A few weekends ago, finally pulled the 5.7 out. Dropped an exhaust valve that did some damage to the lining of number 5. It's already got .040 pistons in it now and I'm no mechanic so I'm probably just going to put in a crate motor replacement.
1987 C30 Engine Out and Getting Replaced
- Thread starter Gumneck
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This may not get many views but if they're any chevy guys on board, let me know your experience with a crate motor. Who you bought from? How's the motor now? Any surprises you weren't expecting etc.
thanks
Tom
thanks
Tom
We replaced the 5.7L in my dad's 99 Chevy Tahoe. He asked around and eventually bought a long block from a large chevy dealer. Pretty simple swap but we got the distributor 180 degrees out of time and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start. We also had the transmission rebuilt or checked over at the same time. The problem I had was getting the transfer case back in...no lift so laying on your back.. At this moment the motor has 50k. The vehicle has 192K on it and I still drive it weekly.
Don't forget to put a new throw out bearing on there after you polish up the input shaft a bit.
Keep your old cars/trucks as long as you can. You can still work on them yourself.
GM crate motor is a solid replacement. I'd update ignition and fuel intake setups to something simple and easy to work on.
The old single wire GM HEI distributors are all you need (add an advance curve kit), and a good 4-bbl or TB FI. I also hate having the fuel pump inside the gas tank. My SBCs are set up with Holley 4150s and Carter mech pumps.
In my trucks I keep a spare 1-wire distributor behind the seat and I can change it out road side in ~1/2 hour.
GM crate motor is a solid replacement. I'd update ignition and fuel intake setups to something simple and easy to work on.
The old single wire GM HEI distributors are all you need (add an advance curve kit), and a good 4-bbl or TB FI. I also hate having the fuel pump inside the gas tank. My SBCs are set up with Holley 4150s and Carter mech pumps.
In my trucks I keep a spare 1-wire distributor behind the seat and I can change it out road side in ~1/2 hour.
What did you end up buying?
Jasper has gotten a lot better than they used to be. I'd not hesitate to throw in one of their short or long blocks. Pretty sure they come with a 3 yr/100,000 mile warranty.
Jasper has gotten a lot better than they used to be. I'd not hesitate to throw in one of their short or long blocks. Pretty sure they come with a 3 yr/100,000 mile warranty.
Been out of sync for a while now as springtime vineyard work was taking alot of my time and to make matters worse my father inlaw lost his battle with cancer.
So I'm still in the looking stage for an engine seller for a long block....I know, that was 2 months ago. That's pretty much on par for me.
Who is Blueprint and why not GM?
I'd dump the stupid hyd clutch assy and retrofit a mechanical setup. Would need a bellhousing and pedal assy. Surface the flywheel and at least a new disc and bearing, PP would be good to. If you keep the hyd assy consider a new slave cylinder.
What you going to run for intake/carb/FI?
I'd dump the stupid hyd clutch assy and retrofit a mechanical setup. Would need a bellhousing and pedal assy. Surface the flywheel and at least a new disc and bearing, PP would be good to. If you keep the hyd assy consider a new slave cylinder.
What you going to run for intake/carb/FI?
@Mad Professor
This engine is setup to run the original TBI that I had in the truck. I'm no mechanic by any means so just looking to put it back into use with hopefully as little change as necessary. The only thing that's different from stock is the fact that it is a roller cam design and not the flat tappet cam. After a lot of reading I wasn't comfortable with getting a rebuilt motor using a flat tappet cam. The 350 that I removed was a rebuilt motor with .030 pistons.
The Blue Print Engine is supposed to be 260HP dyno tested vs the GM 210hp roller cam "READY" but using a flat tappet.
The GM motor was 500 bucks less but again hopefully the roller camshaft is a better design. Both the GM and BPE are new blocks and heads.
I plan to put a new clutch in the truck and go ahead with a new slave cylinder while everything is out.
I can only say BP engines has some good feedback from other Chevrolet sites I've been on to learn more about what I way I should go. This is my first motor pull and replace so I know enough to be dangerous to myself and others.
This engine is setup to run the original TBI that I had in the truck. I'm no mechanic by any means so just looking to put it back into use with hopefully as little change as necessary. The only thing that's different from stock is the fact that it is a roller cam design and not the flat tappet cam. After a lot of reading I wasn't comfortable with getting a rebuilt motor using a flat tappet cam. The 350 that I removed was a rebuilt motor with .030 pistons.
The Blue Print Engine is supposed to be 260HP dyno tested vs the GM 210hp roller cam "READY" but using a flat tappet.
The GM motor was 500 bucks less but again hopefully the roller camshaft is a better design. Both the GM and BPE are new blocks and heads.
I plan to put a new clutch in the truck and go ahead with a new slave cylinder while everything is out.
I can only say BP engines has some good feedback from other Chevrolet sites I've been on to learn more about what I way I should go. This is my first motor pull and replace so I know enough to be dangerous to myself and others.
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