262XP Day

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Hey randy, very educational thread, well done. You mentioned way back in the beginning that the 262xp had very good stock timing numbers, making for a factory hotrod. What model do you think had the best stock timing numbers that you've seen? My old 181se runs very strong, would be interested to know how it stacks up. Do you think the 262xp was an all time best, or is there better?
 
A lot of saws have great numbers. The thing is, as the years progress, the numbers tend to change. For instance, the MS660. Back in the days of the first 066s, they had very good timing numbers, but as the years went by, the numbers got terrible.

EPA? I'm not sure really.
 
Thanks randy, i suppose timing numbers are just part of a complex equation as to what makes a strong running 2 stroke. I does seem like some of the older classic saws can outrun their modern equivalents, but then as you say, they didn't have epa breathing down their necks! I've had way too good of luck with my 181 and 298xp to ever give them up anyway!
 
Well...I usually put the junkiest parts on my saws and sell the good stuff hehe... the porting for me is the same no matter what I'm doing with the saw...chassis cut to optimize squish then adjust ports to MM recommendation:bowdown:

Then pray that it starts!

Actually. ..I have an interesting issue with the carb. Got a kit for it....but the pump diaphragm only fits upside down....any issue with this?????
 
Matt have you been cutting the squish as well as milling the case?
On my FIL's 262 I only had .009 with gasket removed without any machine work.
What have you found? You've done 3 or 4 now? Have they been reasonably consistent?
 
Well...there metal on both sides of the diaphragm. ...so as long as the heights match...can't imagine it'll be a problem...one side llike like a button...the other side looks like a wagon wheel. ...I'm gonna try wagon wheel up this am and see if it tunes :)
 
I do not cut squish band....no need to chuck up a cylinder for me...just milling the chassis to get it down to 020 squish seems to be working fine.

Oh
and I retain the gasket

So far the timing numbers even between brands s cylinder is remarkably consistent
Ok I see. So my gasket was .030 which set me at .039.
So you would take .019 off the case to retain gasket.
Cool
 
Well...there metal on both sides of the diaphragm. ...so as long as the heights match...can't imagine it'll be a problem...one side llike like a button...the other side looks like a wagon wheel. ...I'm gonna try wagon wheel up this am and see if it tunes :)
Cool. I'm interested to hear how you make out.
 
Ok I see. So my gasket was .030 which set me at .039.
So you would take .019 off the case to retain gasket.
Cool
Question. Why mill the case if the squish is small enough without gasket? A few different gasket thicknesses hanging around and you would be good.
 
typical gaskets I've found are around .016 and .017 ish.... the stock squish with gasket is .043 so I've seen. so I take off about 22 thou to be safe.

I'm not lookin to race, just want a little extra :)

base gasket delete is likely safe, but worries me a little bit...so I prefer the thought of retaining the gasket...just me.

saw started right up, clutch slipped a bit and wanted to come off, so it wouldn't idle. put the clutch back on a little more firmly and now its fine...cuts nice too. fuel is drained, saw is now part of my collection :)
 
typical gaskets I've found are around .016 and .017 ish.... the stock squish with gasket is .043 so I've seen. so I take off about 22 thou to be safe.

I'm not lookin to race, just want a little extra :)

base gasket delete is likely safe, but worries me a little bit...so I prefer the thought of retaining the gasket...just me.

saw started right up, clutch slipped a bit and wanted to come off, so it wouldn't idle. put the clutch back on a little more firmly and now its fine...cuts nice too. fuel is drained, saw is now part of my collection :)
Sweet! That's the beauty. Many different ways to achieve the same goals!
 
I like playing sleuth with the 262's and this one is interesting. It doesn't have a compression release (early saw) yet the rear handle does not have the storage compartment (later saw) - a combination I have not seen on an all original saw. The chainbrake is metal and looks brand new (later saw unless someone took advantage of the recall). Is this an early (maybe KS) cylinder on a more recent chassis or do you have a new (to me) variant of an original combination?
 
I think this is a KS cylinder....the handle of a later saw is likely correct too...most of my saws are a mishmash... this has a 120 carb and a 3 puck clutch ...if I recall it has a oem piston with new caber...and a new oem chainbrake
 
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