3/8" LP (picco) VS .325" chain on a 33-50cc saw???

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

777funk

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 10, 2014
Messages
218
Reaction score
71
It seems that many new small saws like to use 0.050" 3/8" LP (picco or pico) chain. Older pro saws tend to use 0.062" 0.325" chain.

Which will cut faster on the same saw? Lets assume a good LP chain (for example Oregon 91VXL OR something better still if it exists) since there are a lot of safety type chains out there.

3/8" means less teeth and less sharpening. LP means shorter bites and thinner kerf. This should give higher saw speeds I'd think. Why waste power with a thicker kerf? I know on my circular saws I like thin kerf if the cut quality doesn't matter. I notice a power increase by thinning the kerf.

For those who've compared good fast chains in each, is it worth switching one way or the other?
 
New stihl 23RS is true 050 chain and is smoking fast.

IMO stihl finally wised up on this 063 325 crap. I hate dealing with it when saws come in.

Stihl 3/8LP is nice chain too in 63PS and 63PS3.

IMO either run 23RS or C33 in 325 or 63PS 63PS3 in 3/8LP

3/8LP compared
Oregon 91 safety 10.96 and 10.90

Oregon 91 full skip spun when hit wood 11.09 and 10.65

Carlton N1 9.28 and 9.06

Stihl 63PS3 7.31 and 7.56

Windsor 50R 10.34 and 9.93

Oregon VXL 10.03 and 9.41
 

Attachments

  • 23rse.jpg
    23rse.jpg
    60.5 KB
  • 23rsc33.jpg
    23rsc33.jpg
    52.8 KB
Wow! Is that a full chisel (round filed) chain?

Are the competitors (Oregon and Carlton) full chisel or semi?
That was all stock chains untouched. Round filed full chisel from factory.

Oregon did not offer full chisel nor Carlton in 2013 when tested. Dont think they do today but not sure.

Just done on a stock poulan 3516 too.
 
What's wrong with the 063 325? Not arguing, just asking, I'm using it on my 036 with 18" bar.

It's slower since it makes a wider kerf. The new .050 .325 tooth may also be slightly narrower, not sure.

A friend of mine bought a 261C a couple of years ago and it came with the 063 .325. I think the shop was just trying to move old bars and chain.
 
I find the 3/8lp better on the smaller 33-45cc saws and .325 better on 50cc.
One perk to 3/8lp is the low cost, you can get oregon or some similar knock off really cheap.
I run 3/8lp on atv trail clearing saws for this reason, you're gonna hit rocks or fence nails in the trees and wreck a chain fairly often doing that type of cutting.
 
Only saw I own with 3/8 LP is my poulan pro 305 and it runs quite well. It was originally set up to run .325 but I didn’t have the correct bar on hand at the time. I run 23RS on a couple 026’s and am really happy with it. Couple pics for views…
IMG_0521.jpegIMG_0344.jpeg
 
You skipped a few options.

Many Husqvarna family saws came OEM with .325 pitch, .050 gauge, narrow kerf chain.

This is sold as Oregon Type 95 (retail packs are ‘G’ or ‘M’);
Husqvarna ‘H’ or ‘Pixel’; Carlton NK; STIHL (is this the 23RS?).

It came on my Husqvarna 353, along with narrow kerf bars, and I like it.

*Note that this is NOT the same as Oregon ‘Nano’ chain, which is also low profile, and better suited for battery powered saws.

Philbert
 
New stihl 23RS is true 050 chain and is smoking fast.

IMO stihl finally wised up on this 063 325 crap. I hate dealing with it when saws come in.

Stihl 3/8LP is nice chain too in 63PS and 63PS3.

IMO either run 23RS or C33 in 325 or 63PS 63PS3 in 3/8LP

3/8LP compared
Oregon 91 safety 10.96 and 10.90

Oregon 91 full skip spun when hit wood 11.09 and 10.65

Carlton N1 9.28 and 9.06

Stihl 63PS3 7.31 and 7.56

Windsor 50R 10.34 and 9.93

Oregon VXL 10.03 and 9.41

Is that pic of cutters 23RS and 63PS?

I run the 63 PM and 63PMX on my small pruning saws and milling saw (066), respectively. Works good on the small saws (020T, 009 40cc), and the milling chain saves kerf, smooth finish, and cuts quick)

For my 026 and 028S saws I thought of trying the 23RS, but those saws all have .063 X .325 16" ES bars and I've got a box full of new 16" 26RS and 26RM chain loops. I can't justify switching due to that.

Is the 23RS that much better?
 
Is that pic of cutters 23RS and 63PS?

I run the 63 PM and 63PMX on my small pruning saws and milling saw (066), respectively. Works good on the small saws (020T, 009 40cc), and the milling chain saves kerf, smooth finish, and cuts quick)

For my 026 and 028S saws I thought of trying the 23RS, but those saws all have .063 X .325 16" ES bars and I've got a box full of new 16" 26RS and 26RM chain loops. I can't justify switching due to that.

Is the 23RS that much better?
23RS

23RS filed back further on right. True 050. C33 on left side new. 058 at top of dl stepped 050.

Some day when you run out switch and see. I dont care one way or another myself.

I use everything and dont listen to folks. I try myself and make up my own mind. Heck even clone chains etc not as bad as some think. 3 loops for cost of 1.
 

Attachments

  • 23rse.jpg
    23rse.jpg
    60.5 KB
  • 23rsc33.jpg
    23rsc33.jpg
    52.8 KB
  • ftchain058.jpg
    ftchain058.jpg
    329.6 KB
What's wrong with the 063 325? Not arguing, just asking, I'm using it on my 036 with 18" bar.
Why run it when better options IMHO.

036 to me 3/8 saw.

Only time I run 063 is 3/8 32" up or 404.

Stihl just doing their BS 063 325 thing IMO for sells.
 

Attachments

  • s036w.jpg
    s036w.jpg
    57.3 KB
63PS and 63PS3 has the tiny bumper. Full chisel 3/8LP.

I all use since came out. PS3 in 2011 and 63PS 2013. Then now I have been trying the Farmertec copy of it and it is perfect too. JMO About 20% of cost.

Was using it before local dealers could even get it. :cheers:
 

Attachments

  • s63ps.jpg
    s63ps.jpg
    8.8 KB
  • ftchainpicco.jpeg
    ftchainpicco.jpeg
    79.9 KB
23RS

23RS filed back further on right. True 050. C33 on left side new. 058 at top of dl stepped 050.

Some day when you run out switch and see. I dont care one way or another myself.

I use everything and dont listen to folks. I try myself and make up my own mind. Heck even clone chains etc not as bad as some think. 3 loops for cost of 1.

So cutter on left is regular 3/8 chisel? C33 = ? Same as 33RS?
 
3/8" means less teeth and less sharpening. LP means shorter bites and thinner kerf. This should give higher saw speeds
Lp to me means low profile. the center of the rivet is closer to the bar, the cutter itself is closer to the bar. I don't have a comment about shorter bites, the cutter is supposedly doing like a dolphin. For the same drive sprocket tooth count the 3/8 is going faster. A lot if not most 35 or so cc saws use a 6 tooth drive.
 
What's wrong with the 063 325? Not arguing, just asking, I'm using it on my 036 with 18" bar.
The guy in post 1 wants fastest That is essentially full sized .325. It makes for bigger chips hence better if stuff moves and pinches, but there is a limit to that as well. Say the Nk stuff is 85% of full sized. Stihl is a little vague but in Oregon full sized 20,21,23 whatever the 0.063 or 1.6mm one is is for up to 62cc. Nk to 55cc.
 
Back
Top