288xp crankseal

[padjoe]

Hello all, newbe and novice here, recently bought a rebuilt 281/288. Saw has only had 3 tank fulls ran through it and have a question to ask you fine members

Should you be able to turn a clutch side crankseal by hand, the saw was supposedly rebuilt

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hello all, newbe and novice here, recently bought a rebuilt 281/288. Saw has only had 3 tank fulls ran through it and have a question to ask you fine members

Should you be able to turn a clutch side crankseal by hand, the saw was supposedly rebuilt

Crank seals are meant to be stationary, the crank turns inside them but the body of the seal itself is a very tight fit into the crankcase bore.

 

[padjoe]

I was thinking as much but the saw runs fine in all positions

 

[pioneerguy600]

If the steel portion of the seal is turning as you have stated then it will not stay air tight for long, actually it would be leaking air now if a vac or pressure test was done on it.

 

[padjoe]

Crank seals are meant to be stationary, the crank turns inside them but the body of the seal itself is a very tight fit into the crankcase bore.

If the steel portion of the seal is turning as you have stated then it will not stay air tight for long, actually it would be leaking air now if a vac or pressure test was done on it.

Thanks for your help pioneerguy600, I'll order a vacuum/pressure kit later tonight

 

[Squareground3691]

I’d replace with OEM seal ,

 

[padjoe]

Is it as simple as tapping in a new seal after the old seal is out

 

[Squareground3691]

Is it as simple as tapping in a new seal after the old seal is out

Just be sure not to roll the rubber part over the crank lip when installing, the retainer ring needs to be intacted , use a piece of thin plastic or similar to wrap around crank before you install, will prevent the seal from rolling over, there is OEM sleeves to but not necessary,