262XP clutch needle bearing, spanner for clutch removal

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Got the socket from Al (dr255) and it took all of 30 seconds to get the clutch off. Al -- thank you! I'll return the favor down the road my friend.

Here's some pictures -- I plan to get a new clutch drum and needle bearing (clutch drum has oregon number on it will see what I can find)
View attachment 476290
I believe the washer on the oil pump is on upside-down. The spiral pattern is supposed to be on the inside not outside. This one has been worn almost flat from the clutch drum. To fix it you will need to remove the oil pump since it is essentially pressed onto the crankshaft. For it to be effective again, you should replace it with one that is not worn down but since these are NLA from the dealer, you will have to get one from someone here or eBay.
 
In this exploded parts view it looks like the inner "ring" of the 3 rings on that oil pump protector washer is protruding out towards the rim sprocket and clutch as opposed to towards the oil pump. Would flipping it over leave the oil pump exposed? The inner ring would have to be below the surface of the oil pump for the outer ring to seal... I'm a bit confused.

I know you've done a lot of 262's and I'm sure you know better than me. This saw was torn down and re-assembled at Randy's shop in Jamestown, TN including crank bearings getting replaced thus this would have been apart to remove the crank right? I'm thinking Randy can assemble these blindfolded... Not trying to throw Randy or anyone under the bus here, just surprised it would be installed backwards when he's done so many of these.

Anyone have a clear picture of how this thing is supposed to be installed? The 3-d of the picture below it really looks to me like the inner ring is protruding towards the rim sprocket and clutch like it does on my saw... confused. But thanks for the info. Looks fairly easy to get one, but have no idea how to remove it and press in a new one properly etc. I'm new to this but want to learn.

clutch_washer.png
 
In this exploded parts view it looks like the inner "ring" of the 3 rings on that oil pump protector washer is protruding out towards the rim sprocket and clutch as opposed to towards the oil pump. Would flipping it over leave the oil pump exposed? The inner ring would have to be below the surface of the oil pump for the outer ring to seal... I'm a bit confused.

I know you've done a lot of 262's and I'm sure you know better than me. This saw was torn down and re-assembled at Randy's shop in Jamestown, TN including crank bearings getting replaced thus this would have been apart to remove the crank right? I'm thinking Randy can assemble these blindfolded... Not trying to throw Randy or anyone under the bus here, just surprised it would be installed backwards when he's done so many of these.

Anyone have a clear picture of how this thing is supposed to be installed? The 3-d of the picture below it really looks to me like the inner ring is protruding towards the rim sprocket and clutch like it does on my saw... confused. But thanks for the info. Looks fairly easy to get one, but have no idea how to remove it and press in a new one properly etc. I'm new to this but want to learn.

View attachment 476523
As you look at that diagram, The crankcase would be in the foreground and the clutch shoes would be in the background. That means that the spiralled sided of the washer is closest to the crankcase and the smooth side is against the rim sprocket. This is the way I have found it in every 262 that I have ever worked on. What is not shown on the diagram is the fact that the washer is smooth on one side and has a spiral cut into it on the other side. There is no "inner ring", it is simply a design embossed into the washer. Yours has the smooth side towards the crankcase. Flipping it over does not expose the pump any more than it is now - it is a single washer.

The pump would have been removed to install new crank bearings but mistakes happen.
 
Ahh -- ok that's how I'm confused. I've never seen the "other side" of that washer. It's spiraled on the side you can see in the exploded view, but smooth on the other side (which I've never seen!) and thus yes the only side that is spiraled goes against the crankcase. Mine the spiraled is towards the rim sprocket and clutch which is indeed backwards.

I'll order one from ebay unless you guys have one I can buy from you since mine is already mamed on the spiraled side from clutch drum abuse.
Then I'm curious what's the easiest way to get it off and install a new one. I'll watch Mattyo's video again looks like I may need to remove the oiler to get that to pop out.

I knew you were right -- just needed the extra info and thanks for the explanation.

I PM'd Randy and already know it's likely backwards... no worries Randy I'll get it back the way it belongs.

Seems the plastic worm gear that isn't driven all the time is the way to go as an upgrade. I guess I'll dive into the oiler this weekend or some evening this week if I have time. No rush -- it's winter time and the more snow we get the less cutting that goes on!

Thanks again for the info. You guys are a Godsend with these saws.
 
ok, so its a mistake... but how big of a mistake? what are the actual consequences here?

Looks like the drum was rubbing on the "inner ring" of that washer for a while... no big deal.

The crank is perfect and the other parts involved are going to be replaced -- needle bearing, drum, I'll have a new rim sprocket but the old one is fine new from November so I'll have a spare, and new oiler protector washer which is what I think that part is called.

Lots of those washers available and an excuse for me to dive in a little further on this over the weekend.

I'll be watching your video again -- what a great resource that is. Thanks for doing it!

I also am not in a hurry -- with the snow and cold not a lot of weekend warrior treework with my brother. Pita with snow on the ground etc. will likely pickup that in the spring.
 
ok, so its a mistake... but how big of a mistake? what are the actual consequences here?
I never really understood what the spirals do - the best I could come up with is that any debris that gets behind the pump is flung off. If you ever take a pump off that has been on there 20 years, it is caked solid between the pump and crankcase with the exception of the actual worm gear / oil pump geared shaft - that area remains absolutely clean. So my theory is that the spiral is responsible for that. So in my mind, it is well worth fixing if it means the pump will not fail. Husky would not go to the expense of a custom washer if it did not serve a very good purpose.

If someone has the real poop what the spirals do, I would greatly appreciate knowing.
 
If u were building a saw for myself I would switch to the plastic worm gear....easier to maintain and pull apart later...and less likely to ruin the oiler.
Agreed, I convert all the saws that have crankshaft driven pumps to clutch driven pumps - I don't like the oil puddles in the woods. As for ruining the oiler, I guess it could happen with the brass gear but in all the 261's and 262's I dealt with, I have never seen a destroyed oil pump. I've seen quite a few that have worn gears but they were still working well.
 
Looks like 94 and newer this spiral washer and brass pressed on gear is replaced with and all-in-one part that is plastic worm gear so clutch drives the oiler.
Anyone have the part number for that they could share? Looks like that is probably what I really want.

EDIT: I think I answered my own question -- from the IPLs out there I think it's this:

503642901

It's called the "worm wheel" and goes in place of the spiral washer and I'm assuming the brass gear that I've seen removed with a puller in Mattyo's video.

Here's one on ebay -- good picture:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-Oil-Oiler-Worm-Wheel-Gear-503642901-254-257-262-/150487900107

Would appreciate if you guys could confirm this before I order one. Thanks again.
 
Looks like the clutch drum needs to have extra "teeth" to drive the plastic worm gear. The one I already ordered doesn't have that feature.
Not a big deal -- I can just get a new spiral washer (I'm going to re-inspect mine as I didn't realize it actually makes a spiral to channel the oil or something as Barry said) and if mine doesn't seem wrecked too bad from the clutch rubbing on it I can just turn it around.

If I have to do more to it later I can convert it then. Nice to know there's options.

Thanks once again!
 
Looks like the clutch drum needs to have extra "teeth" to drive the plastic worm gear. The one I already ordered doesn't have that feature.
Not a big deal -- I can just get a new spiral washer (I'm going to re-inspect mine as I didn't realize it actually makes a spiral to channel the oil or something as Barry said) and if mine doesn't seem wrecked too bad from the clutch rubbing on it I can just turn it around.

If I have to do more to it later I can convert it then. Nice to know there's options.

Thanks once again!
the spiral washer doesnt do that much anyway. Turn it around the correct way and use the saw.
 
Just a side note.
If you ever need to exchange the oil pump, you can use oil pump from 254/257/261/262, they are all the same pump.
The only thing you need to keep in memory is that the old 254 pump has a more narrow hole, 19,5mm vs 22,5mm (you can easy modd it). This only count if you convert over to plastic worm gear.

The same count also for 42/242 convertion, oldies have a more narrow hole.
 
nylon rope got hung up on something inside (edge of a port or something) and spun backward and had to pull free and maybe some nylon fragments got left behind -- should I be concerned?
im quite late to the party, but yes this is a concern for sure. it wouldnt take much of that nylon to cause trouble. i would be REALLY sure there is nothing in any of the ports. dont wanna ruin a nice KS cylinder, especially one with bananas onto it.
 
The amount missing was just a a few frays (fuzz) from the end. Very tiny amount if it was abrasive I would be more worried. I think it will be fine. I was more annoyed it was hung up and venting here.. Plus not knowing the original problem... Once I found shattered clutch drum I was much happier.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
abrasiveness is not the issue. melting and smearing and sticking a ring is the issue. It may be fine, probably is, but if it was mine i would try to be as sure as possible that its clean. im the type of guy that would probably pull that cylinder right off if i had any doubts. takes about 7 mins on one of these.
 
Back
Top