening while cutting (overspeed, bogging down) etc. You'll need to develop your own "standards" by observation. As for WOT, you are probably going to run the saw richer than normal, so it may be quite a lot lower than the max allowed. Err on the side of rich, then see what effect it has when in wood.

 

[BIG JAKE]

my stihl one uses the elecrtical impulses off the electrical wire.
When i had my mill these guys really helped me out if you want to check out there website it is www.hondapenticton.com

I'll check that out-thks.

 

[BIG JAKE]

The accuracy seems exactly the same as the Stihl - they are both digital.. and RF pickup.

Speed in the cut is more important for milling and that will depend on you chain, bar, wood etc. The tach is useful for setting (limiting) initial WOT, then monitoring what is happening while cutting (overspeed, bogging down) etc. You'll need to develop your own "standards" by observation. As for WOT, you are probably going to run the saw richer than normal, so it may be quite a lot lower than the max allowed. Err on the side of rich, then see what effect it has when in wood.

Thanks Andy and all. You guys probably saved me a lot of trouble. I hate learning things the hard way. I think I'll get one of these tachs too after I pay a few bills.

Alles Bestens

 

[wradman]

jake

some other steps you may want to look into are the chain type i was told to use ripping chain and file it straight across. I found sometimes i was losing time with dirty wood i even went as far as trying the carbide tip chains . that a whole new can of worms, you may want to go to bigger sprockets also.

 

[BIG JAKE]

some other steps you may want to look into are the chain type i was told to use ripping chain and file it straight across. I found sometimes i was losing time with dirty wood i even went as far as trying the carbide tip chains . that a whole new can of worms, you may want to go to bigger sprockets also.

I've seen a lot of variations in what folks use as far as chain goes-seems like a lot of variety and even preferences depending on wood density or hardwoods vs softwoods. I got a lot of learning to do. Guess trial and error. I can get every tooth the same angle and length with calipers but knowing which is best for what I'll mill I'll just have to try different variations such as making my own from standard chain with varying angles and also try ripping chain and compare that way. No sense in re-inventing the wheel though I'll take the advice and just try em. I got a cherry log waiting to mill(wish I had a band saw for that one). But mostly softwoods firs and pine. I need to pull the clutch cover and look at the rim sprocket to see what's on there. Whats your recommendation 8 or 9 teeth for firs and pine? I'd like to cant the log on opposite sides if I can find a way to keep the faces parallel. That cherry log i'll slice as she lays. I know the bark harbors dirt so I'll stick to clean wood to slice through when I can. No need for carbide though. What's your preference on rims are you running stihl or oregon? Also, I'm going to go thru this saw before I light it up:check the crank, compression, and I'll attempt to do a negative and positive pressure check most importantly to baseline this thing in advance. I'll search the posts also. What's your bar oil preference?

 

[oldsaw]

Jake, I've got good news and bad news for you.

The good news is that you are going to love that saw, also that it will do just fine for milling.

That's the good news. The bad news is that you won't want to use your other saws because they are too slow. Limbing will be the only exception.

Bar oil? What's cheap. I stock up at Wal-Mart, Menard's, or wherever it is $3 something a gallon.

Chain? I do primarily oak and walnut, with some other hardwoods. I'm still experimenting.

Mark

 

[BIG JAKE]

Jake, I've got good news and bad news for you.

The good news is that you are going to love that saw, also that it will do just fine for milling.

That's the good news. The bad news is that you won't want to use your other saws because they are too slow. Limbing will be the only exception.

Bar oil? What's cheap. I stock up at Wal-Mart, Menard's, or wherever it is $3 something a gallon.

Chain? I do primarily oak and walnut, with some other hardwoods. I'm still experimenting.

Mark

That's great I didn't buy it to look at! Good thing we got a kingsize bed I already sleep with my 028(not really). Sweet saw-with a good bar and a perfect chain it just cuts like a dream. But on the bar oil the reason I ask is I've seen some posts from folks that like motor oil, but being a thinner oil it seems to fly off easier and I want it to stay on the bar.

 

[wradman]

bar oil

just as long as your getting oil you will be fine , cut a little slower if you lean on it hard it will wear the bar faster and heat up the engine , some of the bars have a pretty small oil hole i used to drill some of mine with a 3/16 drill bit not all the way through just enough to make the oiler hole bigger. do you know how to turn your oiler up and down

 

[BIG JAKE]

just as long as your getting oil you will be fine , cut a little slower if you lean on it hard it will wear the bar faster and heat up the engine , some of the bars have a pretty small oil hole i used to drill some of mine with a 3/16 drill bit not all the way through just enough to make the oiler hole bigger. do you know how to turn your oiler up and down

Nope-school me please! :blob5:

 

[Bad E]

The best advice I could give you is this. Stay alert at all times, think about what you are about to do before you do it. And if you get tired take a break, accidents happen when you get tired and are not giving the complete attention of your body and your mind to the chainsaw and the task at hand.

 

[wradman]

oiler

i don't know where it is on a stihl but on a husky the adjuster is underneath the chain brake cover with a 1,2,3,4 for settings 4 being the highest volume,
if your chainsaw is using almost all the oil up to a tank of fuel it's fine.
as for the adjuster i'm sure someone else could tell us .