090AV running 9/16 chain

[cbfarmall]

If any direct drive was up to slinging a 1/2" chain, I would say your 1690 would have the best shot at it.
True 7/16" is hard to find, my wish is that someone would make a modern 7/16" pitch chain now. I guess I might as well wish for 1/2" while I'm at it.

You were with me at the time watching that 090G with that long bar, remember that?

I remember that. I thought it was .404. Either way, they were awful proud of that saw and bar. I think there were some setup issues there as well.

 

[fwgsaw]

I disagree with that statement, it was quite popular with many brands and models in the 60's.

You win.

 

[Modifiedmark]

You win.

I even took a nice 7/16" chain off a Sears/Roper H47 the other day. Lots of them used it.

 

[fwgsaw]

I even took a nice 7/16" chain off a Sears/Roper H47 the other day. Lots of them used it.

Yes there were lots of them. But there were way lots more that didn't use 7/16 but I don't want to argue. I'm actually working on a monkey ward with a ah47 right now that is going to get a new loop of 7/16 chipper. Oh and there's 90 feet of 7/16 on eBay right now for grabs.

 

[Metallichg]

try taking out bar and chain and while the chain fitted on the bar turn the chain around to see if it pinches in any specific spot. sometimes 1 or 2 drive link can be wider and bar groove narrower in some spots when brand new

I Spun the chain around the bar a bunch of times by hand, went nice and smooth. No tight spots.

 

[undee70ss]

7/16 might be OK except it is hard to find. Chris B.

Don't know how much he has left. http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...ch_X_.063_Gauge_Chain_Sold_By_Drive_Link.html

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yes there were lots of them. But there were way lots more that didn't use 7/16 but I don't want to argue. I'm actually working on a monkey ward with a ah47 right now that is going to get a new loop of 7/16 chipper. Oh and there's 90 feet of 7/16 on eBay right now for grabs.

Most guys who can't back up the statements they just throw out there usually don't want to argue when they get confronted over it.

I went and did a search for that chain you mentioned. Just searched 7/16 and low and behold how many 7/16" pitch sprockets showed up. Lots of different manufactures, Homelite, Poulan, McCulloch, Lombard, Titan, Bolens, Clinton, Remington, just what was listed and we know there were others as well.

Maybe the European saws didn't use it but it would be a short list of manufactures in the 60's that didn't use or offer 7/16" pitch chain.

 

[67L36Driver]

What gauge on the 7/16" fellas?

We are always looking for .058". It's a Remy collector thing.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Carl, the stuff listed right now was .063. It is priced for a deep pocket collector also..

 

[Robin Wood]

I Spun the chain around the bar a bunch of times by hand, went nice and smooth. No tight spots.

sometimes it will spin freely and smoothly but the drive links will climb over the tight spot and go back into the groove
make sure you pay attention to it and hope it doesnt get overlooked, if you are sure maybe it can be ruled out and try to look elsewhere

 

[Robin Wood]

View attachment 584978 7/16 chain is definitely getting harder to find course not that many saws ran it to begin with.

the drive links on those doesnt look any bigger than .404

 

[67L36Driver]

Back when I started collecting Remingtons, I tried .404 on a Bantam type. The 7/16" sprocket didn't like it.[emoji20]

 

[fwgsaw]

Most guys who can't back up the statements they just throw out there usually don't want to argue when they get confronted over it.

I went and did a search for that chain you mentioned. Just searched 7/16 and low and behold how many 7/16" pitch sprockets showed up. Lots of different manufactures, Homelite, Poulan, McCulloch, Lombard, Titan, Bolens, Clinton, Remington, just what was listed and we know there were others as well.

Maybe the European saws didn't use it but it would be a short list of manufactures in the 60's that didn't use or offer 7/16" pitch chain.

I think your stuck living in the 60s and that's ok.

 

[Metallichg]

sometimes it will spin freely and smoothly but the drive links will climb over the tight spot and go back into the groove
make sure you pay attention to it and hope it doesnt get overlooked, if you are sure maybe it can be ruled out and try to look elsewhere

Robin-do you think a direct drive Stihl 090 (with about 24" of chain available to cut) should be ok to run 9/16 chain? did you ever do this or see it done before? Just curious...

 

[Robin Wood]

if its healthy saw with everything set right(good compression, no air leaks, good clutch etc) it should pull easily
old timers ran 1/2" pitch on contras and 070 in my country back then on hardnose 42"+ bars
just to give rough idea how strong these saws are

 

[Metallichg]

if its healthy saw with everything set right(good compression, no air leaks, good clutch etc) it should pull easily
old timers ran 1/2" pitch on contras and 070 in my country back then on hardnose 42"+ bars
just to give rough idea how strong these saws are

Thanks Robin, it's good to have multiple perspectives. I pulled it off and set up for milling chain, I think next time I try 9/16 I will make sure I am running a roller tip bar.

 

[bulletpruf]

I would think about doing a gasket delete and a muffler mod. The muffler outlet on these saws seems to be a restriction to me; I think it would be easy to add another outlet to the side.

 

[Robin Wood]

gasket delete will help but muffler are wide open dont you think ?
my 090 had gasket delete, real sumbich to pull the recoil

 

[Metallichg]

gasket delete will help but muffler are wide open dont you think ?
my 090 had gasket delete, real sumbich to pull the recoil

What is gasket delete? is it using gasket maker under the cylinder instead of the stock gasket to increase compression? if so, wouldn't that be prone to leak over time?

 

[OldJack]

What is gasket delete? is it using gasket maker under the cylinder instead of the stock gasket to increase compression? if so, wouldn't that be prone to leak over time?

That was a pretty common practise with high performance WW II aircraft engines, although it requires a precision planed fit. Actually chainsaws and many aircraft engines don't have a separate head, and bolt the whole cylinder to the block or crankcase. This eliminates the high pressure joint between the head and cylinder.