240 or 320 grit for ball hone or does it really matter???

[bsmith717]

I would like to keep the conjecture out of this thread. Please only comments from those that have done this either for the good or the bad.

I’m swapping in a 262 piston and caber ring into a lightly used 261 I acquired.

Im Not even sure this is necessary as there is no glazing. I just don’t want to half step when doing this and if I have to buy another tool well so be it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Plated cylinders do not need crosshatching, deglazing yes, most times just hand sanding with 320 grit wet n dry is enough, many more just clean up the cylinder with Maroon Scotchbrite.

 

[Chevboy0167]

https://blog.brushresearch.com/how-to-choose-the-right-flex-hone-for-smaller-diameter-cylinders

 

[bsmith717]

Plated cylinders do not need crosshatching, deglazing yes, most times just hand sanding with 320 grit wet n dry is enough, many more just clean up the cylinder with Maroon Scotchbrite.

It is a factory cylinder with very little use on it. My main reason for thinking about a re-gone was that I’ve read the caber rings are very hard and take some time to seat in. I use my saws for fun, it’s my hobby so years would have to go by before 10 tanks of fuel would go through the saw.

 

[SteveSr]

https://blog.brushresearch.com/how-to-choose-the-right-flex-hone-for-smaller-diameter-cylinders

I am not sure that this is relevant to the Nikasil and hard chrome plated cylinders that are found in chainsaws and other OPE.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

I’ve ball honed MANY plated chainsaw cylinders. 240 grid aluminum oxide I found to be a bit aggressive but ok as long as you don’t over do it. Here in the last year or so I’ve been switching to 400 grit aluminum oxide. Not as aggressive but leaves a nice light texture which aides in break-in of the rings. The idea here is to deglaze the cylinder, not finish to a desired internal diameter. Any transfer needs to be removed prior to running a ball hone. And use plenty of lubricant.

 

[bsmith717]

I’ve ball honed MANY plated chainsaw cylinders. 240 grid aluminum oxide I found to be a bit aggressive but ok as long as you don’t over do it. Here in the last year or so I’ve been switching to 400 grit aluminum oxide. Not as aggressive but leaves a nice light texture which aides in break-in

It makes sense. The less abrasive grit gives you more of a margin of error.

https://blog.brushresearch.com/how-to-choose-the-right-flex-hone-for-smaller-diameter-cylinders

That’s a great little write up. I think more people need to read that. It may help stop the spread of crap info.

I’ve ball honed MANY plated chainsaw cylinders. 240 grid aluminum oxide I found to be a bit aggressive but ok as long as you don’t over do it. Here in the last year or so I’ve been switching to 400 grit aluminum oxide. Not as aggressive but leaves a nice light texture which aides in break-in of the rings. The idea here is to deglaze the cylinder, not finish to a desired internal diameter. Any transfer needs to be removed prior to running a ball hone. And use plenty of lubricant

Exactly. I reckon I need to take the motor apart to inspect the cylinder wall.

 

[Agrarian]

I stopped using ball hones due to the possibility of affecting the plating at the edge of any port or transfer. Now I just use the Head Monkey's approach to cleaning the cylinders, finishing with a quick application of a maroon Scotchbrite pad.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Just got to go with what you prefer. Old thread where we talked about this and what we liked and choose. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stickys-of-how-to-basics/honing-ball-hone-etc/

DO NOT USE for transfer removal. Seen some idiots try that crap. No short cuts.

Just quick short crosshatching both ways that also deglaze .

I went with 240 Grit Aluminum Oxide. Copy paste info = This type is recommended for cylinder coatings such as chrome and Nikasil.
Used to lightly surface the bore of your cylinder, creating a cross hatch of scratches that helps your rings seat tightly to increase compression. They also smooth over imperfections around intake and exhaust ports.


Over this 320 Grit Silicon Carbide. " " " ". This type of hone works on all surfaces including cast iron cylinders.

 

[heimannm]

I often use a ball hone at relatively low RPM to give a cylinder a quick clean up in the parts washer with the solvent running through it. I have done iron bore, chrome plated, and Nikasil cylinder with no ill effects so far. I think my ball hones are all aluminum oxide but I've had them all quite a while and don't remember the details.

Mark

 

[Mad Professor]

Wet/dry paper, some soapy water, and your fingers is all you need.

 

[guym3]

Got several different size ball hones. about half 240 and half 320. Don't find a huge difference, just use the 240 for less time. After heavy grinding of the exhaust and upper transfers, even after using a diamond ball to chamfer the edges, I like the finish from a hone. And also as others have said, helps the hard caber rings to bed in tightly. Never had any issues with damage from them.

 

[stihltech]

You MUST deglaze the cylinder for rings to seat in any motor. Basic engine work. Use your head. Not honing-deglazing.

 

[bsmith717]

Wet/dry paper, some soapy water, and your fingers is all you need.

I can see that roughing the surface but it will not give you crosshatching.

Unless you’re talking about doing that to get rid of any aluminum piston transfer of course. I’ll bet that’s what you were referring to.

 

[bsmith717]

You MUST deglaze the cylinder for rings to seat in any motor. Basic engine work. Use your head. Not honing-deglazing.

When you say de-glaze what are you talking about specifically? Are you referring to when you remove transferred aluminum via sandpaper/lube or muriatic acid? This would be first priority for certain.

From what I’ve found on other forums/tech writeups/youtube/this very thread, I’m under the impression that anytime you re-ring/re-ring & piston a good honing with the ball/flex hone is in order.

 

[stihltech]

Anything to put a slight crosshatch on the bore. Not removing transfer. Not oversizing. Cleaning done before deglazing. If you can see the crosshatch, good enough.
I use a spring loaded small engine hone (named wrong, but nobody knows what a deglazer is). Nothing wrong with whatever you use, just use your head and restraint. 3 or 4 ups and downs is usually enough.