16” or 18” bar more reasonable on MS261c when converting to 3/8” chain?

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MarkinGA

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So have a new MS261c and was planning to convert it to 3/8” 0.050” to match all my other chains. It will serve as an understudy to my MS462c which is wearing a TsuMura 28” light bar.

Was planning to grab either a 16” or an 18” TsuMura light bar for the 261c. Just not sure which is a more practical fit for that saw and 3/8” chain?

Seeking advice
Mark in GA
 
I have a 261 that I tried putting a full size 3/8th .050, 20" bar and chain on it. It was a Stihl Rollamatic bar and a full chisel non skip chain.

It ran it so - so. It just didn't have the power to get all that wood out of the kerf and still keep the rpms up.

I was running a 7 tooth drive sproket.

I normaly run the .325 .063 bar and chain. 20" bar and 7 tooth drive sproket.

The 7 tooth .325 drive sproket is a good bit smaller than the 7 tooth 3/8th sproket, even though its still a 7 tooth both sizes, the 3/8th has a longer pitch and so therefore the circumference is obviously more.

With the 3/8 versus the .325 it was almost like two steps bigger: bigger chain and bigger drive sproket

I also tried Stihls "light" 3/8th .050 on the 261. It had plenty of power to run it, but I was having trouble with it having cutting issues when it was sharpened halfway. It would bind in the cut. Almost like the cutters were getting too narrow and not creating a big enough kerf for the bar to slide through.

My two cents.....................
 
I bought a new 261 last spring (carb version). When i ordered it up, i told my local shop that i wanted a 16” bar. I assumed that it would come with the .325 bar, but the shop installed a 3/8” on it instead. The shop said that most guys wanted the 3/8”, so they assumed that’s what i wanted as well. I had them swap out the bar and chain to .325 yellow strap. I’m VERY pleased with how quickly it cuts! If i need to cut a bigger tree or log, then i just grab a bigger saw.
 
Would run a 16 inch on a stock 261.
I run a ported 261 and use both a 16" and 18" 3/8 .050

Tend to use the 18" the most but think it would be a bit much for a stock saw if buried in hard wood. If cutting soft wood then the 18" may be OK. 20" will work on the ported saw but it makes it too nose heavy and out of balance. The ported saw cuts very well with 3/8 .050.

I run all 3/8 .050 which makes it easy to sharpen and can always shorten a longer chain from another saw if needed in a pinch. Run Stihl RS chain.

That is a great saw when ported and have had it for over 10 years. Ported by MMWS.
 
Would run a 16 inch on a stock 261.
I run a ported 261 and use both a 16" and 18" 3/8 .050

Tend to use the 18" the most but think it would be a bit much for a stock saw if buried in hard wood. If cutting soft wood then the 18" may be OK. 20" will work on the ported saw but it makes it too nose heavy and out of balance. The ported saw cuts very well with 3/8 .050.

I run all 3/8 .050 which makes it easy to sharpen and can always shorten a longer chain from another saw if needed in a pinch. Run Stihl RS chain.

That is a great saw when ported and have had it for over 10 years. Ported by MMWS.
Yep. I’m running a 16” .325 on my MMWS 261c but with an 8 pin rim. It’s fast.
 
That sounds like a good set up @ElevatorGuy!!

I run .325 20" with 7 pin rim.

I tried 8 pin but the torque dropped too much, especially in hardwoods.
I had plans to experiment with 3/8 or a .325 8 pin after I got my 550xp ported, but never did. I've decided that properly sharpened semi-chisel is too good a balance of performance/durability that it doesn't make sense to get out the stop watch.
 
On my ported 261 I run a 20 inch 3/8 picco chain instead of the .325 it came with. This is great for limbing but I wouldn't really want to bury it in oak for instance.

If I was running full 3/8 (which I don't think is a good idea) I'd stick to 16 inch and don't file the chain too aggressively.
 
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