I put an 0.058 chain on it because I put that size bar on. I have never had an 0.058. The cutting teeth look larger on this chain than others, even another 3/8 chain I have with 0.050 guage. Illusion?
You may find the power warrants taking the depths down a hair or two from stock out the gate,
The saw cut OK but not spectacular on it's first tank of gas, and I think it ate more gas than my 288. Power was OK but not spectacular. I wonder:
Should it get stronger after a few tanks of gas?
As I lean it back out will it really pick up?
Could I have messed it up with my porting? I widened intake/exhaust and opened lower transfers just a hair.
Compression is decent with the new ring, old piston and old cylinder but I am not super happy with it. The saw will drop slowly in slow incriments when hanging from the starter cord with 20" bar. I'd rather the compression hold it up.
I put an 0.058 chain on it because I put that size bar on. I have never had an 0.058. The cutting teeth look larger on this chain than others, even another 3/8 chain I have with 0.050 guage. Illusion?
Also, what size wood are you cutting so far? You may not notice its power in wood 12" and under.
Nice!She is back together and runs after the carb re-build, new fuel line, boot for throttle link. After dorking around with getting everything back together, I took the cylinder off again and put things back together as a unit, then slid it all back down onto the case. I had to clean up an refresh the base gasket with a light skim of Motoseal.
Set L and H needles at 1.25 turns out to start. Saw started fine on choke after a few pulls to prime the lines and carb. Set H a turn or so mor richer, blipped throttle a few times, warmed up, then hit full throttle. Saw smoked an choked due to too much H. Backed off H until she 4-stroked and smoked a bit when wide open. Only ran saw about 5 minutes.
Sounds pretty mean. Runs quite well. Loud with that gutted muffler.
Ordered 20" Tsumar bar from a site member, chain and bar here in next few days hopefully, maybe both today.
Next trip will be out to do some cuttin'...wide open.
Hate the pull handle. Too short and square. Doesn't look OEM...not very ergonomic, anyway. May have to sculp that a bit.
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Nice work on the rebuild! Thanks for sharing the pics!
This doesn't fly once it was used some. I personally stuck B pistons in A cylinders. You need to check clearances on the cylinder to make sure it not too loose regardless of the factory stamp. Finding A jugs over the counter is rare. Finding A jugs in NOS on the open market happens even less. B pistons are the norm to find most times. A simple feeler gauge sorts all this out or a bore gauge, snap gauges and a mic also work well.Sounds like you got everything you need. One thing about pistons and cylinders though. You’ll notice on the piston there’s a “A” stamped on top. The cylinder that came off the saw should also have a “A” stamped on the raised portion (top of cylinder) near the spark plug. Those are grade markings. The piston and cylinder must match. In other words, you don’t want to run a “A” piston in a “B” cylinder. This is how they set the clearance (piston to cylinder) from the factory. Reason I bring this up is your gonna want to check that spare cylinder for grade. If it’s A your good. If it’s B or C I’d be looking for a B or C piston to go with it.
Yes I’m aware you can run the next grade up piston in a used cylinder. I measure clearance regardless of grade. I have a early thin ring 266SE, running a C piston in a B cylinder on that particular saw. I’ve done the same with several others in my collection. Kinda funny, I don’t see any of the more popular YouTube saw builders checking anything. Just assemble and off it goes.This doesn't fly once it was used some. I personally stuck B pistons in A cylinders. You need to check clearances on the cylinder to make sure it not too loose regardless of the factory stamp. Finding A jugs over the counter is rare. Finding A jugs in NOS on the open market happens even less. B pistons are the norm to find nost times. A simple feller gauge sorts all this out or a bore gauge, snap gauges and a mic also work well.
My typing is getting pretty bad. Had two missed edits in the last post.Yes I’m aware you can run the next grade up piston in a used cylinder. I measure clearance regardless of grade. I have a early thin ring 266SE, running a C piston in a B cylinder on that particular saw. I’ve done the same with several others in my collection. Kinda funny, I don’t see any of the more popular YouTube saw builders checking anything. Just assemble and off it goes.
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