freemind
ArboristSite Guru
I would sooner bet someone replaced the studs with left hand threaded studs.
I have never heard of this before. I have seen left hand threads on some older axles.
1970 F350 advice
- Thread starter KMB
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I would sooner bet someone replaced the studs with left hand threaded studs.
I have never heard of this before. I have seen left hand threads on some older axles.
chowdozer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, they were special alright. Special in that Ford always likes to change things and not tell anyone. Kinda a hit miss operation for them.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/831870-left-hand-thread-lugs.html
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
Better than the get out an push chevy syndrome!
chowdozer
Addicted to ArboristSite
you're thinking of the Ford ####pile you traded in for the Dodge. LOL
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
Nope I am thinking of either my 78 f 350 400 4 speed or my 66 f 250 390 4 speed 4+4 the real henry's you know the ones that pulled you chevy boyz out the mud!!!!!!!!!
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
I haven't been back to see the truck lately, and my friend has been to busy to get it cleaned up and started. The farm, where the truck sits, is almost an hour away, and I'm usually there on a Saturday when I'm working for my friend on the farm. But the last few Saturdays have been canceled due to rain and haying (he doesn't need my help). His wife did get the VIN and other numbers for me via email.
F35YLG32459
159 T F355 5 8 A 27
09000 170 4100
I found a site where these numbers can be decoded
F-350 2WD, 360 cid 8-cyl (current engine is still a 360), 159" wheelbase (ex-motorhome), 9000 GVW, 4 speed new process 435 transmission, 4.10 - Dana 70 - 7400 lbs (axle load supporting rating?).
There is other info such as paint colors and so on.
danrclem, if you can get other info from the numbers, post away!
Kevin
danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
I found this site that decodes the paint and other information.
http://www.fordification.com/data-1970.htm
It appears to have candyapple red paint and it was built Aug. 1969. It was the 2,459th vehicle to come down the line. I can't figure out the interior code. The 4.10 rear was a non-locking unit.
The car engine codes were the fifth digit of the vin but I guess they did the truck vins a little different. Hope this helps.
Danny
Last edited:
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
bonnieville
ArboristSite Member
Kevin,
I say go for it! I paid $700 hundred for mine back in Feb '06. It was running, had good tires, not much rust and needed some brake work.
If done some work on it since then. Most systems are pretty simple and parts are readily available. The brakes are massive 12x3 drums all around. The left rear studs are left hand threaded.
My truck easily carries up to 3000 lbs. More than that, there is still plenty of power, but the handling and braking does suffer. I just don't drive that fast. I plan to get the rear spring rearched and add rear shocks to improve the weight carrying abilities.
Others have recommended www.fordification.com for information. For anything you can't find on the site, check the forums at http://www.fordification.com/forum/index.php . There's a good bunch of guys there. Tell them Flatbedford sent you.
I say go for it! I paid $700 hundred for mine back in Feb '06. It was running, had good tires, not much rust and needed some brake work.
If done some work on it since then. Most systems are pretty simple and parts are readily available. The brakes are massive 12x3 drums all around. The left rear studs are left hand threaded.
My truck easily carries up to 3000 lbs. More than that, there is still plenty of power, but the handling and braking does suffer. I just don't drive that fast. I plan to get the rear spring rearched and add rear shocks to improve the weight carrying abilities.
Others have recommended www.fordification.com for information. For anything you can't find on the site, check the forums at http://www.fordification.com/forum/index.php . There's a good bunch of guys there. Tell them Flatbedford sent you.
bonnieville
ArboristSite Member
I was just thinking, what the heck do you need firewood down there in Arkansas for anyway! 
But then I remembered passing through there in November about 15 years ago and it was darn cold!
But then I remembered passing through there in November about 15 years ago and it was darn cold!
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Steve,
Nice, clean looking truck. Seeing your truck makes me want to go out to where 'my' truck is and look it over right now. But I'll have to wait. I do have the assurance that it won't be going anywhere.
Thanks for your input. I'll have to make sure and remember about the left rear studs
Kevin
danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, that truck should carry 3,000 lbs real easy. I had a 1988 heavy duty F250 with single rear tires that had an 8,800 lb. gvwr. It was the next step down from an F350. It would carry a full 450 gal. water tank that had 3,755 lbs. of water in it and it didn't sit the truck down much at all.
That looks like a good wood hauler for $700.00. I wish I had my old Ford back.
bonnieville
ArboristSite Member
I'm sure I've put at least 3 times that into it since I bought it 3 1/2 years ago. But, it is my only hobby, it keeps me happy and serves me well too.
I don't see how you'll get much money back out of it.
You don't seem to be thinking of a lot of bisiness.
Registration and insurance will be several hundred bucks a year and it's a gas hog!
30 miles, each way=6 gallons of fuel, if it's running well, which is nearly $20 now and will be a lot more when gas goes back up.
Yes, it's a nice old beater, maybe, but will cost you.
The guy has a rotting junker now, so why is it worth more than $200?
Try to handle the tire yourself, AFTER everything else is taken care of. Why waste money on it sooner. If you handle it yourself you can get e good usable tire, installed, for $20-30, at least around here, which is a high cost area. The other tires are probably rotting too, so don't expect a lot of heavy hauling before they start going too
Expect to work on the brakes. At that age, lines will be rotting/rusting away.
Check the book on the clutch. If it's hydraulic, it's big bucks. If not, it's just expensive.
Engines pull hard in RVs. They sell special exhaust manifolds because the RVs run them so hot.
Are you trying to baby your '97? Why not get a liner and use the thing? For what you spend on the old truck, you can get close to buying a heavy trailer, which you can park when it's not needed.
I love bringing old things back, but I usually wind up paying.
My "new" pickup is an '89 F-150. It's FAR better than the '82 beater it replaced. It was a great buy at $500, but took $500 more to clean out the tank, and , after a year or so, $800 for a clutch. I knew and expected both expenses and it's still a good buy at $1800. It's clean, no rust, and no dents. I expect it to last for at least ten yrs, by which time I'll probably too old to use it!
I sold a worn out beater '82 F-150 to a friend because he pestered me for it. He asked how much I wanted and on a whim I said $500! They have a few horses and they love the old truck, go figure. I liked it too, but it had worn the engine until my 16' tandem was really bogging it down. The '89 pulls the tandem as fast as I want to go and takes gearing down only on moderate hills. It's a 5 sp too, which makes for a great cruise, 70 mi/hr easily.
I'd take the fuel line off at the carb and crank some clean gas through from the tank (after draining) before letting any into the carb. Be sure there is a NEW filter in the line too. The leak is probably the bowl gasket and maybe overflow from a too high float level or stuck float valve.
Let us know what happens if you check it out.
You don't seem to be thinking of a lot of bisiness.
Registration and insurance will be several hundred bucks a year and it's a gas hog!
30 miles, each way=6 gallons of fuel, if it's running well, which is nearly $20 now and will be a lot more when gas goes back up.
Yes, it's a nice old beater, maybe, but will cost you.
The guy has a rotting junker now, so why is it worth more than $200?
Try to handle the tire yourself, AFTER everything else is taken care of. Why waste money on it sooner. If you handle it yourself you can get e good usable tire, installed, for $20-30, at least around here, which is a high cost area. The other tires are probably rotting too, so don't expect a lot of heavy hauling before they start going too
Expect to work on the brakes. At that age, lines will be rotting/rusting away.
Check the book on the clutch. If it's hydraulic, it's big bucks. If not, it's just expensive.
Engines pull hard in RVs. They sell special exhaust manifolds because the RVs run them so hot.
Are you trying to baby your '97? Why not get a liner and use the thing? For what you spend on the old truck, you can get close to buying a heavy trailer, which you can park when it's not needed.
I love bringing old things back, but I usually wind up paying.
My "new" pickup is an '89 F-150. It's FAR better than the '82 beater it replaced. It was a great buy at $500, but took $500 more to clean out the tank, and , after a year or so, $800 for a clutch. I knew and expected both expenses and it's still a good buy at $1800. It's clean, no rust, and no dents. I expect it to last for at least ten yrs, by which time I'll probably too old to use it!
I sold a worn out beater '82 F-150 to a friend because he pestered me for it. He asked how much I wanted and on a whim I said $500! They have a few horses and they love the old truck, go figure. I liked it too, but it had worn the engine until my 16' tandem was really bogging it down. The '89 pulls the tandem as fast as I want to go and takes gearing down only on moderate hills. It's a 5 sp too, which makes for a great cruise, 70 mi/hr easily.
I'd take the fuel line off at the carb and crank some clean gas through from the tank (after draining) before letting any into the carb. Be sure there is a NEW filter in the line too. The leak is probably the bowl gasket and maybe overflow from a too high float level or stuck float valve.
Let us know what happens if you check it out.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
While that can sometimes be the case, it can also be the farthest from the truth as well.
I have a 66 f 250 that I am not afraid to go anywhere in and I have hauled heavy loads in and it keeps going and going. I have a 78 f 350 400 ci that with a little tlc will be the same and the old henry's are tough trucks simple to work on and dependable. You must have had a bad experience and 800.00 for a clutch is a rip off imo. I would thing the fuel to be the power valve in the carb leaking down while setting as they where bad about doing.I agree to clean the tank and inspect it for leaks top and bottom.
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Some interesting points.
I do want the truck, but I'm taking it slow and gathering as much info as possible and looking it over real good when I get back to it. Of course a test drive is in order.
Yes, I have thought about and I will be checking on the insurance and registration costs.
I understand the bad fuel mileage it will get. Most 1 ton trucks (newer, a bit better, but higher initial cost) will suck back the gas.
I'm not a mechanic, but I do have mechanical skills and don't mind getting my hands dirty.
The '97 (1/2 ton, 4.6L, 3:55 gears) has been (and still is) a good truck. When the rear shocks needed replacing, I installed some heavier duty shocks. I also have Timbren springs on. These upgrades are not for more loading, but to keep the hind end from dropping so much. For fairly large firewood duties, a neighbor lends me his 18' braked car hauler (7000# GVWR, trailer weighs 1920# empty, leaving 5080# for a load), which I have built wood rails/sides for to haul firewood. I have put 1 cord of firewood on that trailer a few times and pulled it with the F150. The truck handled it okay...but it doesn't feel right going down the road. I have a brake controller, so the braking is fine. It could just be me, but it 'feels' like the frame flexes when pulling that much (according to Ford specs, my truck from the factory is only rated to pull 6600#'s). Yes, I'm probably overweight by maybe 300#'s with the loaded trailer, but I take it slow. Gradual acceleration, gradual braking and so on. So I am working the truck. I don't want to abuse my truck. Some might think I'm 'babying' it...I don't. I know there are lots of guys using 1/2 tons for their firewood duties, and some of them have are also wanting 'more truck'. To each his own. I do use my 1/2 ton for other '1/2 ton' duties around the house and for a second reliable driver when I have to go to town (when my wife has the family wagon) or to go camping, hunting and so on. With a 1 ton, I'd like to pull the trailer, and put a load on the deck. This 1 ton has come up, so I'm looking into it to see if I want to mess with it. I do expect to put some money into it.
If I bought a 'proper' trailer (to be able to haul at least a cord of Oak, about 5000#'s), I would have it for whenever I needed it (wouldn't have to borrow), but I'd still wouldn't have the truck I'd like to 'properly' pull it with.
The owner might be trying to start the truck when I'm not there and he has the time. Only thing I can do is suggest that he drain the old fuel, and he'll do what he wants. I know I would definitely drain the old fuel...but it's not my truck right now.
Long winded post...but trying to explain my reasoning and situation.
Kevin
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was just thinking, what the heck do you need firewood down there in Arkansas for anyway!
There are a few months of the year when it gets 'cold' enough to turn on the heat in the house. I don't need that many cords (about 3 cords) to get me through the 'winter'
. I use the wood burner to supplement the electric furnace. I do try and cut a little extra to sell when I can, and I now cut for my mom-in-law who uses her wood burner solely for heat in her mobile home.Kevin
bonnieville
ArboristSite Member
I forgot to add that my '70 F350 gets between 7 and 8 mpg. I only put about 1000 miles on the truck per year, so the fuel consumption isn't such a big deal to me. I commute in my 30 mpg Ford Focus.
AOD
Addicted to ArboristSite
Remember, a brand-new Ford 1-ton V-8 gets about 6 MPG in town, so an old truck is no more of a "gas hog" than a brand new one, and it will be a much more capable truck. If anything else it will get better mileage because it doesn't have to power a gas-sucking automatic, with a stick, the driver is in more control of how much gas is used.
Registration and insurance will cost just as much on a newer truck, and if it's really new insurance will be a lot more.
If you think an old truck is expensive to fix, try having a newer truck fixed, about a year out of warranty, and something computerized is acting up. It will make you really appreciate the old stuff.
gilraine
ArboristSite Guru
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
Sponsors' stores or best places to buy Bars, Chains, etc.
- Latest: EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar
-
