076 for chainsaw milling

[BobL]

Thanks bob, do you know where I can buy one of those wrench's?

Which wrench?

You need a special wrench to hold the clutch while loosening and tightening it. I made my own from some bits of steel. I'll see if I can find it and post a pic, Its not pretty but it works.

The left hand tightening torque wrench I bought mine from Supercheap Autos about 20 years ago. Mine is TENG tools with a half inch drive.Not many have the left hand torque setting action so check carefully before buying .

The crankshanft also needs to be prevented from rotating while setting the clutch nut torque. You can either use a piston stop that screws into the spark plu OR feed a piece of rope with a knot in it so the piston does not go over TDC. Be careful and make sure you use a clean rope with no loosestraps that might be left inside the cylinder.

You really need to get the PDF.

 

[BobL]

Had a look for the special wrench - no luck - it must be under the house.

The torque wrench is sometimes called a a bidirectional torque wrench
This is mine https://www.tengtools.com/products/...hes/1-2-torque-wrench-bi-directional-40-210nm

Here is a Kincrome version. https://www.totaltools.com.au/158264-kincrome-1-2inch-40-200nm-torque-wrench-k8501

Some people don't bother with the torque wrench and just crank it on really hard (its 75Nm or 55ft lbs)
I tried that but was sick and tired of picking up the clutch, nut, bearing and sprocket amongst the milled saw dust. Eventually I lost the nut - cost a ferking arm and a leg to get a new one.

 

[Aussie076]

Thanks Bob......i have the pdf and I fixed the broken spoken using a tool from a local repair shop however I would like to have my own.....thanks for the links...i didn't realise they were that easy to get.

 

[BobL]

I found a local supplier of the Teng tools bidirectional torque wrench
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/torq...6E6669673D3026&searchHistory={"enabled":true}
$207 - I think I paid around that or maybe a bit more ~20 years ago

 

[Aussie076]

So I have been using this beast over the last few weeks and I noticed that some of the bolt have vibrated out.

Does anyone know a good way to stop this.....i could use lock tight but I want to be able to take it apart again in the near future.

Cheers Royden

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

So I have been using this beast over the last few weeks and I noticed that some of the bolt have vibrated out.

Does anyone know a good way to stop this.....i could use lock tight but I want to be able to take it apart again in the near future.

Cheers Royden

Lock tight tight makes a "removable " thread locker, I've been using the blue with much success, the orange is very strong.

 

[FabianRW]

Had the same issue with the 076 for milling, medium strength thread locker is the solution but also make sure it has proper length bolts in place as it's a common issue and mine were replaced with shorter random ones.

You may also find over time it vibrates and changes it's idle speed, this needs adjusting anyway usually once while milling as the filter clogs up.

If you want the saw to last then run it for a minute either side of milling and once every meter or minute cutting, it has to cool itself at idle. I use that cooling time to check it visually, if it stalls or the starter is pulled back it should be taken apart and cleaned out as the vibrating loose bolts here cause that issue and it should be cleaned out anyway every so often.

Basically all maintenance needs doing more frequently because milling is harsh on it but the 076 has been very reliable and simple to fix when there is an issue. I didn't realize how tight the chains should be in milling at first and that increased vibration, so make sure after they're bedded in that you have them properly tight.
It should cut really well with properly tightened and sharpened chain with less vibration and high accuracy.

 

[Aussie076]

Has anyone else had issues with the clutch unwinding while running......i had issues today while milling......any ideas to how to fix/ stop this

 

[j-jock]

Could not agree more with Bob L's points. It is a powerhouse, but you will need frequent re-fueling, and the fuel cap location will necessitate taking the saw out each time should you run out mid cut. That will make you pull your hair out!

I like the saw for milling, but just want to agree with Aussie076. I went back to using a 2100XP, or sometimes a pair of them, simply because it was so much easier to add fuel and oil when you ran out in the middle of a cut. Now, I have a bandsaw mill, and don't alaska mill much anymore.

 

[Ryk]

Hi all.....I'm just getting started into chainsaw milling.....and I love it.

What's everyone thoughts and tips for using a Stihl 076 Super for chainsaw milling?

Cheers
Royden

I reckon an 076 would be the beez neez.
What are your plans for the slabs and what type of timber?
How did you get on?

I milled using one of those Canadian/Alaskan mill holders quite some years ago 38 years? using an AV056 a 30 " bar I think it was? and a ripping chain through logs of Celery Top Pine down in Tasmania.
Tough timber. Don't let "pine" fool you. It's unique to this island .
From my memory it was painfully slow and the boards needed lifting from jamming constantly.
I wore a rubber face mask with filters but still suffered from the dust.
I used the slabs for bearers for the roof mezzanine and the staircase.
I was young and quite agile back then to work the saw hard. .

 

[Ryk]

Thanks Bob

I think there a great saw, however you do raise great points,

Did you use an aux oiler or was the saws output enough?

Here's some pic of my first slabs with the 076.

No heartwood? Nice colour. Looks familiar.

 

[FabianRW]

Has anyone else had issues with the clutch unwinding while running......i had issues today while milling......any ideas to how to fix/ stop this

Almost, it started to do that, just needed cleaning out and not had the problem since. Should be done every so often before the issue occurs because it can catch it and pull it back in fast when the saw slows, which will knacker the cord etc.
Pretty easy to do, I don't think I had to release the spring or anything from memory, good design....

 

[BobL]

So I have been using this beast over the last few weeks and I noticed that some of the bolt have vibrated out.

My worst "lost a nut due to vibe" experience was the first time I used my 076 in a mill.
I used a 3/4" brass end cap as the cap for the aux oiler cap and it vibrated loose and fell onto the chain at WOT which sent it to the spot right between my eyes. Luckily I had a full face polycarbonate shield on but it still gave me black eyes.

I then added a chain as shown below but even that vibrated loose and fell off a couple of times - eventually I replaced it with a a black poly cap and that has never come off.

 

[FabianRW]

My worst "lost a nut due to vibe" experience was the first time I used my 076 in a mill.
I used a 3/4" brass end cap as the cap for the aux oiler cap and it vibrated loose and fell onto the chain at WOT which sent it to the spot right between my eyes. Luckily I had a full face polycarbonate shield on but it still gave me black eyes.

I then added a chain as shown below but even that vibrated loose and fell off a couple of times - eventually I replaced it with a a black poly cap and that has never come off.
View attachment 1021554

Not the worst nut injury due to excessive vibration I can think of.....