12" bar or 14" bar on climbing saw?

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same here.........if you know how to use the saw you can cut 40" dia with a 20" bar easily.


SIGH................not the point, maybe you have all day to gnaw on big wood with a little saw, but why ????

I'm in it to MAKE money.
time is money.
get done, go make more money.

some people get so caught up in making THEIR point, they lose sight of the issue.
which is;
THE IDEAL BAR LENGTH. it's based on several factors, but since this is the commercial climbing forum, its about business. i.e. money. and especially safety.

:deadhorse:
 
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i find myself one handing the 12in like a crazed loonatic, i rarely even turn the saw off during heavy prunes. the longer bar will force u to use 2 hands so your wrists dont kill u after an hours work. get the 14 keep both hands on her make cuts with care and get better and better. imo the 16 is a lil much and the 12 is just shy.
 
SIGH................not the point, maybe you have all day to gnaw on big wood with a little saw, but why ????

I'm in it to MAKE money.
time is money.
get done, go make more money.

some people get so caught up in making THEIR point, they lose sight of the issue.
which is;
THE IDEAL BAR LENGTH. it's based on several factors, but since this is the commercial climbing forum, its about business. i.e. money. and especially safety.

:deadhorse:
I cut 4' - 5" stumps all the time with saws as small as a 372xp / 28".

lol
where am I "so caught up in making THEIR point" I was just agreeing with a post, I have a large saw with 36 bar and can get bigger if I need it but so many people think you MUST have a bar that matches the wood diameter and if you don't then you can't do the work, well, that is just plain B/S plain & simple..............
 
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I am of the opinion that while the ms200T is the best climb saw currently sold, it is not the most powerful climb saw. The old magnesium cased 020T actually has more raw power, despite being a bit temperamental and not being as well balanced.

I still have a magnesium cased 020T in excellent condition that I can prove my opinion with.

jomoco
 
I actually use a 170 in the trees with a 12" bar. I have a 12" bar because I have a pole saw with a 12" bar and therefore I don't need all sizes of chain. Today was kinda hairy. I was up the tree with a 440 bombing a tree in VERY tight quarters. Cut the chunks in 16" logs and then sent them down with the 440 hanging off the belt. Don't like doing that too much.

For climbing, I like the 24" bar on the 440! :greenchainsaw:
 
be carful who u get your info from on this site as many beg fer the rep they have. lmao
 
My ms880 pretty much stays in my tool box with no bar on it until the wood gets pretty dang big, over 4 feet.

My 394 sees a little more action, between 3-4 feet.

It's my 365's that get used the most up top when necessary.

And on those occassions when I want to buck up some serious wood on the ground, my ms440 with a 24 inch bar gets fired up.

If you need a bar that matches the wood's diameter, you must be a rookie that can't cut straight.

The majority of arborists I know, even those that have been at it for over 10 years, can't sharpen chains, or dress their bars properly, just enough to get crookedly by with. I see their chains and laugh as they get loose then tight as I turn their chain by hand. When I suggest new drive washers to cure that problem, it seems to go in one ear and out the other.

I have a 262xp with 325 pitch chain that I like to use in large wood in the tree, particularly if there's alot of it up there, not quite the power of a 365, but considerably lighter for a wimpy old foggy like me to handle.

jomoco

As to being a rookie who can't cut straight I have been doing this for over 18 years now since my neighbor took me out working when I was 12. I have been cutting trees ever since then. I climbed for over eight years till a couple of freak accidents turned into a 20 foot plus fall. My rope was tired and failed when the limb I was on broke and I fell from about 25 feet in the air. I had about 5 foot of slack so I could move around out on the limb so it stopped me at first then broke and I continued to the ground. I have taken numerous large trees out with nothing but my old 262 with a 20 inch bar. I have learned over the years it's not worth my time to make two cuts just to say I can cut a big tree with a saw half as big. I want to control how my hinge lets the wood fall instead of trying to cut it from two sides and hope it's going to go the way I want it. It's also I want to get the job done as fast and professionally as I can. Not have the customer come out and look at me like I'm an idiot for using an undersized saw.
 
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be carful who u get your info from on this site as many beg fer the rep they have. lmao


I'm not sure who you are talking about but to me the Rep parts have always been a joke to me as too many buddies slapping each others backs can sit there and rep each other to the moon then slam the people who actually do know what they are talking about and then disagree with what they think.
 
lol
where am I "so caught up in making THEIR point" I was just agreeing with a post, I have a large saw with 36 bar and can get bigger if I need it but so many people think you MUST have a bar that matches the wood diameter and if you don't then you can do the work, well, that is just plain B/S plain & simple..............

so you quote me from 2 different threads trying to make YOUR point.
Well lets tell this newbie what SHOULD be done, not just what YOU can do.

the stump quote was meant to show that a mid sized saw can do a big stump. different thread and context entirely, but hey if it makes YOUR point, drag it all the site, I don't care.
anybody can type.
I post pics.
 
A 200t without a 16" is just an injustice!! The saw blances fine, has plenty of powerand it gives you more reach.
!6" ALWAYS on my 200t.
The 192t, I run a 14", just for the reach again, but a 12" wouldn't be a terible thing.
 
so you quote me from 2 different threads trying to make YOUR point.
Well lets tell this newbie what SHOULD be done, not just what YOU can do.

the stump quote was meant to show that a mid sized saw can do a big stump. different thread and context entirely, but hey if it makes YOUR point, drag it all the site, I don't care.
anybody can type.
I post pics.
that pic is very familiar. is that the treeslayer? be honest now.
 
A 200t without a 16" is just an injustice!! The saw blances fine, has plenty of powerand it gives you more reach.
!6" ALWAYS on my 200t.
The 192t, I run a 14", just for the reach again, but a 12" wouldn't be a terible thing.
stop cutting over your head and go to the work, u will look and feel more like a pro.:greenchainsaw:
 
Ilike to put the smallest bar on a saw usually.[ms200tw/12 or 14"bar,i have both]
For me it has nothing with bulkyness,as it has to do with speed.Longer bars tend to slow down the saws of the same size and power.
Personally i like the saw razor sharp, mean lean &screamin.
Can't get carried away though,have to know when to stop with lil saw and get something with more reach ,and more power,[290 ,310, or 361 in my case].
Big saws hanging off the hip are a #####though.


You'all Think we have the poster confused yet?
We're all trying to help you man. just have different opinions.
I've worked with some for years,and we still can't agree all the time.

Find what works best for you .It will come in time.


BE SAFE
 
stop cutting over your head and go to the work, u will look and feel more like a pro.:greenchainsaw:

Come work on some of these beaten Elms!! It's nothing to do with overhead, it's trying to trim without spikes!
 
That sounds like a good combo. I'm running 16" on both of my 200t and I bet the 12 works much better for pruning.

Not starting a war here, just trying to learn.

Why do you think that Dan? Can you not control the saw well enough that you feel comforable using the 16?
Is the bar flex a contributing problem?

Honestly, for pruning, I much preffer the 192t, it's nimbleness and weight make it a pleasure to use. I also find it a lot more controlable. I really need to get that thing running again!!!!
 
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