Nice splitter and resto, Rory
24 TON Brave Splitter Rebuild
- Thread starter LowVolt
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J.Walker
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Nice job!
I have the same splitter.
Just replaced the B&S motor this past fall with a Honda engine. Starting is no longer a problem with the new motor.
I have the same splitter.
Just replaced the B&S motor this past fall with a Honda engine. Starting is no longer a problem with the new motor.
fordf150
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looks nice painted up.
try setting the valves tight. briggs motors are set to .004 and .006 i think and on some engines they like to be set at almost 0 to turn over without kicking back. also what oil are you running in it? 30W works good down to about 40 degrees. Any colder and the engine starts getting hard to turn over. Try switching to 5w30 synthetic.
try setting the valves tight. briggs motors are set to .004 and .006 i think and on some engines they like to be set at almost 0 to turn over without kicking back. also what oil are you running in it? 30W works good down to about 40 degrees. Any colder and the engine starts getting hard to turn over. Try switching to 5w30 synthetic.
Just running 10w30
So here is what I have done. I tried setting the valve clearance to spec, no go. Tried the next two smaller on my feeler gauge, no go. I pulled the flywheel and the key looked fine but just put a new one in for giggles. Put itback together and reset valves back to spec. Tried to start it today and it started on the third pull but just did not feel right. It seemed to run good. It would throttle up fine and run at low speed/idle. I turned it off. Then tried to restart. I could not get it to start. It just felt like it did when I tried to start it. Felt like more compression and just sounded like it wasn't sucking in/blowing out right (valves?). It was not ripping your arm off but still something is not quiet right.
How did you determine TDC?
Like stated in the attached PDF in this thread. There is an arrow stamped into part of the flywheel that you line up with the recoil.
zogger
Tree Freak
Muffler plugged up?
I don't believe so. I will check.
Well I am happy to report that with the help of you guys and especially @Knobby57 I figured out the problem.
Let's backtrack a bit. After trying to adjust the valves myself and getting them all out of whack, I surrendered and took it to my local stihl dealer/small engine shop. He looked at it and adjusted the valves correctly, fixed an issue with the hydraulic control valve and gave it an oil change and they charged me zero dollars. He started it up for me and it started one pull. So I towed it home, parked it in the garage and then I tried to start it. That SOB about ripped my hand off again. WTF is going on? I took the splitter back up there. He said my first problem was I was towing it with the fuel valve on. It took him a few pulls but he got that dam thing started without pulling his arm off. Seriously, wtf?!? I took it home again and waited till the next morning to start it. Ripped my arm off again. So I reached out to knobby. He replied with, "take the pump off and see what happens." Well wouldn't you know that engine fired first pull every morning for five straight mornings without taking my arm off. So my problem wasn't the engine at all. It was union of the lovejoys/spider. I had to use four washers in between the engine and pump to space the lovejoys correctly. Well it turns out I used three grade 8 washers and one zinc washer. The zinc washer was pretty thin compared to the grade 8 ones. This slight difference caused just a slight binding issue on first cold start up. Four matching washers and this thing starts first pull, zero kickback.
To celebrate I got a few chunks of ash in my driveway to put this new engine to the test. I can't wait!
Let's backtrack a bit. After trying to adjust the valves myself and getting them all out of whack, I surrendered and took it to my local stihl dealer/small engine shop. He looked at it and adjusted the valves correctly, fixed an issue with the hydraulic control valve and gave it an oil change and they charged me zero dollars. He started it up for me and it started one pull. So I towed it home, parked it in the garage and then I tried to start it. That SOB about ripped my hand off again. WTF is going on? I took the splitter back up there. He said my first problem was I was towing it with the fuel valve on. It took him a few pulls but he got that dam thing started without pulling his arm off. Seriously, wtf?!? I took it home again and waited till the next morning to start it. Ripped my arm off again. So I reached out to knobby. He replied with, "take the pump off and see what happens." Well wouldn't you know that engine fired first pull every morning for five straight mornings without taking my arm off. So my problem wasn't the engine at all. It was union of the lovejoys/spider. I had to use four washers in between the engine and pump to space the lovejoys correctly. Well it turns out I used three grade 8 washers and one zinc washer. The zinc washer was pretty thin compared to the grade 8 ones. This slight difference caused just a slight binding issue on first cold start up. Four matching washers and this thing starts first pull, zero kickback.
To celebrate I got a few chunks of ash in my driveway to put this new engine to the test. I can't wait!
Knobby57
Peeing outdoors
We want to see photos
Sent from my phone when I should be working
Sent from my phone when I should be working
Maybe I will get a video of the splitter in action.
If true, who says we do not live in a world of small dimensions? I once sanded down a washer 0.0015" thinner in order to fix a pull cord assembly on a Stihl chainsaw that simply would not work and jammed up without that additional machining, small as it was.
Correct. Although these washers you could see the difference. Some if these washers in hardware stores are all over the place in thicknesses. Some 1/4 20 washers are thick, others are paper thin.
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